Breezy_Pete

You'll be fine then. Not sure what you would see if it genuinely can't communicate; I vaguely remember trying to scan workmates' cars that needed the CAN-based interface and it just being clear that it wasn't compatible. Don't recall the exact error messages though. As per the function chart, the unregistered version won't do autoscan, but you can just select each module of interest individually and scan/tweak once you're connected. Don't make any changes to anything before making sure you have a record of the pre-change value.

That light just means 'emissions systems fault' I think. No DPF or anything like it to worry about on your car; so seek out the nearest VCDS-owning member who might scan your car for what the light means in your case, or take to a garage for diagnostics.

Is there actually any problem?

Oh yeah, all mk1s play nicely with VCDS Lite. One thing I would mention at this point @WezFab is that it can take a bit of messing about with ports and settings to get the cable/software combo working once plugged into a car. Don't give up at the first error message, by any means. Help info will come with the cable I expect; and I also seem to remember there are some de-snagging FAQ bits and pieces on the ross-tech site; their search function is not bad, I think.

You can download the wiring info yourself by going to this thread, clicking 'download ' then the fifth file option CFD 2000-2002. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/

I'll have a look at wiring info tomorrow and see if that suggests a diagnostic strategy.

@CarloskiRegarding emissions in relation to MOTs and vehicle excise duty; different emissions. MOT measures a limited range (different for diesel engines and petrol) of pollutants which does not include CO2. It only looks at emissions that cause poor air quality and health issues, particularly in urban areas Road tax/VED is/was based instead on CO2 outputs to encourage manufacturers to make, and drivers to buy cars that contribute less to climate change through CO2. CO2 output levels are directly proportional to the fuel usage rate of the vehicle; but they aren't a toxic air quality problem. You can ace an MOT test with a massive, inefficient vehicle despite it using vast amounts of fuel and emitting correspondingly earth-scorching levels of CO2, but it doesn't make it environmentally friendly, it just means MOT doesn't measure CO2. Since you are driving an older vehicle that has excellent fuel economy (hence low CO2) and the car is producing less than the limits of the other pollutants that MOT does measure, you can be pretty happy that you are doing a good thing for both local/urban and global environments though. 🙂

What year is the car?

There may not be any sensors that actually measure oil pressure. Most engines just have a below/above threshold pressure switch, whose state you may be able to observe.

Nice to get some balance from an ev adopter who isn't in full-time propaganda mode. 🙂 There are a few around who are so evangelical and preachy that they probably put more people off than they enthuse. 4/5 not going back is the way the data looks to me though, not surprised from California where air quality is such a big problem.

And most of the way up the rear edge.

Oh, that's a bummer. Worth fitting the spare you bought and hoping it was coded close enough in its previous life such that everything works? Return the relay for a refund, by all means.

Rear door leaks are very rarely caused by the seals you can see.

Awkward stuff in footwell areas can sometimes be made much easier by removing the front seat, so you can get into more favourable positions. 4 XZN-head screws and maybe a connector under it and out it comes.

Are you sure those settings are stored remotely? Seems more probable to me that they would be stored within car or keys.

Access to the exit of the scuttle drain on pollen filter side is almost certainly just behind the rear half of the NSF wheel arch liner. You'd be able to scoop out blockage with a screwdriver or similar; if you prefer taking a wheel off and a bunch of torx fasteners holding the plastic on, rather than going in from above. This is on a mk1:

The mating half is what the red arrow is pointing to in this pic, posted just a few posts ago. The two wires coming off it are sleeved in black convoluted plastic protection. They often break at the point they come out of that just at the cable entry of the connector.

There are definitely two wires visible, marked with violet and blue arrows here. The mating half of the connector is where they continue off towards the alternator, over where the red rectangle is. You'll see a blue and brown coming out of that mating connector, or you should.

That might still be OK. Piggy-back fuseholder (example) in that position 30 with 15Amp fuses in both parts, then cut up a spare fuse to leave just one bare contact and solder it carefully to the end of the wire coming off the piggyback. Make sure the whole part that normally goes into the fuseholder is as it was. Plug that into the contact of position 47 that isn't always live (the one going off to the accessory socket).

On the left of the picture, yes, looks like one half of the connector pair. 😊 From that angle it looks like both wires going into that half are intact, so see what the wires look like coming out of the mating connector even further to the left of that shot. Edit: do your reversing lights work? The other connector shown by that photo is the one on the reverse light switch in the gearbox, and it looks like it's suffered some significant trauma!

Is there a fuse in position 30, neighbour of 47 in the other row? I might have an idea if there isn't.

Cable example: VW Audi Seat Skoda USB Interface for VAG-COM 409.1 or VCDS Lite - most VAG 1996-2003 (gendan.co.uk) (what I have). Cheaper ones can be had via ebay, but can't make any specific recommendations. Avoid ones that come with software on CD, likely to bring spyware with them, and the software is a free download! Software Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite: Download Ross-tech's function chart (Functions - Ross-Tech Wiki) suggests that Lite can do coding even in its unregistered state, but I can't personally confirm that as I have registered mine and never tried beforehand. Well worth trying to do what you need on the unregistered version, it'll just be greyed out if you can't do something, I guess.

Different Kev, according to this page. 03L198119 with no suffix for the CBBB; 03L198119D for a CFGB engine made on or after 30/11/2010. repair kit for toothed belt with tensioning rolle... - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com) (view on computer, not phone to see all the info) Neither the suffix B version nor the suffix D is shown as a superseding part number for the 03L198119, so I expect there is some difference, no idea what though.

Have you removed the D-pillar trim to see what access holes there may be nearby? Happened to me on my Polo a while back, and there was a hole close enough that I could stick a nut to the end of a bit of coathanger wire or similar, and carefully position it where the old one had fallen out from.

If anything internal was different, it would have a different code, I think.