Breezy_Pete

If you message me your VIN @Kelly_Heroes I can tell you the part number and price for correct new genuine for your car. I bought one a few years back after getting too annoyed at the slow retraction thing, it wasn't too horrific price-wise. North of £100 but not by too much if memory serves.

Yep, that's good, assumingyou mean where his fingers are? The plastic two-way connector also needs to be connected, but I think you said above that this is also true.

Can you see enough of the back end of the alternator to be sure they reconnected the other end of that cable to it? Properly dangerous if it's just floating about loose down there!

I think it has to go back here, doesn't it. Must be some kind of warranty on the parts and labour. Job clearly not 100%.

Found one Daniel. Just doing a little quality control inspection and testing. Message me with a delivery address and I'll reply with payment info once I'm 100% happy with it.

Next time I can get the dog off my lap I will check to see if I have an exchange unit to suit your car. I think I will have. That seems like your best option, cos you could swap that in and out with the current/original unit to see if mine always works and yours doesn't. Just need to be careful with the plastic mountings it attaches to, to avoid breakage if iterating a few times.

This is the full wiring for passenger front window on your car @Beareka. J519 is a central control unit, as is J393. F221 is the lock module on that door. E107 is the switch on that door. Rectangle contained 8 is the feed from the 25Amp fuse. Rectangle containing 22 is the connection across the car to the equivalent wire on driver's window module, the data connection. Circles containing 370 and 373 are earth studs. T28b is the connector at the A-pillar. Note for other readers; there is a different version of this diagram for earlier (and later) cars than the OP's, with a different window motor part. The part number specified above is VIN-searched to be correct for this car, don't assume it's the same for your car.

I added another link with another unit at approx same price from a different seller. Lots of choices. The passenger side ones are 'slaves' to the driver's side ones, and are generally more reliable, but at these prices maybe it's just nice to have one to try. Really the main measurement is to try to prove that 12V exists between the thick red/white wire (permanent 12V supply) and the thick brown wire (earth/chassis) at the connector for the window motor, to be sure it is getting power. There is another wire that is a data connection between the two, the grey/whites I mentioned in an earlier post. You could measure resistance/continuity from one end of each of those wires to the other, by unplugging connectors at motors and A-pillar. Or come to visit Oxford for a day in the car and let me. 😁

6Q1959802E is the part number. Close matches are no good, only exact match will work correctly. For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394560483616 Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115723718748

Nice data. So Skoda info is at fault. They should probably call it 'Driver's window fuse' and 'passenger window fuse' and then the info would stay correct for LHD and RHD builds. I will see if I have a spare RHD left/passenger motor module that you could substitute in, but I don't think I have. Might be cheap to buy from ebay though, I will give you exact part number shortly. Do you have an electrical test meter with which you could measure voltages at the left motor module if the door card was removed?

Left and right as judged sitting in the driver's seat facing forward? The pictorials of the windows on your sticker suggests that 51 is left, from the glass shape (when sticker other way up), and 52 right (UK driver' side). I suppose that depends if you're looking at the glass from inside or outside! 😁 If left window doesn't work at all, how do you know which fuse might be the one that it needs? By elimination because right window stops working if you remove 51?

Best idea is to refit the wheel (if removed currently), recruit an assistant equipped with gloves and then ask them to rock the wheel about its vertical axis, holding it at 9 and 3 o'clock, while you watch how much movement there really is at that pin/bush interface (video it for later reference). Then repeat on the other side as a comparison. Just noticed the pry-bar video; that doesn't look like much movement to me. Compare to other side.

I think that's probably all normal behaviour for the courtesy light, I was trying to discover if the car was correctly sensing door open/closed status, which seems fine. Checking presence and condition of cabin fuse #51 (25A) would be my next suggestion. Beware of 180 degree mismatch possibility between fuse numbering diagram in manual and RHD reality. (Switch illumination is unaffected by this fuse's health).

There are some high-current fuses at the front of the under-bonnet fusebox, with heavy cables bolted to them. No. 2, the second one from the left as you look at them connects alternator output wire to battery positive. Check that with engine off you can measure the same voltage on the wire going to that fuse, as there is at battery positive. It's a huge (400Amp) rated fuse, but if that had cracked or something, it would mean the alternator could not get any charge to the battery.

😮 Which one? Pic?

Found a part number for this gasket/seal a bit accidentally yesterday while researching a Polo lock part number, it appears also on some Skoda drawings. Cheap (price shown is before VAT) but haven't actually spoken to a Skoda or VW dealer about availability. I've got some coming via ebay for the convenience but might just grab a few from local dealership if still available, for futureproofing reasons.

OK, pin 1 at G31/G42 4-way conn plug, brown wire, goes to engine ECU pin 66, via 4 way black connector pair on gearbox bracket, brown/grey after this point. Pin 2, yellow wire becomes red/grey at the 4-way gearbox connectors, finishing at ECU pin 30 Pin 3, grey/black wire continues as grey/black after mid-connection, going to ECU pin 17 Pin 4, purple wire continues as purple all the way to ECU pin 83 Check visually for wire damage near the cable entries of each of the 4-way connectors at combined sensor and gearbox, then if all clear, continuity test end to end, and test for shorts between each wire of the four, and all to chassis (brown on pin 1 probably should have continuity to chassis)

Just out dogwalking, info soon.

Engine code would assist me in finding wiring info. Letters at beginning of engine number on V5c document.

This will be the thread I should think. Be careful, the dogbone torques in the first post omit the angle stage which is important, @fabdavrav's post has more and better info. (FSII guide pin number is mildly, unimportantly wrong, should be 25Nm, won't be relevant to your car, apologies for OTT attention to detail) Fabia nut and bolt tightening torques - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA Bear in mind that anything that has a torque followed by an angle can't have its 'torque' checked by anything other than undoing and starting again, highly counterproductive as many are designated 'replace' if removed. For some it may even matter. If you were to download and save all of the relevant Skoda-authored pdf files relevant to your car from here (and thank @Tech1e for providing it), you would be able to do your own research on almost anything: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

This TF. You are often rude to other posters to the point of seeming belligerent; appearing to ridicule people who you feel to not be operating in ways you do. Just my opinion, others may not share it, though some seem to judging from reactions. I thought I had you on 'ignore' to reduce the annoyance you cause when I read you. Must've got that wrong. Will rectify promptly. Done. Goodbye.

That may indicate that the engine ECU has 'decided' that the input from some or other sensor is untrustworthy, and changed to an operating strategy that ignores that input.

Do you have any service records that show when engine air filter was last inspected or replaced? Or spark plugs?

Unlikely to be anything to do with the MAP sensor. How many miles has the car done? Since the engine light has been on, there will be one or more fault codes stored in the memory of the engine ECU. It would be optimal to read those for further narrowing down of possibilities. Whereabouts are you? Someone nearby may have the kit required to help you, for example if you were anywhere near me (S. Oxon) I could plug in a laptop with a VCDS cable and see what it's saying.

Is that a petrol engine, 3-cylinder?, we're a bit light on background information here. If it is a petrol, you won't find a MAF sensor. They use MAP instead. Cleaning it almost never helps with anything.