Breezy_Pete

Good work.

Forget that, found em. According to this page the latest part number for cars built before 7th sept 2015 is 0CQ598554, and for cars built on or after that day 0CQ907554H. Might be safest to search the first of those numbers. LLLParts

Does anyone know where to find Haldex controllers in ETKA? @nige8021 maybe? I couldn't find when I looked earlier.

Double-check the bottom right red one, fuse 15. That looks to supply the heaters of both lambda probes.

No probs. Please let us know how you get on.

Yep, 10 amp standard size blade fuse by the looks of it. You'll probably be able to tell by inspection/eyeballing though, before buying one?

On third thoughts, yes, try fuse 29. 😁

OK, let me recheck. Not fuse 29 then I think.

Hi Jason; have you checked fuses? Fuse 29 (10Amp rated) appears to be the one at a quick glance. Watch out for confusing fuse diagrams that may need mirroring or rotating to look like the one in your car. Knowing what engine is in the car may help me to be more sure about that.

There's a post or two in this thread by a user named 'threepot' who sounds like a guru on these units. https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20254/ May be worth trying to get a message to him.

Is that under a front seat? Yellow connectors are airbag related I think so nothing to do with engine running.

Well done

The SSP I read on the N280 regulated systems says that a minimum of 4% circulation occurs, from memory.

Thought you might. Shame I didn't get my edit in before you bothered.

Have you still got the original Keith? Think I may be able to fix that, FWIW. No charge, just for learning purposes.

The N280 valve has a minimum opening which ensures that even when switched off a small proportion of the refrigerant still circulates, so no worries about seals.

Still not 100% sure which ball joint you are referring to, is it the item 7 here? In which case they are handed, as can be seen by the different part numbers for left and right:

Well done.

EGR cooler pipework I think.

Are you losing any coolant? looks a bit like a coolant leak onto hot metalwork. Maybe caused by/coinciding with increased heat of a DPF regen in progress?

Whereabouts are you? If the fault is in the place I suspect, then a replacement cluster will probably cure it, but I would say it's a lot more work.

I'm guessing you mean the outer CV joint? Same part number both sides, see here drive shaft; for 6 speed manual gearbox; D - 20.11... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com) Or maybe you mean the ball joint connecting wishbone to bearing carrier? Those are handed, item 7's here wishbone; wheel bearing housing; anti-roll bar - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com) What Moog part number do you have?

Do you have any breathing exercises or anything to help cope with such anxieties? I might know a hypnotherapist who could probably help.

@duck Use the ignore function to remove unwanted guff.

Take the cluster out (not too hard), take off the back cover, carefully take the circuit board out (lots of plastic ramp clips to undo). Lift up the decal at the green connector end to reveal the solder joints, mend any that are cracked by re-flowing with a soldering iron and flux-cored solder. May be hard to see cracks without magnification, and be careful not to melt the decal or plastic moulding below it while applying soldering iron. Here's a pic with pins 1 and 17 highlighted, ones which often fail giving immobiliser unreliability. Pin 2 is left of pin 1 as we look at this.