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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. The suffix G or J might well work on cars with only two/front electric windows, but obviously an F or H won't do all four on a car that has them.
  2. Yes, you could possibly swap the right-angled connector part and straight part between original and replacement, if the loom won't reach, or the door card doesn't have the clearance behind it. They come off quite easily. I think they'd be interchangeable, can't find a straight one to try at the moment. I'm not sure what the QR code might tell you, try decoding it and see what it says?
  3. For a mk2 Fabia (or Roomster) for any problem of door-mounted electrics, the first thing to investigate should always be the wiring in the rubber boot between A-pillar and door, both sides. Only after ruling out broken wires should you look at any other component. There is also a fuse, #11, that should be checked, in addition to the two more obvious ones.
  4. Google images helps. 6Q2959802A is an earlier CAN-based variant with 3 separate connectors. -F and -H are both LIN-based, single 16-way connector types for cars with front electric windows only, but one connector is at a different angle to the other. Depending on loom length and clearance/space behind the door card, these might be interchangeable. Suffix -G and -J are for cars with all four windows electric, again with different angles of the 16-way connectors. Best to buy a perfectly matching part number.
  5. Check the two wires that go to the compressor at a brown plug/socket pair on a bracket near the starter motor. You may find one of them broken, possibly. Are you sure the compressor pulley is actually turning the shaft?
  6. Is the A/C actually working, or not?
  7. As long as the flap isn't stuck in the recirculation position, this really isn't worth attempting to repair. You have a 1.2 HTP engine, no TSIs in mk1 Fabias from factory.
  8. Yes, that's what I'm trying to guide you towards looking for. Just look for such a break, you won't find it online. If the passenger side unit doesn't get communication within those 10 mins from being powered up, it shuts down again. If it does get chatting to the driver's side one, it stays awake for as long as the driver's side one is awake. Which is whenever ignition is on (and for 10 mins after it is turned off, or until a door is opened, whichever comes first).
  9. Same applies with the grey/white wire, just comes from the 16-way connector at each motor. Look in the boots at the A-pillars for broken wires, both sides.
  10. Can you just confirm which motor type you have, 6Y....part number, or 6Q...? The right angle connector mentioned above suggests the latter, I think, in which case my reference to 8-way connectors at the motors is wrong.
  11. You may well find that it has lost comms with the master unit on the drivers side door. There's a 1-wire data link between the two motor modules (and nothing else) that is vulnerable to wire breakage at either A-pillar connector. It's a grey/white wire from pin 3 of each 8-way connector at the motors, via pin 5 at the 28-way A-pillar connections.
  12. This may help with understanding the circuits: CFD explanations.pdf
  13. Numbers in rectangular boxes show the 'current track' number where that wire continues. 'Current track' numbers run along the bottom of each page of the wiring diagrams, not visible in that screenshot of @UrbanPanzer's. Generally they are to/from different pages, but are sometimes within the same page, to avoid having wires crossing others in the representation.
  14. Yeah, that's what I was getting at. Just wondered if the clutch had been done, as it may as well have been while GB was off, unless fairly recent.
  15. Take it back to whoever replaced the cylinder and allow them to finish the job that you have paid them for. Master or slave cylinder? New clutch too if the latter?
  16. Will just be condensation caused during those recent short trips. Irrelevant.
  17. Lots of short journeys?
  18. Yes, two sizes for fronts in the parts catalogue, only one for the rears. I don't know what parameters Skoda/VW use to decide on sizing. Mass of vehicle, and top speed would be logical, but there may well be other factors. Lots of models have more variants than this. The first character in each of those PR codes is a numeral one, not a letter I, by the way. Even when build options stickers were put in Skodas, the front brake PR code was rarely, if ever, present among them.
  19. Dunno, and dunno. Where did you order these items? Your discs should match genuine part number 2Q0 615 301H, to suit PR codes 1ZE, 1ZS. Pads are 2Q0 698 151Q.
  20. Smartphone with front camera selected may be quite handy for looking up at stuff?
  21. OBD, not USB, but owners manual might be worth a look. "Diagnostic socket" would probably be its description.
  22. Yes, but watch out for rustiness in the heads, potentially causing non-full-depth bit insertion and head damage/rounding. Tx30 I think.
  23. Everyone has every part number. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB

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