Breezy_Pete

@killysprint does your car have radio remote central locking, or just key-operated? The fact that it doesn't work via the fob on the OP's car makes me think it can't be just the driver's door loom, as I think the other doors would still lock/unlock with the fob if it were?

Yep

Photograph the aux belt routing, then take it off and run the engine briefly from cold without it. See if noise is still present. I suspect it may not be. Coolant won't be circulating, so don't run it for more than a minute or two.

Always easier when it's happened to oneself. There is a repair option with an external resistor and no need to replace the fan, if it does turn out to be the fan itself, not everyone's cup of tea though. See: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/404143-radiator-fan-repair-courtesy-of-vortex-here-and-uk-mkiv-forum/

First thing to do is to check the fuse for the low speed fan function. I don't seem to have mk3 Fabia circuit info, but the owners handbook mentions two engine-bay fuses relating to radiator fan, one large one, #1 and a smaller one, #18. the latter would be my best guess at the relevant fuse, but it seems to do other things as well, so I doubt it's blown. If that is OK, you could double-check the low-speed fan function by shorting pins of the radiator thermoswitch loom connector which is usually a few centimetres above the lower radiator hose connection on the rad. I would imagine the pinout is the same as on earlier generations of Fabia, in which case this diagram will tell you what to do: Check that the wire going to pin 1 is brown, before proceeding to link 1 & 2, which should bring on the fan at low speed, if working. There is a slight possibility that the fan control unit is to blame, rather than the fan itself, but I think it's very unlikely. It's not only the temperature of the engine coolant that can trigger fan activity, the pressure level of the A/C refrigerant is also monitored whenever it's switched on. Generally, unless ambient temps are extremely high, running the A/C will bring the fan on at low speed only, but if that fails, the pressure will continue to rise until the threshold for full speed fan activity is breached. That's what I think you are currently experiencing.

I think your radiator fan has a broken low speed. I can take you through a test using a wire link, once I've finished my sausages and mash.

Does it not happen if you switch off the air conditioning?

I'd expect VCDS Lite, the freeware version, to work on a 2006 Roomster, and to do those things, if you have a suitable KKL cable and a laptop to put the software on. Not sure about OBD11, sorry.

It's possible, but I would want to be sure that the problem isn't residual from the loom change before spending anything on parts. Do you have written info on what new loom part number was fitted, and can you share the vehicle VIN with me (by PM if preferred) so I can cross-check what should be there, please? There are several loom variants.

Check fuse 45 in the cabin fusebox. (15 Amp rated)

Having looked again at your photos on a big screen, and with judicious enlargement, two things are apparent. JR is quite right about the oil contamination being widespread enough to be affecting the slip-ring to carbon brush connections, thus cleaning those areas up may be all that's required. If you do opt to replace it instead, the part number to match is also conveniently just visible, 03D903025J. They are generally very reliable and long lasting, so secondhand genuine from ebay are probably often better value than new aftermarket copies.

Never thought of that 👍

Under-tightening with consequent movement in the joint and either self-removal or fatigue failure of the screws makes the most sense.

Not really relevant to CO2 emissions and climate change, 'just' particulates and NOx respectively, the human/other animal killers.

It is the oil filter housing, but you can relax on the cambelt issue, your engine has a chain instead, inside the big alloy casing just behind the filter. It may be worth checking and replacing the o-ring that seals the cap part, shown as item 15 here LLLParts. Usually supplied with the filter element, item 14, so if a service is anywhere near due, it may be pragmatic to change filter and oil while at it. The marking on the cap is odd, and ambiguous, appearing to say 255Nm or 25.5Nm. The former is unachievable but may well cause problems if it's attempted, the latter is a sensible torque magnitude but weirdly precise. In practice, as the o-ring is acting as a piston seal rather than a face seal, the torque is largely irrelevant, and hand tight plus a 'nip-up' will be fine. Edit, be sure to protect the alternator from further spillage with absorbent rags if you do undo the cap!

A press is a good way to destroy this (Gen2) type of bearing/hub combination during fitment. That's why these fitting kits exist, so that you can push on the outer, rather than the inner which you would be if the press were applied to the hub part. Fortunately your Yeti uses bolt-in front bearing assemblies, so no such faffing about is required, these being the original fitment and current, supersession part numbers: GENUINE VW AUDI SEAT SKODA FRONT WHEEL BEARING 3 STUD 1K0498621 5K0498621A -NEW | eBay

Now say a prayer to your preferred deity that it isn't/wasn't the other side gone again! Been there, done that on a Mk2 Golf

Sure, will send you a Private Message shortly.

That valve (item 4 in the image) is the turbo vane control actuator, I think. Any vac hose that is (undeliberately) open to the air like the broken off one can potentially affect the available vacuum for controlling other things.

Here's the diagram for BSW engine code:

The trick to removing vac pipes is to push them, rather than pull them. So get a flat screwdriver in between the end and the flat plastic face and twist to push the end away. Go at it from a few angles and it should start to move.

Shouldn't need tracking. Not at all surprised that breaker bar was needed. Would be very surprised if it wasn't really.

It should all come out as one I think, but yes, clean up should be very thorough, and grease will help minimise the struggle to wind the new one in. Use loads of grease on the threads of the big bolt of the removal tool set too.

Not essential unless worn to less than min thickness, but probably worth doing them, parts cost is usually pretty low.

Yes, I believe so. Hope so, if I have the same tool and stubborn rusted-in sensor and have to do a bearing.