Breezy_Pete

Compulsory fit since 2004 according to a quick googling. Where do you get your MOTs?

I suspect your ABS is broken, and the dash light has been obscured to conceal the fact. Look under the engine ECU for the ABS module.

What makes you think it doesn't have ABS?

Look for broken wires between chassis and each door, starting with the most used one.

It's a(nother) good reason for looking after your teeth, by both diet and teeth-cleaning habits.

Would probably end up more powerful. 😊

That opposite one doesn't look to have been far behind. Would be interesting to do a tensile test to failure in its current state and see what it goes at? Looking like a serious design oversight, isn't it? Edit: or just possibly an assembly time error if there was supposed to be a load of waxoil-type stuff squirted in there.

Remind me of the status of the car's EGR system please? The MAF reading is/should be affected by what the EGR is doing, so if the EGR is playing up, or absent, the ECU will not see the changes expected when it tries to use recirculation.

I put old and new the wrong way round at the start of that calc, by the way, so readings +/- are all opposite what they should be. Speedo will read closer to reality than when fresh out of the factory, rather than further from reality.

If profile is same on both at 35, then you've increased both height and width. 235/35-R19 vs 225/35-R19 Tire Comparison - Tire Size Calculator | Tacoma World Only about 1.1% diff on speedo though, allegedly

Those two part numbers seem to be equivalent, see all numbers near top: Brake Light Switch Škoda 5G0698459 (skoda-parts.com) Which is odd considering the price difference shown here LLLParts

Yep. I wonder if the wording 'repair set' implies a known issue??

Item 100 here, I think (on the right side anyway) LLLParts Other side on this page: LLLParts, same conn. The three pin/wire sizes appear to be helpfully listed in the 'note' column.

Why the need to replace the male conn? Corrosion (some evidence at bottom of your pic) or pin breakage? Is there a problem with door function that is being attributed to pin corrosion/damage? I'll try to look up a part number for you, since my Fabia info appears to be a bit irrelevant in hindsight.

I even took pics, apparently. Different arrangement on the mk1 Fabia though, four separate male connectors within the overall black 'carrier', which - unlike yours - appears to itself have to be inserted from the outside. So on the Fabia it looks like the (4 individual) loom connectors get posted out through the hole, clipped into the back of the carrier and then that clipped into the hole from outside inwards.

I think that may be able to come out outwards, rather than having to be got at from inside the cabin (from mk1 Fabia experience). I was pleasantly surprised to find - for once - that there was even a few (2 or 3?) inches of slack in the cabling behind it. I don't really understand why it should be able to come out that way, 'cos it wouldn't be installed that way, but I distinctly remember doing it.

Up to you, but bear in mind that the same workshop manual suggests in the context of rear shoe fitment: ❑ Cover the whole contact surface of the brake shoe with solid lubricant paste - G 000 650- I'd love to know how many apprentices have taken that the wrong way 😁

VCDS Lite (freeware) in its registered form (99USD) with a cheap FTDI/KKL cable (<£20) will do it I think; but there's really no need unless you know air has somehow been allowed into the ABS pump.

However you manage to get the white bit out, you definitely want to refit the rubber boot to it before you fit it back in at the end of the job. It's a real struggle to get the boot properly onto it in-situ, but really easy when it's out with all the cables unplugged.

The white bit is intended to come out with the rubber boot still fitted to it, squeezing the vertical edges in towards each other should release the clips. Easier said than done TBF. Then there are individual release catches on each of the four connectors that you will have slightly better access to with boot and white surround pulled as far back as poss along the wiring.

I think the answer is that the front door modules are data-connected to/by the convenience CANbus; but the rear door window modules are only connected by single wire LIN bus to their respective/same-side front door modules. So although the rear may have all its wiring intact, if its same-side companion front door module isn't operational, it won't get command info from anywhere central.

Yes.

There are two switches involved, one causing the brake lights to come on, the other one informing the engine ECU that the brakes are being applied. They're both in the same housing. The brake lights working doesn't prove that the other is, unfortunately. On your car I expect the switch(es) are on the underside of the brake master cylinder rather than at the pedal. The wire from the relevant switch going to the ECU may be a white/green one from pin 1 of the 4-way at the switch connector to ECU pin 21. Access is not easy, I believe, on RHD cars. I would be inspecting that wiring and connections prior to purchasing anything, if it were my car.

I'd be very surprised if it didn't.

Private sale, sold as seen; I expect.