Breezy_Pete

Oil pressure warning is a separate system @J.R.. As I understand it, this is about the sump sensor, which is just temperature and level. I've never experimented, but I suspect oil level warnings may still be operational even if the oil temperature is not being displayed. I guess just unplugging the sensor may be the safest test of that, compared to progressive emptying of sump to see if a level warning is triggered. I might try that (unplugging) later on my Polo to see what warnings I get.

You can still see oil temperature, I guess?

I bet there are some people dumb enough to actually go driving around deliberately to use up fuel so that they can refill their tanks after queueing for a while.

I only skimmed the vid but the idea is to free the cables off so they can move relative to the end fittings, then lock both ends, the gearstick position and the selector mech at the gearbox in their 'calibration' positions, then re-connect the cables with no slack.

Good thinking. That may well be right. Yep.

I think you missed that @J.R. was joking, as hinted at by the

@Lambo1 did you get this sorted: Faulty Electric Windows with 4 Mechanics Saying Different Things - Skoda Roomster Mk I - BRISKODA ? As you can see, in the post above this one, I believe I've now found out how to fix these modules. If you're still struggling with a non-working or intermittent one, I could maybe fix it? No charge if I can't, and 20% off as my first paying customer if I can?

Interesting. That fuse also powers a thing called "N79 Heating resistor for crankcase ventilation" on some cars (wiring diagram says "* only on vehicles with optional equipment"). Those heaters have been known to fail short circuit and blow their fuse. I wonder if someone in the past has removed this fuse to stop it blowing without realising it also powers the MAF? Keep an eye on it and find and unplug that heater if the fuse blows again. It has yellow/red and brown wires going to it, not sure of location though, or what optional equipment leads to it being fitted.

When he pulls back the springs to free the fingers they can then effectively land back on a different part of the cable after the gearshift mechanism and the gearstick are both locked in the setting position. so the cables end up being adjusted to just the right lengths for everything to be optimal in terms of the gearstick movements.

Will you feed back how to fix it to Skoda/dealer if it does keep working?

@KenONeill great advice if it were actually a nut...

Never rely solely on brake wear indicators, but also best not to rely on dealerships for unbiased, accurate info. Get a second opinion elsewhere, or better still, check things yourself.

Waste of money if not leaking, but neither of those sizes. 45mm outside diameter, I think. Check by measuring on a section that's relatively uncorroded.

I suspect that the recent addition of those disclaimers indicates that more people have signed up to providers claiming to use exclusively renewable sources than those sources can possibly provide, on average. It's clearly nonsense to imagine that if everyone just signed up to one of these 'green' suppliers, then all of the UK's leccy will suddenly become renewable. Yet hard to imagine any of them turning down new customers on the basis "we just don't have enough renewable power to accept you"...

@Johnmarsh I saw a reference somewhere that said there's no relation between the 'M' size of the XZN tool that fits in the head and the metric thread description of the screw part, so don't buy an M18 tool. Just found a very handy link to a pdf with metric and imperial measurements that will enable you to check yourself the size of XZN bit required, I've learned something today! triplesquaretable.pdf (metalnerd.com)

Bear in mind that the tool size isn't always the same as the thread size shown on ETKA for XZN type screws, so it might be a smaller tool than M18. Couple of forum results for that part number say it's an M12 XZN tool. e.g. here: Jetta MK6 MFSW Retrofit DIY | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum and Removing steering wheel | polo.blue Second link has some really nice photos and stuff about it about 2/3 of the way down the page.

Torx is a 6-point thing. This will be 12-point XZN style I expect. Google image the part number to see.

Was the same thing happening before the clutch and flywheel were changed? Or was that before your ownership?

EV smuggists should learn to focus their arguments on urban air quality, where they do have 'clear' advantages.

You don't need 504 if you're doing annual changes, unless mileage per year is high.

Some relevant discussion about VW's change to oil classifications in this thread back in July, see especially comments from member 'weasley': https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495134-urgent-help-oil-compatibility-fabia-mk2-2007-12-htp-60-cv/?do=findComment&comment=5556916

Assuming "dual mass flywheel" is the subject of the question, I think yes must be the answer.

Will have a look tomorrow. 🙂

10 minute job max if you know what you're doing. Have a look on youtube, you may find that you're happy to give it a go yourself. If it fixes it, the diagnosis is "that was the problem", if it doesn't it wasn't.

(10) Multimeter Fuse Replacement and Checking - YouTube