Breezy_Pete

I've got a picture of the one I use somewhere I think, but can't find it. Did find this that I've written on here in the past: "The one I use is a shade over 48mm O/D, but measuring the recess it looks like anything under 50mm O/D should fit."

Heat it with a blowtorch, then try. Back and forth, back and forth.

Buy a genuine new one, they're only about £12.

Reminds me of this day:

Water drain hole, I should think.

When ambient temperatures are cool, it can take a minute or two before refrigerant pressure rises enough to trigger fan operation when A/C is switched on. Thermostat not opening correctly is vastly more likely than radiator blockage, but if the engine is not overheating this is unlikely.

Very few in this subforum will have any knowledge or experience of a 2.0tdi vRS Octavia mk2. You really will be better off starting your own thread in here: Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013) - BRISKODA I can almost guarantee that the problems you are having aren't being caused by faulty expansion tank caps though. Best of luck with it.

Can you see the top edge of it from any vantage point? See 2nd photo here for example: Skoda Superb B8 (3V) 2016 Front AC cooling radiator condenser Diesel 1kW DSG3677 | eBay

Depends on your perspective whether that's a good or a bad thing. For a lot of people today, purchase price is a significant barrier to EV ownership, and in some of those cases (like mine) range is almost irrelevant; my daily commute is only 5 miles each way. I can/will slow charge at home without any cost other than the leccy. I'll never spend tens of thousands on a new car of any type, but I will buy 'end of life' cars that I know I can maintain cheaply myself. Just depends where your financial priorities lie. Horses for courses.

Find a forum member nearby that can use their VCDS on your car for a beer token or two? https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=209732397261666218585.0004c66cecde3f435ecb4&msa=0

That blue light will show red instead if the engine gets too hot, so you might be worrying for no reason? Check owner's manual to confirm.

Advertised capacity and real world capacity are unlikely to be exactly the same, even in optimal ambient temperatures. Where in the world are you and what ambient temperatures are you experiencing at the moment?

What ambient temperatures are you driving in at the moment? If the lower radiator hose isn't getting hot after a longer drive - 20 minutes for example - the thermostat may not be working. Are you getting a warning of overheating?

The OP was asking about coolant getting into his oil and wondering if it was via his oil cooler, my answer was referring to what typically happens if an oil cooler develops a leak. You seem to be interested in over-pressurised coolant, which isn't the same scenario? For coolant to be overpressurised it's either overheating, or combustion gases are getting in somewhere, via fire-rings of the HG, crack in head, EGR cooler leak etc.

Wow, fast work, well done.

I don't know, never tried (nor on RHD but I suspect the same work is needed), probably just the plastic cover under the steering wheel, two screws? Can't remember which type. Edit: not as simple as that sadly, perhaps not surprisingly.

engine control unit; lambda probe; knock sensor; i... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2001 year] (7zap.com) (5th from last item 12) Fabia Octavia Golf Caddy Audi A2 Front Lambda Probe 1K0998262G Was 047906262 | eBay Shade over £50 for genuine, with Offer option

I think it must be a fault in the ignition switch. perfect spelling

Try it with the ignition switch turned to the first click round, one before the position where warning lights come on.

Hope you get over the illness promptly and find a new and better job too. All the best.

XZN-headed bolts have size descriptions that sound like thread-size descriptions (M5, M6, M8 etc.) but confusingly there isn't actually a 1:1 correlation between bolt thread size and the tool sizes that fit in the heads. The two measuring systems on this page give alternative ways of determining which size XZN tool you need: triplesquaretable.pdf (metalnerd.com)

This is a petrol engine, isn't it? Must be something very wrong to be putting out 6-7% CO at idle. Never be in an enclosed space with engine running before that's sorted.

It would be easy enough to temporarily remove a fuse or two to make sure the ABS system was inactive, and see what changes? Would you like me to see which fuse(s) are relevant?

@Nivek74; why not send me the (Polo) module referred to here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499167-electric-window-problem/ and I'll check it over for you to see if it has the problem I expect. If it has I'll extend my 20% off offer mentioned above to you. If not I'll return it FOC. Do check that fuse though.

No luck retrieving your original module?