Breezy_Pete

Can't mark it up just now, but at the ends of the long bit!

Near the ends of the transverse part of the rear beam.

I think the Citigo compressor may have a clutch, judging by ebay pics of what I think your compressor part number probably is (1S0820803B). That is pretty unusual for modern Skodas though, most have instead a solenoid valve that varies the displacement of the pump from some minimal figure of say 4% up to max. Not sure how to go about fault-finding, but the relay associated with the compressor is in position 10 of the relay holder in front of your right knee when sitting in RHD driver's seat.

Finish the diagnosis. Chances are high that valves will have been bent if chain has slipped on crank sprocket, so I doubt it's worth repairing. Get quotes for this scenario to help you decide. I think @Crasher may be near or in Nottingham, and might be prepared to give you a ballpark idea.

It is belt driven, but as above, you can't see it without removing covers, see toothed belt; toothed belt guard - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com)

Only if registered, which is $99 to do. See function chart here http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Functions

You can't run the engine with timing cover off, so that aspect of mechanic's plan can't work, I think. And it's hours of work to get it off and on again.

Finish the diagnostics with TDC check before making any assumptions. Chain timing on the HTP engines.

May have happened as you started to crank it over after the hill park-up. Unfortunately the design of the chain tensioner is such that if the engine is rotated backwards, oil can be squeezed out of it, meaning there isn't enough push on the chain guide to ensure that the chain stays engaged on the sprockets.

Good start, but you would also ideally take spark plugs out, rotate engine in running direction until no.1 piston is as high as it can go, then check slots in cams are also now parallel to headgasket, to rule out a a chain jump just on the crankshaft sprocket.

Diagnostic readout will not be as useful as a visual check in this case.

I would suggest that you, or someone on your behalf, checks the cam timing. There are two removable covers at the gearbox end of the camshafts. When removed, these give visibility of some slot features on the ends of the camshafts. They should be parallel to one another, and when cylinder no.1 is at TDC, parallel to the head/block joint. Any departure from this indicates that the timing chain has jumped.

Is it a single cam 60 horsepower 3-cylinder or twin cam 70bhp?

Did you leave it in a forward gear on this steep hill?

Did you slacken off the central adjuster behind the lever inside the cabin? That should be the first step in any drum-related process, and the last adjustment at the end.

Should not require much force at all. If they are like the ones I'm familiar with, the edges have a texture that stops them slipping too easily, but it isn't a deep notching, so a gentle upwards tap should make it move. If the spring is in the way, disconnect it, move the wedge up then reconnect.

Yes, although FS3 calipers is what you really mean, the carriers are built into the wheel bearing housing on your car. 🙂 I have seen your PM, will try to do something about it very soon. 👍

FWD or 4x4? If the latter, straps look to be 1J0201655G, £25.75 + VAT each at dealers. If the former, message me with VIN, there seems to be more than one possibility.

You should be able to see just by looking at the outside face of the caliper with its visible outer springs. Nothing should need disassembling if the springs showing there look like the right hand pad springs in my photo.

Inner and outer pads definitely in correct positions? As per one of your posted images, clips are different. Here's a photo of a pair of non-genuine pads that shows the clip difference clearly. Inner/piston pad on left.

I wouldn't think it's worth doing the belt again yet, personally. Isn't it only the driver's side engine mount that needs to shift? Engine doesn't need to move, does it?

No, the thing at the back edge of the door, behind the regulator panel, that has motor and mechanism that does the locking and unlocking of the door. It's a judgement call whether to replace, if it failed the day after fitting new regulator panel you'd be gutted, especially if re-rivetted on. On the other hand, the present one may last fine.

You could also use 504 00 even if the car isn't set to variable servicing and service it after a year and a half or two, according to usage patterns. Just check the level regularly rather than relying on the (probably not fitted) level/temp sensor. The algorithm that supposedly tells you (on variable servicing) when the oil is worn out is probably pretty unreliable anyhow.

It's not like you to trust VW group techs to do the best for owners' engines!