Breezy_Pete

Take the cluster out (not too hard), take off the back cover, carefully take the circuit board out (lots of plastic ramp clips to undo). Lift up the decal at the green connector end to reveal the solder joints, mend any that are cracked by re-flowing with a soldering iron and flux-cored solder. May be hard to see cracks without magnification, and be careful not to melt the decal or plastic moulding below it while applying soldering iron. Here's a pic with pins 1 and 17 highlighted, ones which often fail giving immobiliser unreliability. Pin 2 is left of pin 1 as we look at this.

The -AN number isn't a straight supersedence of the -AL, so you can be pretty sure there is something different about them. No idea what though, might be something trivial like a different connector, but more likely something emissions-related at a guess, between those for A and B-series engines. The -AL number is equivalent to 038 130 079 BX according to Skoda-parts.com

The genuine part numbers for the 256mm FS3 set-up are all here, if it helps at all: floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) If it's not clear form their website, phone them up; always best to get a human armed with your reg/VIN to confirm part correctness before purchase.

256.

I suspect you have a cracked solder joint on the connector pin which supplies the instrument cluster 12V when the full beams are on. Pin 2 of the 32-way connector of the instrument cluster. See if giving the cluster a 'clout of encouragement' makes it come on at a time when it should be on. Try not to crack the clear plastic though, hit the top of the dash or something.

The stickers on the shafts would seem to me to be the place to find out their part numbers.

That wasn't really what I 'heard' when I listened/watched (twice). Just that it's incredibly important to keep your skeletal musculature strong throughout life. Sometimes it's surely better to encourage people to do something important that they may not currently be doing by whatever means might grab their attention?

Better to lead with that, than the negative/doubting stuff, I would have thought, if you agree that wholeheartedly?

Skoda Satin Black/Onyx 6Y2959565FJDY - LLLParts Pricey, and possibly not colour matching? Is your current one this part number including the JDY after the F? (It'll likely be written on there somewhere)?

Try parts counter at Skoda dealership?

The compressor is a variable displacement type, so always engaged by design. When no cooling is requested it only circulates at approx. 4% duty cycle. G65 'signal too low' error codes generally indicate that most/all of the refrigerant has leaked out. Does the A/C still do any cooling?

Yes, dash light should just go.

Not unheard of to have one on right rear. My Polo does. I don't have wiring info for Superb3, but latest of the Superb2 docs doesn't seem to have anything but front left.

Download Fabia CFD MY 2003-2004 from here for the equivalent engine wiring in Fabia1 (search ASY within doc, or go to pdf page 111) MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

Part cost and labour time both sound high to me, particularly the former.

Normal cambelt is on same (UK drivers) side of the car as the aux belt. Water pump toothed belt, and waterpump on opposite, gearbox end.

All the relevant (genuine) part numbers should be in whichever of these diagrams relates to JCZ (which includes the first, where I surmise from the part number of the whole thing that it is an 02R type box). gearbox Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com) There may also be some cross-references to aftermarket parts using the 'aftermarket' button (left/right arrows) in the rightmost column. View on a computer rather than phone if you don't see all the info you need, phones often seem to drop useful columns.

Should be pins 20 and 33 at the ABS module connector. Pin numbers (ends of rows) should be marked somewhere on the connector. Count carefully! Link those with a piece of wire, then test continuity between the pins (with wires fitted into connector if probes don't make reliable contact) at the loom connector for the rear left sensor. If you get a beep, that shows both wires make it. Test also that there is no short to chassis from that loop.

I can't help you any more I'm sorry to say Raky. I don't have enough time.

Do you have any record of either engine thermostat or engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor ever having been replaced since the car was built 15 years ago? Change both if not. On the basis of your diagnostic app temperatures, the engine is not getting hot enough for any problem, nor any fan function, but the app might be getting bad info from the engine ECU (which directly reads ECT sensor) if that ECT sensor is reading wrongly. The radiator thermoswitch actually has two independent switches inside, with different temperature thresholds, for activating each speed of fan operation by causing the relay coils in the FCM to be grounded and so energised. These thresholds are approx 95 and 102C. No ECU nor other 'intelligent electronics' is connected to the thermoswitch in any way, hot coolant is the only thing that can make it switch. By loom testing you have proved that if those thresholds are reached and the switches activate, the relays inside the FCM will turn on to power to the fan. There are no electronics within the fan. Until the thermoswitch area of the radiator is reaching these high temperatures, no fan operation should be expected. If the engine shuts down unexpectedly after a few minutes of idling, there must be some other problem completely separate from any of this stuff, I think.

Yeah, I think so. Advantage of the precat is faster action from cold start, but MOT works with warmed up engine, so no problem.

I think all the aftermarket ones will just have the one, main cat. Should still be OK. BKY engine, right?

Me too.

Is it a 1.0 or 1.2 engine?

Which corner of the car is the fault?