Breezy_Pete

Displayed 90 covers a wide range of temperatures, so it may be getting a lot warmer, covertly. I would test radiator fan function if I were you, that could be causing trouble if not working as designed. 1 or 2 radiator fans? Air conditioning fitted?

Maybe, but I think just some suitable sealant over outside of that plastic tube, after thorough cleaning, a new hose and a spring band clamp would be my approach. Metal and plastic will have different thermal expansivity, which would make me reluctant to use a metal insert/exsert (think I made up that word), and why sprung clamps are nice as they can accommodate dimension changes with temperature and retain close to constant clamp force.

I like your thinking, would be great to find a fix which can re-use that rad. Are replacement hoses available? Do you have part number? I can search by VIN if helpful.

Same here, sounds like much less grief.

Yes, old rubber does lose its conformability and make resealing difficult, encouraging overtightening as a 'solution'. Aftermarket radiators can also have poorly made/finished fittings with misalignment and protruding bits where all should be smooth and round. Wait, if the radiator is 23 years old it's the original, my mistake. Probably I assumed aftermarket and recent because you pictured a new one.

Flock of Fabias, for the alliteration. 🙂

Two things to think about for those who think they run the A/C 24/7/365 - You don't cos it stops every time the engine does. You don't gain much reliability by doing so because for the last twenty years or so Skodas have had variable displacement clutchless compressors which never reduce circulation down to zero even when nominally 'off'.

Undoing any of the engine mounts theoretically requires replacement of the bolts, but the 'dogbone' one under the gearbox, if you undo the gearbox end, those bolts go into blind holes so are unlikely to be in poor condition. There are flexible mounts (to cope with thermal expansion/contraction) in the exhaust, so won't be likely to break anything by rocking the bottom of the engine a little.

They tend to only test with dry nitrogen if there's obvious leakage during a vacuum hold period, or documented rapid leakage from a recent refill at same establishment or on the car's records.

What type of hose clip was used on that connection? Spring band or worm-screw type? Can easily apply too much force with the latter.

Well done. Yes, the black/violet will be nominal 12V whenever ignition is on.

You may well have been misinformed. The official MOT manual is available to peruse at your leisure here: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) If you can't find something that mentions this specific warning light , or a statement that 'any warning light is a fail', then it is false information you have been told.

Not sure if it also helps, but I made this very short video intended to show the movement required to unclip the retaining wire. In the absence of the wire, on removed wheel. 20220917_151154.mp4

Sounds unlikely to me, do you have a meter with which to measure its voltage some hours after last use?

Not ideal, the VW4 in article number and VW240DDRS on label means it's from a Polo. I think up and down may be reversed if fitted to a Fabia or Roomster. Expensive too compared with a repair.

Cam sensor is hall effect so don't think resistance measuring will get you far. What's a spark plug cover?

If you're fully unlucky you've cranked it over with coolant in one or more cylinders and caused the chain to skip. Take the spark plugs out and look for any such coolant on the piston crowns. Torch assisted.

Have you looked at ebay listing images of what the guts of the wheel and airbag look like separately? I found that useful to work out best angle to lever etc. I've got some pics I can probably find of a face-lift mk1 which may be similar or same. Just have to find... Finding or making an optimal length tool also helped. Stubby flat screwdriver with sharpened tip to get in behind/under the steel wire loop rings a bell.

Your signature suggests that you have, or have access to VCDS, so a full autoscan seems like the natural course of action to discover what the engine ECU thinks the trouble is.

You can also edit the title yourself, I spotted when I noticed you have Freedom membership, see later edit to my previous.

Reported for mod attention. As a note to any reader, you can do this to your own posts to request attention. Pick 'report' from the dropdowns when you click the three dots on right of post. Much more effective as mods simply can't read every post. Actually being a Freedom member you could edit it yourself @YMe. Go into the edit function of the first post and you get to edit the title or any other part of it. 🙂

Driver's side on RHD cars.

Pretty sure motor runs one way only, or stuff within it does any required supply switching.

Trolling a tad aren't you J.R. ?

Just had a thought. I've made an edit early in the above post cos I made an assumption that could be invalid. Please confirm/deny that the wire you measured at 14V was so coloured.