Breezy_Pete

Did you mean to write EV there, not ICE?

@MATT0693 the PR code for the rear brakes is usually on the sticker, but I think the one for the front brakes rarely if ever is shown there.

Yep, follow the link in my signature, or just send me a private message.

Plastic.

Not done on a Citigo, but your approach sounds fine to me. Bleeding order is pretty much irrelevant I think if you have a pressure bleeder. Not sure I'd bother with the clutch bleeding 'cos the slave cylinder is in a fairly cool location compared to the brakes so I wouldn't expect much local degradation; but if you want to, just follow the pipework from brake master cylinder to clutch master and then on to the slave. Any DOT4 will do fine, yes.

"Terminal 30" is a description in wiring diagrams of anything and everything that is directly connected to battery positive, so I wonder if this is saying "try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery" Hardware equivalent of "Your computer needs to be restarted to finish this software update"? Just a guess. Not obvious to me why they couldn't or wouldn't have just done that while they had the car though.

^ Yep. Newton's first law says "If you can keep the speed constant you'll use much less diesel, weight loading almost irrelevant; it's only the aero drag and mechanical frictional losses you have to overcome" (paraphrasing into context).

Diesel engine, presumably?

You will be able to get a full 'car data' pdf via erWin Skoda for a small fee, but possibly worth trying to get the same info for free by directly asking for it at the parts counter, face to face whilst/after buying some cheap consumable.

Check for loss of engine coolant from the expansion tank, but otherwise nothing to worry about. Steam and carbon dioxide are the two main reaction products from burning hydrocarbon fuels. Neither are visible in warm weather; but in cold weather the steam can become visible as it condenses. Is this your first winter with this car?

They are separated. Either refrigerant pressure reported to HVAC module triggers fan control module or engine coolant temperature as sensed by the radiator thermoswitch triggers fan control module. But if either input is faulty, like the HVAC one in your case, the fan will be forced to operate. Because they are sensing the need for cooling of two different heat exchangers, it wouldn't be wise to design it so that both inputs must agree.

^ Good explanation, thanks for saving me thinking about it. Tiny correction being that the radiator (dual) thermoswitch is the other input (on this car) that feeds into the fan control module , not the engine ECU; I think.

Tell me your engine code and I'll see if there's a fuse you should check. If you don't know what an engine code is, follow the link in my signature.

I would be interested in having a look at the old one if you would consider sending it to me Ryan? Obviously not until you've definitely got a fix with the new one.

The connections relevant to fan activation are pins 8 and 9 of the 16-pin connector at the Climatronic unit, so follow circuitry towards what's pulling each of those to ground/0V to trigger the relays in the fan control module. I expect you will find one of those pins is shorted to 0V all the time.

Great news. I suspect a FET transistor has failed short-circuit.

The carrier seals still leak even if the door is draining 100% perfectly. The problem isn't really that the doors fill up, it's that water gets (mis)directed onto the back face of the carriers as shown in the picture above in @garibaldy's link.

Tayna, not Tanya.

Don't think there is one?

Suffix G part superseded the suffix C part in Oct 2008, so either should be fine. Sounds pricey though for used.

Nicely matched levels of overkill!

Inspect the connector of the refrigerant pressure sensor in the high pressure line near the engine coolant expansion tank (look for corrosion). Or look at VCDS data for refrigerant pressure in measuring blocks of HVAC module. See what numbers it shows. You can probably look at measuring blocks in there which say if the HVAC module is demanding fan function (at stage 1 (slow) or stage 2 (full speed)). It is OK/normal for the fan to run when A/C is switched on even if the engine coolant is completely cold; refrigerant pressure >9 bar will trigger stage 1, and >16bar stage 2, even with no heat in the engine coolant. But if you switch off A/C the fan should go off, as it should if the pressure drops below 12 bar (stage 2 down to stage 1) or 6.3 bar (stage 1 off). Those observations are based on a climatic rather than climatronic system, but I don't know why there would be any difference.

Found some helpful info re cruise, I think. See post by Nathan G here: Vag-com cruise control programming - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA Follow the link in his post to the archived guide, then do the bit under the Enable Cruise Control using VAG-COM/VCDS Looks like you go in via the 'log in' button, not the recode button. Edit: when I say 'do the bit under...' I suggest you do plenty more research before just doing anything. Not sure how specific that info may be to mk1 Fabia vRS, or whether that code is going to be applicable to your ECU. Reckon it'll turn out to be doable though. Video that doesn't need the sound on! How to activate cruise control VCDS - YouTube

No it's all behind that wall, but I find it quite a low one. If you look under the 'Individual vehicle information' tab, then 'repair info', you can get to info about absolutely anything to do with any Skoda model, in downloadable pdf form. With a bit of planning you'll probably have downloaded everything you can possibly imagine might be relevant before a 1 hour 'flat rate' session expires; connection/bandwidth and storage space permitting.

Photo?