Breezy_Pete

Some relevant discussion about VW's change to oil classifications in this thread back in July, see especially comments from member 'weasley': https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495134-urgent-help-oil-compatibility-fabia-mk2-2007-12-htp-60-cv/?do=findComment&comment=5556916

Assuming "dual mass flywheel" is the subject of the question, I think yes must be the answer.

Will have a look tomorrow. 🙂

10 minute job max if you know what you're doing. Have a look on youtube, you may find that you're happy to give it a go yourself. If it fixes it, the diagnosis is "that was the problem", if it doesn't it wasn't.

(10) Multimeter Fuse Replacement and Checking - YouTube

You may as well try to return it; no need to mention any suspicions you might have about causation.

Yes, current ranges generally have replaceable fuses in the back of the meter, so overloads don't completely destroy. Reading 0.00 sounds suspiciously like a blown fuse (easily done). May be a screw or two to remove to get there. That 10.something volts battery is not likely to have a future, sadly.

Alarm going off suggests that you didn't successfully maintain the circuit until the clamp was back down on the battery post. Any chance you've blown a fuse in the meter? Can you check it?

Any VW/Skoda specialist independent should be happy to do it.

Getting the gear cables reset would be a very sensible first step. Youtube can probably show you how.

At first glance I'd say M18; item 18 here: steering wheel; D >> - 27.01.2013; ; ;... - Roomster(RO) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) Maybe search that part number on here to see if that leads to any confirmation or other info. N90799102

N290 has a 12V feed (blue/red wire, from engine bay fuse 14) on pin 2, and pin 1 goes to engine ECU pin 60, with a blue/black wire. I imagine this connection is PWM controlled inside the ECU to vary the solenoid valve opening/closing amount. If that blue/black wire is short-circuit to chassis/engine metalwork somewhere, the valve will be 100% closed. Similarly, a short circuit to ground/0V on the wiring to either G61 or G83 may be causing the ECU to wrongly conclude that there is a very high temperature in the cooling system. Look for areas that wiring may have rubbed on metal parts.

Check the bolt, then wonder about alternative explanations.

This looks like it here, I think. If it only has a single wire connection, that's almost sure to be the oil pressure switch:

Hello and welcome. Engine code would help, look on the build codes sticker in the boot, or service book. I'll try to find without, but always easier with.

But not the gearbox, so...no 'similar' length bolts.

An insider's view, unsurprising but good to hear from the horse's mouth as it were: "in a nutshell,the media is the problem" https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/359211-is-everyone-panic-buying-petrol/?do=findComment&comment=2738265

In a 'Polo' folder, but I think everything's the same. Red annotations are the console-to-subframe plus rack mounting 84mm long bolts, I think. The item 23 (M10x61) rack-killer one is just about readable in the original diagram with its dotted lines.

It's the dogbone engine mount rear bolt (item 23 in below link) getting mixed up with the gearbox-to-engine bolts that's usually where things go haywire, mostly during clutch work. It's 61mm long and goes up right underneath the left side of the rack tube. Some of the gearbox bolts are 65mm which is long enough to dent the rack tube underside if switched. The bolts that hold the rack onto the subframe are the same ones that hold the subframe to consoles I think, item 8 at 84mm long: mounting parts for engine and transmission - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) Not the clearest diagram in the world ever. I've got an annotated version somewhere that tries to clarify what goes where, but I predictably can't find it just now. Removing that bolt 23 and measuring from underside to tip would be reassuring/condemning. Very hard to see the point where it emerges under the rack.

Your meter's saying mA AC, you need it set to DC. Yellow button? Have an assistant hold one of the probes, maybe the one straight down on the battery post, then you can focus on keeping the other one on the negative clamp as you lift it away.

I'm so sensible I filled up last week.

Main beam bulbs share a fuse (36) after the dip/flash switch I think, but if that were blown then you wouldn't get them working for flash? Check it anyway.

You can download the wiring diagrams at erWin Skoda for a small fee. That can give you big pdfs with all the info about all versions of Roomster; or via a different tab you can see and print but not download specific diagrams relating to your VIN, I believe, though I've not looked in that area much myself. The big pdf for all Roomsters from March 2010 to April 2012 runs to 4210 pdf pages so I suspect you'll want to go to the VIN-specific info... Interpreting and understanding them is not totally easy, but doable with patience. I have my doubts about there being a relay in the system. Do the headlights have twin-filament bulbs, or separate dipped and main beam bulbs?

Humans are generally not sensible about anything, so expect short-term chaos. Fortunately, people don't have much storage for petrol other than their fuel tanks, so it should fizzle out rather quickly. I question the format of the thread title if being sensible is what the OP really wants, even if intended to be ironic.

If anyone near me geographically has a pre-facelift mk2 Fabia and would like me to try a free scan, please get in touch!