Breezy_Pete

Does it look like the BCM can be removed from the car and inspected internally quite easily?

OK, see if the readings become the same as each other if you disconnect both rear light clusters (if that is easy to do)? If they now read the same, the problem is at the rear right. If the readings are still different, reconnect the rear clusters and try with both fronts disconnected.

OK, that suggests there is a short circuit somewhere on the right side wiring, I'm assuming that the negative sign in front of the 1.2 Ohm is accidental? Most likely would be water ingress into one of the connectors that go onto the bulb holders, but obviously other possibilities exist.

Just to talk you through the diagram. A permanent 12V supply is connected to one side of Fuse 49, the other side goes to the power input for the indicators on the BCM. With white connector unplugged this power no longer goes to the BCM. You say the fuse doesn't blow in this case, which means that red/white wire is probably not short circuited between fuse and BCM. The round things with crosses in are the individual indicator bulbs, Front, Side, Rear on each side of car. You probably don't, as I said, the Ohms number should be low (but not zero) from either pin 14 to 38, or pin 15 to 38, what are those two numbers please?

Did you measure from 14 to 38, and 15 to 38 on the contacts of the loom connector, not the BCM itself, with white connector not connected to BCM? A low reading is to be expected in both cases.

This is the circuit as far as I can see.

Just eating but yes, you are missing lots. I'll sketch you a little diagram soon.

I think you can safely go quite a bit higher, but I will not give an exact number. I usually go to 2.3bar on fronts and a little more on rears on our similar cars.

The ratios for a turbo diesel's gearbox probably won't suit the 3-pot petrol I fear, to the point of being very awkward to drive in the lower gears. Gut feeling. I doubt the bolts holding bell-housing to engine will match up either. Careful scrutiny of photos of ebay gearboxes of each type may shed some light on this. I very much doubt you'd see a £30pcm saving either. What tyre pressures do you use?

Should give fault code/light.

I haven't tried these measurements myself by the way, but since each side's three bulbs are all in parallel, and cold incandescent bulb filaments have quite low resistances, the Ohm numbers are likely to be quite small. They should be noticeably higher than when the meter probes are shorted together, to each other though. Let us know what numbers you get, please. 🙂

Hi again Jackieeeeeee, according to fuse descriptions, fuse 49 is just for the indicators, and the output wires to left and right indicator bulb trios are on pins 14 and 15 of the same connector, black/white wire for left, black/green for right. I don't know what happens inside the BCM, but on mk1 Fabia there is a single integrated circuit (chip) that deals with the indicator outputs. I suspect the problem is external but it might not be. What I would recommend is doing a pair of resistance measurements with a multimeter. With the white connector unplugged from the BCM mark the positions of pins 14, 15 and 38, then set meter to measure Ohms, on the lowest range it has. Measure between pin 14 and 38 (an earth connection), record reading. Measure between 15 and 38, record reading. If one reading is significantly lower than the other it suggests a short-circuit to earth on that side's wiring to the bulbs. If they are identical and non-zero, the problem may be inside the BCM. This image shows the pin numbering on the BCM connectors, pin 17 of the white connector is red-ringed due to using the same picture for some other purpose.

Here, isn't it? Often the only sensor on an engine with a single wire going to it.

Not sure to be honest, I just searched for CAYC oil pressure switch, thinking that was likely to be your engine code. That video came up. Have you looked there and failed to spot it?

It would be best to start your own thread about this in the mk2 Fabia subforum. It's not ideal to go off at such tangent within this guide to stereo wiring. If you have any trouble doing so, let me or a moderator know and we will try to assist, I'm sure.

What's the rest of the part number you're referring to? They should be well placed to know what's what, to be fair.

Pin 13 of the 73-pin white connector that goes onto the BCM. Approximately above clutch pedal in LHD cars that have a clutch pedal.

Ah, old eyes, small smileys on phone screen...

Looks like it would be easy to me. U-shaped cutout bit of cardboard with e.g 288mm between inner faces of the u is another easily made measurer.

@Tech1e is probably your best bet if you live anywhere near him. Worcester area if I remember rightly.

The official circuits aren't organised in that way. There's no such page(s) as 'door loom'. You'd have to look up the separate parts of the loom by function, then piece them all together, which would take a fair old while.

Does the engine coolant shortage warning work? (unplug it to check). They share an earth connection.

"3 miles from home and just suddenly lost power" sounds an unlikely way for the timing chain to have slipped. An engine stall, cold start or start-up after the car has rolled a little in gear with engine off would seem much more likely scenarios for that IMO.

Another encouraging thing, they're a better engine than the 6-valve in my opinion. Scary thought.

There are 2 different 3-cylinder HTP engines one with single camshaft, 6 valves, narrow head and spark plugs that stick out forwards in front of the head. The other with twin cams 12 valves and central, vertical spark plugs. This sounds encouraging.