Breezy_Pete

It shouldn't; when working well they are quite smooth. How many miles has it done? Find someone local with VCDS to scan the car, or invest in the necessary cheap cable and free software to do so yourself. Could be your EGR valve sticking sometimes, but not often enough to trigger a fault light. VCDS might spot logged codes that could shed some light on things. Inspect the servo hose (visually and by fingertip feel) anyway, it costs nothing but a few minutes of your time.

I've made provision for EV-driving guests to charge at 13 amps/3kW with minimal effort or cost to me (calling that a derogatory-sounding term like 'granny charging' seems rude and likely to discourage rather than encourage people to facilitate EV use). Maybe I'll live long enough to use it on an EV of my own one day, you never know.

You have a MAP sensor rather than a MAF, but I doubt it's that. Is the car the 6-valve 54bhp variant or 12-valve 64bhp? Does it seem to run any differently, perhaps at idle? It's always an idea to inspect the brake servo vacuum hose for splitting on VW-group cars, they can sometimes leak air and badly affect engine running. Here's a typical failed/failing one:

Why not edit your first post so it makes more sense then?

Did you mean to write EV there, not ICE?

@MATT0693 the PR code for the rear brakes is usually on the sticker, but I think the one for the front brakes rarely if ever is shown there.

Yep, follow the link in my signature, or just send me a private message.

Plastic.

Not done on a Citigo, but your approach sounds fine to me. Bleeding order is pretty much irrelevant I think if you have a pressure bleeder. Not sure I'd bother with the clutch bleeding 'cos the slave cylinder is in a fairly cool location compared to the brakes so I wouldn't expect much local degradation; but if you want to, just follow the pipework from brake master cylinder to clutch master and then on to the slave. Any DOT4 will do fine, yes.

"Terminal 30" is a description in wiring diagrams of anything and everything that is directly connected to battery positive, so I wonder if this is saying "try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery" Hardware equivalent of "Your computer needs to be restarted to finish this software update"? Just a guess. Not obvious to me why they couldn't or wouldn't have just done that while they had the car though.

^ Yep. Newton's first law says "If you can keep the speed constant you'll use much less diesel, weight loading almost irrelevant; it's only the aero drag and mechanical frictional losses you have to overcome" (paraphrasing into context).

Diesel engine, presumably?

You will be able to get a full 'car data' pdf via erWin Skoda for a small fee, but possibly worth trying to get the same info for free by directly asking for it at the parts counter, face to face whilst/after buying some cheap consumable.

Check for loss of engine coolant from the expansion tank, but otherwise nothing to worry about. Steam and carbon dioxide are the two main reaction products from burning hydrocarbon fuels. Neither are visible in warm weather; but in cold weather the steam can become visible as it condenses. Is this your first winter with this car?

They are separated. Either refrigerant pressure reported to HVAC module triggers fan control module or engine coolant temperature as sensed by the radiator thermoswitch triggers fan control module. But if either input is faulty, like the HVAC one in your case, the fan will be forced to operate. Because they are sensing the need for cooling of two different heat exchangers, it wouldn't be wise to design it so that both inputs must agree.

^ Good explanation, thanks for saving me thinking about it. Tiny correction being that the radiator (dual) thermoswitch is the other input (on this car) that feeds into the fan control module , not the engine ECU; I think.

Tell me your engine code and I'll see if there's a fuse you should check. If you don't know what an engine code is, follow the link in my signature.

I would be interested in having a look at the old one if you would consider sending it to me Ryan? Obviously not until you've definitely got a fix with the new one.

The connections relevant to fan activation are pins 8 and 9 of the 16-pin connector at the Climatronic unit, so follow circuitry towards what's pulling each of those to ground/0V to trigger the relays in the fan control module. I expect you will find one of those pins is shorted to 0V all the time.

Great news. I suspect a FET transistor has failed short-circuit.

The carrier seals still leak even if the door is draining 100% perfectly. The problem isn't really that the doors fill up, it's that water gets (mis)directed onto the back face of the carriers as shown in the picture above in @garibaldy's link.

Tayna, not Tanya.

Don't think there is one?

Suffix G part superseded the suffix C part in Oct 2008, so either should be fine. Sounds pricey though for used.

Nicely matched levels of overkill!