Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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Ah, sorry, ignore me!
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Check that (damage to) your locking wheel nut key isn't the problem, if you plan to retain them.
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It's not CAN, @J.R. and @Douwe, not on this car. There are 4 wires but the two that aren't ignition switched 12V and earth go to either side of the motor at the washer pump on the fluid reservoir (as well as elsewhere). ErWin Skoda will sell you schematics for 7 euros plus tax, or I may be able to find some info later this evening.
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One more question for you: Do your numberplate lights work, and if not, have you checked/changed fuse 36?
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Were replacement dimmer switch and light switches new items?
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Yes LEDs, and no chance they've all died at once. I'll try to have a look at some circuit diagrams for you tomorrow to see if anything suggests itself. Does your cabin fan work OK, and foglight(s)?
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There are no push-on wires/terminals on a Fabia Ken. Proper latching two-pin connectors at rear of alt and at the plug/skt pair on gearbox bracket.
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Intrigued to know what's caused that to happen. Clip looks to be unclipped, I think, but how? why?
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No reference to EGR in the parts catalogue as far as I can see on that code: engine Octavia (OCT) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com) intake system; vacuum system - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)
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Probably, yes. What year and engine code?
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I guess you mean, "the connector to my sump sensor came off"? Can you not reconnect it?
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Oh, that must mean VW group locks last indefinitely then...
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Yes, I drive cars older than 10.
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Most likely a wire on the verge of failing, on its way into the tailgate, I suspect. Delve inside the rubber/plastic bellows to inspect.
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A reconditioned caliper isn't inferior to a new one, and such re-use of material resources should be seen as a good thing in my book. Rebates are a good way of preventing wastage.
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The physicist Lord Kelvin stated: “When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind; it may be the beginning of knowledge, but you have scarcely, in your thoughts advanced to the stage of science.”
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Scan again to see the exact faults, @Urrell may have been spot on about there being a fault that's unrelated to battery charge level. Will be upsetting to spend hundreds on battery replacement and still have the faults.
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If it doesn't say AGM it won't be one. Can you check what fault codes are back?
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I'm happy that worked out well for you. I get the impression you do a heck of a lot more driving than I do. So far my choice has always worked out well for me too, as it has for Jmagee.
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To halve the wear and tear rate on the lock mechanisms/motors. And if you feel the threat level is negligible due to location and journey destinations as mentioned. Both apply to me.
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Fair enough. I wonder if some pipework in/out of the EGR might be (partially) blocked, causing sensors to perceive a flow fault with the EGR itself? If that's what those codes relate to. Has the car had the emissions 'fix'?
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The momentum of the car keeps the engine rotating, because it's still connected by being in gear. Accurate mpg figures are easy to produce for each tankful when refilled to (say) the first click. Simply note down miles covered since previous refill, then zero the trip meter each time you fill; convert number of litres of refill into gallons (divide by 4.55) and divide previous trip meter reading by number of gallons just used to refill. That's how many miles your car did per gallon on average, during the previous tankful. Doesn't everyone have a spreadsheet of these records? Alternative is to use a website such as fuelly.com or spritmonitor.de where you just feed in your data and it does the sums for you; watch your unit selections though.
