Breezy_Pete

Don't have wiring from before 2003, but I think this may be the resistor: BLOWER RESISTOR VW SKODA 6U0 959 623 HEAVY DUTY OEM SKV GERMANY 5901947318751 | eBay Wait for someone else to confirm that this could be the problem though, that's expensive to take a gamble with.

Usually a resistor (actually 3 in series) that fails open circuit. Speed 4 bypasses the whole resistor thing, so is unaffected. Not sure if I have any Caddy wiring info in order to check this theory, will have a look.

I expect the housing is cracked near that bolt. Part number 028121132B superseded that part number way back in 2001, which may improve your odds of searching out a replacement. Plenty of aftermarket parts on ebay, so probably also obtainable by a decent motor factor. 028121132b | eBay

Just a case of one part number superseding another I think mate. Checking here, both of those part numbers appear under the Skoda part number heading near the top of this page: Relay 645 Germany 4H0951253A (skoda-parts.com) I think any of the part numbers in that line will do the job.

Yep, direct

Pin 1 at sensor blue wire to pin 112 at engine ECU, pin 2, brown wire to ecu pin 104.

Year of car? ASZ or BLT engine?

Not sure if this page helps any more or not? Skoda Workshop Manuals > Yeti > Heating, ventilation, air conditioning system > Heating, Air conditioning > Air conditioner > Climatic, air conditioning system with manual control > Removing and installing the evaporator vent temperature sender G263 (workshop-manuals.com)

Sorry, forget that about LHD/RHD.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you should have two working reversing lights. Black/blue wires feeding into pin 4 of the connector each side.

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Very interesting link, thanks.

So, who watched the show? Someone must've?

Your engine code is needed to find this. See link in my signature about engine codes.

Wiring tends to be as thin as it possibly can be, and gets heat-cycled and vibrated whenever the engine is run. It's also now 15 years old. Careless workmanship during maintenance or disconnection without understanding of the latch mechanism are also risk factors. Always worth a quick look in the vicinity of the connector cable entry.

Heated and electrically movable, yes.

I was afraid that's what you'd find. So none of the necessary wiring inside the car is going to be present, in the main part of the cabin, at the a-pillar connectors nor in the door looms. Hard to be balanced in my opinion as I haven't tried 'Fabia life' without them, but are you really sure you need this?

Could be either of the last two wiring diagram versions, but they're probably the same anyway. See if the cabin fuse position 38 has 0, 1 or 2 contacts installed in it as a first step.

Probably.

Yes, looks like wiring or bulb holder contact problem.

I don't think you can put the new gas in old systems or vice versa, but not too sure.

Interesting comparison. I'd read that the new stuff leaks more, so that seems to be confirmed by your data.

In the cabin, because that's where the evaporator (item 15) is. Sensor is Item 29 here air-conditioning system with electronic regulatio... - Yeti(YET) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com) (view on computer, not phone) Somewhere near to the pollen filter, seemingly. Sorry I can't be more precise.

I think the radial-seal cap o-ring may not be applicable to Felicia, having looked at some google images. An easy test that may well indicate a HG problem is to check for residual pressure in the expansion tank several hours after the car was last driven (overnight for example). There should be no such pressure.

Yes Have you checked for wiring damage near the connector plug?