Breezy_Pete

Don't know, but sounds unlikely. If you have VCDS why not do the basic setting?

Ask the MOT place for another copy, or just what the exact lambda number was. They must have the info.

Please post a photo of the emissions fail printout, with the lambda, CO, and HC numbers. Exhaust leak seems quite likely to me, especially if lambda number is high.

Around 20-30mA, 0.02-0.03A I would expect, if all is well and everything is properly 'asleep'. Slightly tricky to both get the car into that state and measure the current without re-awakening it. There's a method I've described here that works, but it will be easier with two people as it's really a three-handed job: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495243-quick-and-dirty-parasitic-current-measurement/ Keeping the red meter probe 100% connected to the battery clamp while lifting it is the tricky bit, which a 2nd person could readily assist with.

@Webb-Alan Position 4, top right of relay holder:

Unlikely to do any harm, unlikely to do any good.

I'd've thought they'd already be watercooled? Surely? Anyway, the future of cars may be a tad dimmer in the media, but that doesn't worry me unduly. Not really a 'car fan' in terms of getting excited about them, personally. Car forums may carry on; there'll just be a bifurcation of those into 'CDs' and those into 'vinyl', I expect. Hopefully without pointless arguing about which is 'best'. Forums where there are large numbers of non-electric car owners may even get busier as those cars mature and need more problem solving effort to keep them running well.

28 is known as radiator outlet coolant temperature sensor, and presumably has a major role in controlling rad fans. Also wires to engine ECU I think. Are you trying to solve a problem? Do you want detailed wiring info? If so your engine code will be needed.

Grey one will be coolant temp to engine ECU. What year is the car? Oil temp sensor is combined with oil level sensor in bottom of sump.

Yes, that's what gearbox he has. No idea about the rest.

From the SSP on 02T gearbox - "All forward gears are synchronised. 1st and 2nd gears have double synchronisers"

Impressive stuff.

Where are you located, approximately?

Then I suggest checking fuse 11, its contacts for dirtiness/looseness in fusebox and ideally that it is supplying 12V to pin 2 of the 6-way at the master module when ignition is on. And check the contacts of that 6-way plug/socket for dirt/corrosion too.

Mk1 (6Y in VIN) or Mk2 Fabia (5J in VIN)? December 2007 could be either, I think.

Yep, fuse 36 feeds both the dimmer and the numberplate lights.

Part numbers of your original dimmer if you have it, and the one currently in the car will be useful. I think the right part number for yours may be 6Y0 919 094D (if the car has Xenons).

Might be different again if the car was built after may 2006! Take a picture of the connector on the dimmer showing which colour wires go where, if you can.

Hmm, maybe not, if the car has Xenons from the factory those pin numbers will be wrong, and you may have fitted a spare of the wrong type. The dimmer to suit factory 'gas discharge lamps' has a 6 way connector, instead of 7-way and the 12V feed going into the dimmer connector on pin 3, and the variable output on pin 5, with earth on pin 1.

Check that pin 1 of the 7-way connector at the dimmer switch has 12V when light switch is on either sidelight or dipped beam position. If that's OK, check for a variable voltage at pin 3 of the same connector as the dimmer wheel is rotated.

@Trailerchap check fuse 11, and ideally check that its output makes it to pin 2 (black/blue wire) of the 6-way connector at the drivers side motor module when ignition is on. Should be a 7.5A fuse.

With a known working one, or new one?

Does numberplate light work?

Depends on the balance of skills versus richness/ poorness. I'd repair, personally. Lots of kits to do so on ebay. fabia door loom repair | eBay

Maybe; the mk2 has an unfortunate design here where the wires go straight across from body to door, so they must bend/straighten every time the door is moved. On the Mk1 there's a vertical dogleg in the boot, so the principal movement of the loom is a twist rather than a bend, which seems to result in far fewer problems. Intermittent problem makes it less likely to be a broken wire though.