Breezy_Pete

You have a picture of a wrong type of module at the top of your pictures, why?

Which two, there are three, no? To test low speed of fan, you need to connect the thermoswitch connector loom contact that the brown wire goes to (pin 1) with the one that the brown/blue wire goes to (pin 2). To test full speed you first need to switch on the ignition, then connect the brown (1) to the brown/green (pin 3). Picture here: Most likely the low speed doesn't work, but test both.

O-rings on the high pressure side of the circuit. A (cheap) UV torch will show you leakage locations if dye has ever been added, but usually you can see (PAG) oil adjacent to any seals that have leaked.

Wouldn't that be undoing sequence, tightening sequence would be middle-outward, kinda opposite that @nige8021? I'd guess that it's really not critcial.

It would indeed be helpful to know what part number - exactly, including the crucial letter suffixes - was and is now fitted. Whether the car is pre- or post-facelift would also be useful info, as well as how many electric windows it has (2 or 4).

They were a factory option apparently. Download one of the wiring diagram documents (CFDs) from here: Search the word 'day' within the doc and you'll see how they are wired up in original form. No interest personally, not a fan of lighting mods.

😆

Electrolytic capacitors can rattle if they dry out.

Shame. Doubt there's any coding involved. If you post it to me I could have a look and maybe fix it for you? PM if interested.

Perhaps if you told us what engine it contains?

Whatever you do don't replace the rearmost, single one with anything other than the correct bolt. There's very little clearance above the captive nut on the subframe before you get to the steering rack. Even a 4mm longer bolt than the correct 61mm one will write off the steering rack by denting the cylinder.

That was a bit of an anxious wait. Bloody good to 'see' you here. 😁

It will be a 6R0 part number with a build after March 2010, I'm pretty sure. This means that the key-turned signal goes straight from lock to BCM. That then tells the window motor to go up/down depending on direction of key turn. So there's still suspicion about the power wiring to the motor module, along with the grey/white wire mentioned upthread a bit, and the thin brown earth.

Certainly looks like it, yes. Do the switches light up when the rest of the dash lighting is on? (A check of the thin brown earth wire, which would also affect the switch functions if broken)

Can you confirm that this is a 2012 Fabia (as per your profile) with a window motor module with part number starting 6R0? Just that one, or both sides?

The thick red/white (or is it red/yellow) is the main permanent power feed to the motor module, the thick brown is its main earth, so ideally measure into the back of the socket at the window motor to check you have 12V there when the 28-way is plugged in at the A-pillar. Another critical wire for window function is the grey/white from pin 5 of the 28-way to pin 5 at the motor module. The thin brown earth from pin 16 of the 28-way may also cause havoc if broken (ends up at pin 7 of motor module but connects to other stuff too).

Thinking of you this morning matey. 🙂

That's me completely baffled by what those wires do then, and no idea how to fix your window. Sorry! Are you certain all the other wires are intact, and power is getting to the end of the fat wires at the motor module?

Ah, try the passenger side mirror adjustment. I guess you meant to write that there is no click or clunk other than the switch sound?

Yeah, I think that's 12 and 10. I'll have to check circuits again, but double check that the mirror tilts and pans, if you see what I mean. When you command the window up or down is there any click/clunk despite lack of movement? Try to listen up close to the motor module.

I don't have a pic of the numbering, but described it a couple of posts above ^

10 and 12? If so they are both for mirror adjustment, not windows, and 0.35mm² in the factory loom. So 0.5 will be fine.

Which pin numbers do these wires go to on the 28-way connector? I think the column nearest the back of the car is numbered 1-15 top to bottom, the other column (with the bigger wires at the bottom) 16-28 top to bottom.

See if you can persuade surgeon or anaesthetist to take some pics during the op for some 'unusual engine bay pics' for the thread?? Best of luck buddy; but don't worry, they won't let you die on the table, too much paperwork!

Not a worry, me being overly pedantic more than anything. Still the confusing issue of why the supersedence path highlighted by @MicMac goes through 1K8951605B and stops at 1K0951605C, but ETKA for this car shows the opposite path forwards in time! Beats the hell out of me. 😁