Breezy_Pete

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/498514-anyone-use-vcds-lite-on-their-early-mk2/

Maybe just that the youngest are 16 years old this year? Youngsters today like new and shiny, not solid and reliable, for some reason.

Or use the freeware version VCDS Lite, downloaded from Ross-tech and a £20 third-party cable... I wrote a thread about doing this on pre-facelift mk2s a while back.

I think there will be no advantage from having larger battery.

I think timing covers only have oil seals when they contain timing chains, not belts.

How long between timing belt change and MOT? If they were done on same visit to dealers, they ought to have spotted the leak during the belt change and asked you to approve repair. If there was any time gap then you'll struggle to prove that the leak didn't happen separately, unrelatedly. Also need to be sure which seal is affected, you mention crankshaft and camshaft.

Relay contacts for low speed welded together by the sound of it. How-to thread for wiper relay replacement in Fabia guides section. Soldering reqd. Or replace control unit.

Screw it back on with some self-tappers, make sure they're not stainless so they rust and blend in to be invisible before next MOT. HTH. 😁

Not sure how much this helps? LLLParts

If slackening the XZN screws helps, you could possibly slide some spacing material in from outside rear door edge, if you're lucky?

Yes, was just about to try to find the photo. Posted by @raky a week or two back.

Maybe try going the other way with the outside handle adjustment? Another member recently found that after changing a lock module he had similar strife, eventually blamed on not transferring across or replacing the rubber gasket between lock and aft edge of door. See if loosening the two main lock holding bolts helps? (As an investigation not an ongoing fix).

Was the lock removed with carrier panel, or left behind?

Yes, that's possible, especially if it is 20+ years old. I would suggest getting one that is newer than the one you are replacing. If you message me your VIN I can look up current part number for you. That should enable finding alternative part numbers that are definitely compatible.

I think that's only coding of the steering weight options, which I have done successfully. If the hardware isn't compatible, I think it will not help you. Did the seller of the 8Z0 Audi part tell you that it was compatible with your 6Q0423156AB?

Yeah, I don't see anywhere that lists 8Z0423156F and 6Q0423156AB as being compatible. I think this Audi part is from a much earlier generation (~2001) so may have a different capacitance sensor, there was a change around 2003 in Fabia Mk1 with racks/sensors from before then not being compatible with later ones, even when both are TRW.

I think this will solve your problem. But if the voltage during cranking continues to drop that low, I would say that it may well be time to consider replacement.

I think that 8Z0 part is just not a compatible number, what made you think it was?

Are you sure that replacement doesn't have TRW written on top of the green cap? Koyo has 4-pin angle sensor connector, that looks like a 3-pin?

Koyo system uses hall effect angle sensing; TRW capacitive. Rack, sensor and pump all must match.

See if all parts of the compressor pulley rotate together when A/C enabled.

Talk to you again in June. 😁

Do you hear a hissing noise deep inside the dashboard when switching between A/C active/not? That often gives an audible indication of low refrigerant pressure.

It's a pressure sensor not a switch, and it lives in the alloy pipework just in front of your coolant expansion tank. If you can't spot it, post a pic of that area and I'll highlight it for you.

Doubt it, I was only thinking of the way-lean tailpipe lambda reading.