Breezy_Pete

Read fault codes before deciding on the cause of the warning light.

Have you checked this?

Munching some food now, but I seem to remember that a member with a rather inappropriate/over-modest username works in the battery industry and has previously commented about the robustness of the cars' systems with regards to 'sorting themselves out' irrespective of coding. @BigEjit are you able to assist, please? Completely understand if you don't wish to comment if it might come back at you professionally somehow.

Will have another look later, just off out to gym. Looked at a quick glance to be good, plausible engineering sense to me, and Banner are a VW group OEM I think.

Some great info here about the self-learning which makes coding just a 'speeds up the process' thing: ⊳ Registering the battery - How to do it properly ❘ Banner know-how (bannerbatterien.com) An 'executive summary' type quote from that page: Conclusion: Purchasing and BEM coding an original replacement battery instead of a replacement battery from the independent aftermarket –– which does not have BEM coding –– only has the short-term advantage that the complete functionality of all systems is immediately available. Please note: The battery reaches this functionality without BEM code, usually also after some time and various „trigger events“ (impulses, signals e.g. starts, cold starts, cycles). [My emphasis/greening, their original red words]

Extract a small amount from the expansion tank and pop it in the freezer? Pipettes x 10 : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Was the old alt pulley maybe moved across to the new alt?

Leave it on the car, connect it up as per the manual and you have more chance of things settling down.

It won't have done the battery any harm.

^ So that the car's battery monitoring system knows that it is being charged.

Fingers crossed that it doesn't tell you anything too sad.

You can buy a compression tester for about £15.

I would get a compression test if there's nothing obviously wrong with the spark plug on cylinder 3.

What is making you think they keep failing, fault codes? Have you tried swapping them around to see if fault follows coilpack? Is it the 6-valve 54bhp or 12-valve 64? Which cylinder is giving the trouble?

Have you checked the spark plug(s)?

I'd have a few more goes with the charger, since you have it.

I just knew you'd be along at some point to be a miseryguts. If you don't want to play, don't.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497987-engine-code-and-why-its-useful-to-know/

Pic of bolt head?

Awoken to power outage, so it may have to be the big petrol one instead!

Sadly, you both live far away, so no danger of that. I think I'd like it if you were neighbours. 🙂

I'm hoping to use my plug-in electric chainsaw tomorrow. Guess I should try to pick a break in the rain?

If anyone is being put off the idea of using this service due to the 'downtime' or inconvenience of having to visit the car twice, once to remove the module, once a few days later to refit the repaired original, I may be able to offer a slightly different arrangement. An exchange system where part of the price is refundable on receipt of your original. You let me know you need a replacement/repair job, either by posting in this thread or private message. Include full car details (year/model/number of electric windows) please. If I have a repaired and fully functional unit suitable for your car, I'll let you know. The initial price will be higher than for a repair, but there will be a proportion of the price that will be refundable once I receive your original, non-working motor module in return. It will have to be that exact module (the original your car was built with), so I know which car it suits. You would pay up front, receive a working motor module in the post from me a couple of days later, swap that into your car and send me the original in the post. This way you can get in behind the door-card just the once, to remove original and fit replacement. £119 for this variant, with £60 of that as a refund to be returned to you once I have your original in hand. So final cost to you will be £59 plus your postage cost for the return. I think the added convenience of this for you, my customer, may be attractive? If I have your unit type available, it'll be already packaged ready to post, so I should be able to post it out the day you message me if it's before about 4pm and we can sort payment out promptly (mouse over my username on the left to get a pop-up including 'Message' option) .

Any of the four numbers next to "Škoda part number" on this page: EGR Valve TDI Wahler 038129637D (skoda-parts.com)

Thanks for the info xman, looks very easy to fit compared to the whole timing case removal that the HTP requires! Suffix D or F by the looks of it, from previous discussion of engine build date on page 3