Breezy_Pete

It's probably worthwhile to research how easy it is to remove the entire door, for vastly improved access. On a mk1 It's really surprising how quick and easy it is to do this.

I'm sure lots of folks will be eager to test this theory!

. Sorry, not up to solving this at the moment.

OK, fair enough. I find that very often when people say 'fuses checked' it turns out later that they hadn't checked the right one, so I like to refer to specific ones, and give a location guide because fusebox diagrams are often generic for LHD and RHD cars, and lead to misunderstandings of the numbering. Edited to remove suggestion that doesn't make sense now I think about it.

Fuse 34 checked? Leftmost column, fourth from top, 5 Amp rated.

I expect just driving the car may clear these fault indications after a short while. Unless one is the Airbag light, which would require VCDS or similar to reset.

Ours goes in Weds. Good luck matey. 🙂

In that case I'd think it probably hasn't got an external EGR valve, judging by the lack of any such diagram title here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/CIT/727/1 Not sure what that manifold hole is for. Could be coolant as a way of applying a bit of warmth to the throttle body area above, to prevent potential icing?

Yes, this. Which car and which engine? The linked valve and thread location suggests not the one in your profile.

https://youtu.be/_uTZWaJU6ho Interesting, I thought.

👍nice easy fix

Grab a photo of strip fuse no. 6 if you're not sure if it's OK or not. Sometimes the crack is easier to see in an image blown up on a big screen.

When you say all the fuses, does that include the strip fuses and blade fuses in the battery-top fuseholder?

You never answered my question on 27th December about whether this is a car with a DSG gearbox. Is it, or is it manual?

Brown wire is chassis earth, so no voltage is what you should expect.

I don't think vcds will have any visibility of these modules. Bellows wiring breaks are extremely common in the mk2 Fabia, start with visual inspection on both sides.

Fair enough, but he probably just needs one M8 bolt of the right length.

@Carlston that autodoc kit looks completely wrong judging by the picture. Wouldn't trust it at all. And you gave him all the part numbers I had already, except the bolts he actually needed. But still better than sep's effort. 😛

If you do opt for replacement, remove old one(s) then run the pump for a sec before fitting new, in case there's any bits of debris loitering in the last bit of the pipework.

That diagram is just showing how to remove them, not an adjustment. In my experience replacement every few years is worthwhile. Should only be a few quid each, e.g. Skoda Water Jet 5J0955985 - LLLParts

239mm set-up shown here: floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com) Two different length Allen-head (6mm tool) bolts going through two different length stainless tubes, no rubber/plastic closure caps on this version, unfortunately. Part numbers for all the bits including pads shown there.

The car won't have any of the wiring to work window or lock, I think.

45mm/1.75". You should learn to work these parts catalogues mate, it's not that hard. Just look at the coupling pieces ("dual clip") for the relevant engine code: exhausty bits for a 2001 fabia

Did you try this?

Hello David, yes I could repair yours or send you out an exchange unit, whichever suits you best. I'll send you a private message imminently.