Breezy_Pete

Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel pressure sensor and see if there's any fuel inside the connector. That might be a giveaway for a failing sensor.

It's a distinct possibility, but always best to gather evidence rather than making guesses.

If you scroll down this page, the included screws are described individually. You may be able to figure out which it is. VAG 3G5898803 1 set securing bolts Audi, Seat, Škoda and VW genuine OEM part kit (oemwolf.com)

Check cam correlation via covers on gearbox end of cam carrier. Slots in ends of cams must be parallel to one another and parallel to head gasket when cylinder 1 is at TDC.

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Pity, but looks like these guys have a couple: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334979745032

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Parts catalogue shows all three aluminium pipes plus a few other bits as a single replacement entity, 03G 130 308 N at £156 + VAT in UK, so I would imagine you would prefer to find a secondhand single pipe in a scrapyard? I know that I would. No part number shown for just the coolant pipe (other two are fuel). Image of the assy here: Fuel Line Škoda 03G130308N (skoda-parts.com)

Car and engine details? VIN would be best.

Should be 5Q0 598 611, assuming you mean the bearing/hub assy, not the stub axle. Should get the bolt and cap included in that part number.

Might just be the lighting or angle of the photo but am I seeing broken wires in the last pic, right where they come out of connector?

Original Mini was my first car. Much less cared-for than yours.

Yes, but look again at my post from an hour ago. There's close up pics and instructions.

Oil pump, chain/tensioner stuff here: LLLParts

This thread, especially the linked page of it, may be relevant, especially if your car like almost all mk1s has had leaky rear doors. ABS Warning light - Page 3 - Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007) - BRISKODA Unexpected find in the wiring department.

@Bo67 can you work out where on the engine that last post's images are showing?

You make that sound like a cheap and easy fix. Capacity of (any) car park so adjusted would be massively reduced though.

That linked thread was about cam sensor, not crank sensor. You were bang on the money on Friday @inspectorman. That ebay picture is showing item 16 here, which is at the gearbox end of engine/crankshaft. LLLParts So OP should be looking at gearbox end of engine, close to clutch bellhousing. I think back right corner of engine low down on block as you look into the engine bay. Edit, or maybe at front near oil cooler? If that's what this is showing?

e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323974769047 Watch out for ones with similar but different part numbers coming up on ebay search

Found it for you, housing is 1J0 973 702. Wires with crimped pins both ends to fit it are part number 000 979 131 E, but I think you'll find ebay listings with wires pre-fitted.

There will be a 9-character part number on the connector housing. Put that in ebay search box and hope for results including wire-tailed connectors.

Thought it rang a bell, have a look here: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/oil-pressure-switches-but-mechanically-fine.292246/

Do you know your engine code? I tend to view images in ebay listings of spare engines of same code when trying to spot such things.

150Nm + 180° in the official manual. Difficult without help on the counterhold tool.

2, 3 get alignment checked, toe probably slightly out. 1 normal. 4 brake harder from time to time when no-one is close behind, should improve appearance of discs.