Breezy_Pete

Yeah, I'll get you a screenshot of pin layout. Was the sensor end connector moist inside?

Almost a year on and I thought I should update this in case anyone ever reads it and wonders what happened. The NHS route proved to be a bit messy, eventually getting offered an ultrasound scan somewhere in north Wales and declining it on the basis that so much seemed to be stacking up in favour of just leaving it and doing nothing. Private consultations and scans were priced up but not followed up on a cost/benefit judgement. Back to the gym tentatively in May when things started opening up again, and finding to my significant surprise that the right arm still worked just as well as before! No right shoulder pain (which used to be a chronic problem) and apart from the bulginess when working hard, no pain or other obvious deficit in the right bicep. No cramping. My sports massage guy reckons it has re-attached itself to something, possibly the other 'cep', without any active measures. Sailboat racing has also resumed without any apparent issues, in fact I've been winning more than usual. Stronger winds in the coming months may be a tougher test though. Overall I think I'm better off than before the tendon rupture. Who'dathunkit?

All fuel injected cars have a coolant temperature sensor.

I'll try asking this again; what (exact) oil is in the engine? Is there anything to make you think the engine might be running hotter than normal? Put the A/C on and check to see if the rad fans are working.

03D198819A, item 14: oil pump; oil filter; oil dipstick - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com) That includes the big o-ring that seals the top of the housing.

It seems to be the norm with VW group, possibly policy to dissuade amateurs from mending their own cars. Obtaining the full 'car data' from an obliging parts department employee, or yourself via erWin for a small fee (<£10) is the solution, and will give you all of the PR codes, far more than what is shown on the sticker.

This test should really have found this problem, I'm not sure why it didn't improve things; can you remember what thickness the parallel cable was, and length? When you say 6mm cable do you mean 6mm² cross-sectional area? If so that sounds thinner than I would choose if I were fitting a replacement cable. I would go for at least 10mm² if not 16. Well done for your persistence and eventual success.

Welcome to Briskoda. I don't think any Fabias have an oil gauge, other than some that may have a digital oil temperature readout? I speculate that you actually mean a coolant temperature gauge, as shown in the image below? Changing instrument clusters may be tricky, with coding needed, so I suspect it'll be more trouble than it's worth.

Scuttle area drain exits tend to be behind the front wheel arch plastic liners on models I'm familiar with, which doesn't include yours unfortunately.

Yep. Pin 1 of the sensor connector goes via a blue wire to pin 112 on the ECU connector, pin 2 at the sensor connector via brown wire to pin 104 at ECU. Look for signs of fluid inside the connector housings at both ends, as well as any sign of dirty or corroded contacts. I know you'll want to fix it regardless, but it shouldn't actually be a problem at MOT if the light stays on. Note the last sentence here, your car is too old to have the MOT test care about the MIL status: Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or ‘EML’) Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off. You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008. From here: 8. Nuisance - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Keep checking it each time you get in the car, before starting the engine (or even putting the keys in the ignition). If the numbers are always above 12.2 say, and stay consistent from one day to the next, things are OK. If you see a downwards trend in the voltages from one day to the next for a few days, and it looks like it will dip below 12.0, try to do a journey of a few more miles to give it a bit more charging time.

It's the figure shown before you start the engine that is the one to really keep an eye on @Vanwin. What do you see at that stage?

Not that I can see on wiring diagram.

Yeah, almost certainly not worth it.

The 12 valve 64bhp version is definitely interference. I expect the 6-valve may be too.

Part seems to be the first item 1A here: exhaust pipe with catalyst; ----------------------... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) (view on a computer, not phone to see all the info). Part number 1K0254500QX. Superseded in Aug 2012 by 1K0254506HX apparently Buy 1K0254500QX exhaust pipe with catalyst Skoda, Volkswagen genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com) Not sure that helps massively though. Welcome to Briskoda, by the way.

I can only speculate that you have read the pin numbering wrongly. On mk2 Fabia I think the LIN connection at pin 17 should be found to be a grey/white wire.

I think the spec for 2000rpm is 2 bar minimum at operating temp, that's about 29psi. Edit: according to this page I'm wrong about that 2 bar, for this engine, it is 1.5 minimum at 2000 rpm Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Power unit > 1.6/55; 66; 77 kW TDI CR Engine > Engine lubrication > Removing and installing parts of the lubrication system > Testing oil pressure and oil pressure switch (workshop-manuals.com)

This suggests there may be a real problem with the pressure, I fear. What pressure was measured at what rpm by the garage? What oil is in the engine and when was it last changed, along with the filter?

Unplug the connector from the pressure switch after you've started the engine. Get an assistant to short the loom wire connection continuously to chassis/engine/battery negative with a separate wire while you raise the revs above 1500. If the fault indication is still generated, there is a break in the wiring somewhere. If there is now no warning above 1500, the wiring is OK. The switch is in conducting state (to engine metalwork) when the pressure is good/above threshold, and non-conducting when the pressure is below, so disconnected wire gives the same fault indication as actual low pressure.

Look for an 8-way connector plug/socket pair somewhere around the alternator and A/C compressor area. Two of the wires coming off that are going to the intake air temperature sensor G42, along with two others going to the charge pressure sender G31 which are housed in the same physical package. Pins 5, 6, 7 and 8 of this 8-way go to the 4-way connector at the sensor, which will be on some intake air ducting nearby. On a contemporary Fabia, they are coloured brown, yellow, green and white between 8-way and sensor. Don't have wiring info for your Seat but it's the wire going to 2 (yellow in Fabia) of the sensor connector that is most likely to compromise the temperature info without also affecting the pressure reading if any wires are broken. On Fabia this yellow wire changes to a white one at pin 7 of the 8-way connector pair, on its way to the engine ECU. pin 30. Experience suggests that a broken wire is more likely than a failed sensor, though either is possible. Check both sides of the 8 way connector pair as far as you can.

Is it? What voltage is it showing? You seem to revel in being wrong sometimes Ken. Probably best if I pop you on ignore. Cheers.

Not on a mk1 or mk2 Fabia, to the best of my knowledge. They use a Gen2 bearing set-up like the one shown here: VW POLO (6R) 2009>2015 FRONT HUB WHEEL BEARING KIT WITH ABS **BRAND NEW** | eBay all integrated with the hub and ABS magnetic ring. Don't think it's possible to remove those from the bearing housing non-destructively; and they need special tooling to install, as demonstrated e.g. here:

Mmm kay. Next time you look at an LCD display in your car somewhere while it's not displaying anything, see if you can see the 7 individual segments plus one for the decimal place, for each character like you can in Carlston's photo. Or see if it looks more like this: In LED displays, the individual elements of the digits light up. In LCDs they don't. LCDs with no backlight on are incredibly power miserly, LEDs not so much.

It is a fun thing to drive, suits the car well I think. I've no experience of driving diesels. 🙂