Breezy_Pete

Your rear brakes are described as C38HR Lucas, so I'd be confident in saying 38mm piston diameter. Seal kit has part number 8D0698671, which has been superseded by 2G0698671.

Check cabin fuse #14. Fuel pump relay is in position 4 (top row 4th from left) of relay holder, ECU relay in position 15 (bottom row, furthest right). The lack of ECU comms makes me think fuse 14, or ECU relay problems,

Find that plug/socket pair near the gearbox. Find damaged wire, repair it,

I will try to find which relay is associated with your engine ECU. The one near battery is for glow plugs.

I think the DF wire has since broken. Doesn't really seem to affect much (except on cars with ASR/ASR warning light). It's an "information wire" to the engine ECU, not a "control wire" from ECU. Most people don't believe this.

Ah! your last photo is alternator regulator/brushpack. Often replaced unnecessarily after these wiring breaks cause alternator faults.

Apart from the photo of the fault codes, I can't really understand what the others are showing. The interconnect at the gearbox bracket may look like this:

Alternator wires go via a black two-way plug/socket interconnect on a bracket in front of the gearbox. That's usually where they get damaged. Blue wire breakage causes battery light to not work, and problems with alternator boot-up. Other wire breaking causes DF fault, and ASR warning light after 10 mins running, on cars with ASR.

I suspect you will have to get much more brave.

Message me the VIN and I'll see what I can find out. 🙂

😆 The right pads for some vehicle, yep. Probably not yours though.

CBZA/CBZB engine with chain timing, I'd bet.

Release bearing, I think.

Where I'd start is by looking at the connections to the fuse of, and the wiring to the ABS return flow pump. If you share your VIN with me in a private message I can probably research this a little for you. Whereabouts in the world are you?

£127.50 + VAT for the 5J0 part at a Skoda parts counter, may make you keener to try the pattern parts...

Here you go. Your connected thing (the PCV valve as it turns out) has part number 03D103765F, not 030... The hose, plus connecting bits are item 37, part number and superseding one on the right (both starting 03D). Rather eye-watering on the price front, especially as these are before VAT. See if LLL parts can get it cheaper than dealerships, they often can. Or scrapyard hunting but watch out for ones with holes in the rubber connecty bits items 38, from oil-related degradation. Or just find some fuel hose of the right inside diameter to fit over the places it has to go. That might be about a quid. Might need to make a much bigger loop though, or it might collapse under vacuum, if it were close to being kinked.

OK, so its a 1.2 HTP engine? If you message me the VIN, I can most easily look up the hose part number for you.

Do you mean the loopy one, labelled output hose here? Or the one right behind that, or in front/through it? Seems unlikely cos that doesn't go to the purge valve, but your red ring contains about 5 hoses.

6Y0 839 015A, superseded by 5J0 839 015

Don't bother with the oil change until this situation is resolved. It won't/can't help.

Check spark plug condition. If all OK, refit but swap coilpack that was in cylinder 3 with one of the other two. See if misfire moves to that cylinder. If it does, replace that coilpack, if it doesn't, compression test time. 6-valve or 12-valve HTP?

There's no such thing as an 'undoing torque' value in my experience. You will have to keep increasing until they come out, or shear off.

They are all shown as ignition switched.

Quite high on axle stands was adequate. Not comfortable though. The image I did find of the crank showed that I also removed the right side driveshaft. Not sure if that was essential, or just recommended.

Sorry, a very important message came in just as I was about to upload image!