Breezy_Pete

Front shock pinch bolt is M14 XZN on some models. Rear brake carrier bolts also maybe. Not sure I've seen T60 torx anywhere though.

Typo, presumably.

All petrol engines with cats need to run at stoic for the cats to work optimally. MOT has very tight tolerance 0.97 - 1.03 from memory. Air leak in exhaust can make for dodgy tailpipe lambda reading, any chance there's such a leak?

👍

They might be fine pitch rather than standard thread pitch like those Screwfix ones surely will be. Stainless will also be weaker.

Look for an unplugged connector near the battery negative post.

Can't check now cos our Fabia was built minus alarm, and Polo one I ripped out pre-empting trouble. You may be right, there's always a chance. 🙂

I think that's normal, in cars with RF remote locking? (And an alarm fitted)

Fair play. Virtually impossible for the wiring to get damaged anywhere other than the area that bends in the door hinge, but... If the rubber boot hasn't been properly in position you can get water running down and corroding those connections. Did you unplug the 28-way plug, or just eyeball in situ?

One of the positions of each switch does exactly this ( the one with no resistor shown) , so there would seem to be more damage potential doing what you did before, with 12V feeds. Up to you, it doesn't seem like you're 100% understanding what I'm writing, nor the wiring diagram. What you're trying to establish is not whether the switch wiring is OK, but whether drivers side module is alive/awake. These are the resistor values I found on a switch pack for an earlier car (Mk1 Fabia I think) and which way the window should move with each. So shorting to earth should open a window From another thread on Briskoda: Both passenger and driver's side switch in the drivers door offer the same selection of four options. 1. Press switch down to the first detent - 150 Ohms to earth 2. Press switch fully down - short/0 Ohms to earth 3. Pull switch up to first detent - 1.8k Ohms to earth 4. Pull switch up fully - 530 Ohms to earth. It's possible that your switch may have different values, but if you can measure four different resistances (one = 0) for each switch you will have shown the switch to be innocent of fault., if you short the wires to ground, windows should open irrespective of the switch condition. (Ignition probably needs to be on for this).

I don't really follow what you mean by that, but as I said before, I doubt those two wires could get damaged. If you earth either end of either of those two wires do you hear any relay clicks? I can't remember if the switch position that shorts those wires direct to earth (no resistor) is an opening window or a closing window position. Either way I think if you short say the black/green wire to earth you should hear a click from the relay inside the driver's side motor module, if it is alive. If it's an opening position and the window is closed, you should see movement.

To check the wiring in the door bellows you don't need to dismantle the door at all. Here's one thread with a picture of where I mean, there are many, many such threads

The fact that the illumination works means the that earth is intact, and the black/green and white/black are within the main part of the door loom, so pretty well protected from harm compared to those that go from door to body of car. Seems improbable that both switches have failed at the same time, so... I'd say you'll find at least one broken wire in the bellows area, which is rendering the driver's side module (J386) temporarily unable to do its work.

No. Brown is earth Black/green is from/to right window switch White/black is from/to left window switch Grey/blue is illumination The switches ground/earth their respective 'output' wires via different resistances. The differing voltages that arise at the motor module pins 4 and 6 cause the different functions.

I can probably find you the right part number if you PM me your VIN. The above tips look very handy though. 🙂

Certainly worth a look at the wiring before spending any money on switches, I'd say.

More likely a broken wire in the bellows between driver's door and A-pillar; it's almost compulsory on a mk2. What year is the car?

Probably rainwater out of the longitudinal chassis member under there. It has drain holes which may have been blocked, then not. Or it may have come from higher up, there's an area under the brake fluid reservoir that drains into there, I think.

1K0 927 903 B, I think, but different if the car has 'gas discharge bulb' for some reason. I guess that means xenon headlights? In that case it would be a suffix -J at the end of the same core number. The first of those numbers has been superseded by 1K0 927 903 R, £55 +VAT. Doubt you'll find anything new anywhere other than a Skoda dealer.

Possible new aftermarket candidate 6Q2 423 893F AIC Hydraulic hose, Steering system cheap ▷ AUTODOC online shop Don't usually like recommending autodoc cos of awkwardness of returning to Berlin or wherever in case of mis-supply or faulty goods, but options may be limited for something with such end fittings.

Seems to me that this is a relatively rare problem, so scrapyard sourcing may be the (only) economical fix. You should be able to judge candidates for soundness at that point by visual inspection prior to removal.

Is there any chance that oil is getting there from somewhere else, and actually isn't PAS fluid?

The 6q1 bit of that part number suggests LHDiness, PM your VIN to me and I can probably look up the right number.

I think we've been here before @J.R. but I don't think there is a bearing between crank and input shaft on the 02T.

Looks like right kit and right belt.