Breezy_Pete

Also test the resistance between the sensor pins during your checking, just in case it has failed by leaking into its insides, shorting out wires/pins. Can be tricky to get meter probes in there to make reliable contact without touching each other.

Do you still have the old/original loom?

No, you didn't, that's a 1K0! Again, supersersed by 1k8...A, then 1k8...B, but then 1K0...C Excellent choice. 🙂

Dunno, but if anyone can find 1K8 951 605C to buy anywhere I'll be surprised. For cah1982's car any of the part numbers shown in the skoda-parts.com link I posted should work, so best to buy one of those, the cheapest they can find.

Are you 100% sure the connector going to the lock module is fully clicked into place?

What was the part number of the new loom? Same as the old one?

It's the third character I'm trying to draw attention to, 0 in one case 8 in t'other. Different base part numbers.

Oh yeah, diesel all the way if you care about CO2. 'cos they go a chunk further per litre, more than outweighing the extra CO2 per litre . That 200/120 ratio sounds wildly improbable though, on the face of it. Not so much if NOx is your 'thing'.

What's not uncommon, you've lost me? I'd trust crowd-sourced real-world longterm data much more than whatcar in a lab/dyno/test track/whatever.

Yeah, same as on lll, but different from what you posted in your first comment 4 hours ago ^^ What I'm saying is that I don't think 1K8951605C exists, nor ever has done.

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Hmm.

Pin 1 at CTS, blue wire, terminates at ECU pin 112 Pin 2, brown, goes to ECU pin 104

If it's a short to ground don't you just need to check if the green wire has continuity to batt neg, which it shouldn't have? Can look up ecu pin number, but Haynes comment sounds un-fact-based I'd say.

Ah, I think you may have mis-read 7zap. According to the LLL link I posted above, the previous version to 1K8951605B was 1K0951605C.

Not really visible from anywhere but below when the engine is in the bay. You can probably touch it though, blind.

Does the latter definitely exist?

Back of the block, pointing at the inside face of the flywheel. It's only a guess that it might be iffy though.

Who are TMS? I could send you a crank sensor to try, but you'll probably need help swapping it in, access is grim.

ETKA seems to suggest it's one of the top two part numbers, either side of the dates shown (and prices approx as shown on the right, not sure where you get the 1k8951605C number from? LLLParts Skoda-parts.com shows a lot of part number equivalents (including both of those in the first link) in grey near top of page: Alarm Unit Škoda 1K0951605F (skoda-parts.com)

You'll never get all debris out, because within heater matrices the incoming and outgoing large-bore connections split up into many smaller bore pipes which are all in parallel. If any of these are partially or fully blocked with debris, your flushing fluid will preferentially go through others instead. Here are some pics of a Vauxhall one I cut up many years ago:

From the same website (Carbon Footprint Calculator, Carbon Footprint, Carbon Footprint from Cars - Fleet News), an easy way to see what your car actually produces by way of CO2: "Burning a litre of diesel produces around 2.62 kgs of carbon dioxide, whereas petrol has a lower carbon content and produces about 2.39 kgs. Older engines might lose a few percent due to unburnt fuel, but otherwise technology can have little effect on this chemistry." Not much use when/if aiming to buy a new-to-market car, but fuel economy data from the likes of Fuelly.com or Spritmonitor.de will tell you the reality for existing models. Much better data than any figures published by the manufacturer.

I haven't been on erWin for ages, but what you're looking for is the 'vehicle data'; is that not in the 'vehicle specific information drop-down after you've paid your flat rate?

Could also be an actual short to ground, say from water having got into the connector and shorting pins together. Or a bit of loom wire with insulation worn away against some unpainted metal.

Hmm, might be a cheap/easy fix, but if you're happy driving a car that you know isn't roadworthy, up to you.