Breezy_Pete

See title. He's hoping someone answering that description is reading, and may help. If you are not such a person, and don't actually have any further help to offer, perhaps leave him alone?

Thanks Graham. You already know how sad I was to hear about your car. Appreciate your kind comments. Second really nice thing that's happened for me today. Hope you have such a good day soon.

The rear screenwash on the estate comes out of the high-level brake light fitting. May well be disconnected at the firewall below ECU though, probably the most common place for frost expansion to pop it apart. Just pushes back together, but access may be tricky.

Watch all two minutes cos he has a slight memory lapse about which way to pull the latch, but the gist of it is reasonably clear, especially showing the 'push on' movement prior to attempting to release latch

Are you OK now?

Just negative will do perfectly. 1 minute to be sure.

Disconnect and clean up the main engine earth connection, typically attached to top starter motor mounting bolt.

No idea how that passed any sort of vacuum or pressure test prior to refilling, so ought to include refill after repair - looks like an error in their process. If you message me your VIN I may be able to find a price for that pipe, if you're curious.

Does the courtesy light get triggered by front passenger door opening?

Passenger side loom appears to lack the equivalent of the violet/white visible in lower corner of driver's side 28-way. Should be in same position. This is the data connection between window motor modules, I believe. Possibility of wrong loom fitted? Edit, no, that's wrong, sorry. Grey/whites on pin 5 each side are that data line. Can you send me your VIN by private message to facilitate parts identification, please?

Cheap enough here, before delivery costs: Dummy cover satin black 5J2858179E 9B9 | oemVWshop.com

Real preeetty. 🙂

Might be getting past its best, but I'd be rather surprised if it has anything to do with those faults.

ECP's web search by reg number is notoriously bad. Visit in branch or phone them and chat to a human, they have better data available on their screens.

Look on the back of the trim bit, there's almost certainly a part number on it somewhere.

Send me your VIN by PM and I can look up any/all parts that you're considering purchase of. What part number is behind that loom link? Or is just a repair kit, can't really make it out from your screenshot.

Maybe I phrased it poorly Ken; what I was meaning is that you cannot watch pressure numbers via a pressure switch, as the OP seemed to be suggesting when he mentioned "I was checking if an app could check oil pressure for now..." He already changed the 'sensor' so it's not likely to be a problem with debris in the old switch. The only pressure information available from the switch is 'above threshold' and 'below threshold', which the instrument cluster is already using, with engine rpm factored in, to indicate a problem to the driver via the red light. The OP or his partner may well find that changing gear to increase rpm on these hills where the problem seems to show itself will help. Low rpm makes it harder to maintain good oil pressure. That's a temporary workaround though, not a suggested 'fix'. How many km has this car covered, and what exact oil is it currently operating with since last June? If that's unknown, do an immediate oil change using 50400/50700 compliant oil with a high quality filter.

Wiring is pretty simple, pressure switch (F1) earths wire to engine metalwork when 'on' and breaks circuit to pin 27 at cluster 32-way connector when 'off'. 14 way connector in engine bay interfacing the two looms. Seems more likely to be a real pressure issue than an electrical fault to me though, possibly associated with dpf regens or attempted ones. Engine code would be handy to be definitely looking at correct info, as always.

I meant genuine Skoda hose, those all appear to be aftermarket/pattern parts with my non-existent understanding of Greek.

Doubt it's a sensor usually just a switch. No data output just short circuit or open circuit.

6U0121101 was discontinued in 2017 sadly, but you might just get lucky with a new old stock genuine one loitering somewhere, unless that's what yours is already? Pity, cos retail price was only 7.70GBP when available, which seems refreshingly good value.

See what faults return by scanning semi-regularly until one does, or the EPC light reappears. The first engine fault to reappear is likelier to be the true cause, subsequent ones may be 'collateral issues'.

Make a prominent mark on the radiator plastic that will allow regular inspection for any axial movement. I think friction will be your friend here and it won't move unless something dramatic happens like overpressure from head gasket failure.

Often a wiring break adjacent to the cable entry of the connector of switch on gearbox. Worth eyeballing before buying anything.

Up to 10% includes 0, 1, 2 etc. Sadly from what I've heard about the current/latest refrigerant, it's not only much more expensive but also leaks more easily! But not as damaging to the atmosphere... Just your wallet. Not sure if car under discussion uses this or older version.