Breezy_Pete

I think those two sentences suggest you are owed a replacement or refund.

Ask ctek if it's not in the user manual.

It's true that deep discharge is bad for car batteries. Sometimes they recover OK, sometimes not. Your new monitoring device puts you in a great position to avoid any recurrence. Maybe set a reminder to check what it's saying once a week.

OK, yes, although EFB/AGM types tend to be a little higher than that, and than conventional batts when fully charged and unconnected to anything (open circuit). Which is yours? (It's likely to say EFB or AGM on the top). Has it been giving any trouble? Worth noting that the car's inbuilt charging system does not maintain 100% charge levels deliberately, to avoid potential overcharge issues.

Hello and welcome.

Thought so. Can't tell much remotely whilst charger is doing stuff.

When was the charger disconnected? No point looking at voltage within less than a couple of hours of disconnection.

In that case it would be fine for me with it mounted where you have it. @J.R. I doubt very much that there's a diode en route to your lighter socket, more likely inaccuracy of the LED meter. Verify against something less cheap.

No, there has never been a significant problem here. Red oil pressure warning lights are a different story

Yes. Top up a little and relax.

If I do get one I may extend the wires and mount it in the cabin, as the Bluetooth range will probably be better when not in a closed engine bay. I'll be interested to hear how close you need to be with your phone to get data.

You may well find that the oil level is higher when oil is at operating temperature. The thermal expansion of the oil more than compensates for the 'wetness' of some of the surfaces higher up the engine just after it has been running. Oil at operating temperature flows very easily and drain holes from head to sump are large. See what you find, but be careful to always extract and wipe clean dipstick before re-inserting to get the reading. You will get a false result otherwise.

An LED voltmeter will take many more mA than the 1 that this claims to. Might add one to my Amazon wishlist for my spare car.

Is there enough thread to just fit the terminal on top of existing nut and then add another nut? Photos would help us understand the problem.

I may be able to look up which oil your car is supposed to have via the VIN if you'd like me to try (Private message it if you like).

Can you add a photo of that bit of the manual about only adding 0.5L? Are you sure it doesn't say 504 00 there? I would expect the right spec for your car to be 508 00, I think. Relax, it doesn't look even below the green area to me?

You could always 'unmodify' it back to how it was before returning it. On such a recent car I'm a bit surprised it isn't configurable via the existing user interface though.

Does your car have the feature where a sustained press on the 'unlock' button of the remote starts to drop all the electric windows (and vice-versa for the lock button if windows are left open after shutting all doors)? If it does, try it and see which windows move/don't If it doesn't have that functionality on the fob, try turning and holding the key in the drivers door lock to try to achieve same. If all windows work, that would strongly implicate a switch fault.

You have correctly identified the coolant temperature sensor, yes. Sep may well be correct about exhaust valve damage, but best to check compression which is relatively quick and easy.

Never seen that at all on any car I've had hands/VCDS on, but maybe newer ones than I have tend to be more affected. Maybe, but I didn't get to a point where I considered anything diagnosed. I think it could well still be the pump/module, or even cabling/connection/fuse??. Hopefully the OP took on board the battery possibility though, before spending on pump replacement. Only just thought of strip fuse. Wonder if it's that nasty, subtle hairline crack 'gotcha'??? Not sure if a 2012 mk2 has that type of strip fuse though*. 🤔 * Parts catalogue suggests it may have. @Fred66 any progress today or was garage shut for weekend? Any chance of close-up photos of the strip fuses if you currently have access to the car and the fault remains unsolved?

Pretty good; I guess the 0.15V is on the positive wire path? Thinner than the earth wire I think, so natural for it to be a bit higher, but could be improved I think. I guess that was all with engine just idling? The fact that full load had same volt drops on the cable paths to battery as half load suggests the alternator was already maxxing out on current at half system load and idle revs, probably. Everything should be good when driving around with higher belt speeds and more current capability from alt. 🙂

I prefer to suggest proving stuff before spending when it's other peoples money.

Check the car data pdf I gave you in PM convo. It said build date Dec 2011 from memory. Do you know when chain and tensioner changed revisions?

So a good plan may be to get the garage to connect a booster pack to the battery, and see if function and comms return.

Your car manufacture date is on your car data pdf (which you have), but all that tells you about engine manufacture date is that it can't be later than that.