Breezy_Pete

LED not LCD, which itself will cause a little extra drain on the battery if left plugged in permanently. Use sparingly to build up a picture of what's going on, rather than ongoing; especially if the present journey pattern persists.

Clean it all up, make sure your crankcase ventilation system is in excellent condition and then monitor over the coming weeks. It may well be a symptom of a blocked breather pipe, which may disappear if that's resolved. Unless the clutch has ever been done in the first 120k it will almost certainly make sense to change it if you do end up pulling the gearbox to do the seal. Could also be gearbox oil rather than engine oil, but does look blacker like engine oil.

People who use fuelly.com, spritmonitor.de or other similar sites that may exist; or who just keep good records of every litres to brim-full against trip meter readings are the only ones whose info on changes E5-E10 will be worth really trusting. Even then probably not until a year has gone by, to allow for seasonal variations. (Probably) Nobody here knows what changes might be made to the non-ethanol part of what we're buying now, nor how much ethanol actually is in any given batch of E10, given that it's one of those 'may contain up to 10% ethanol' type things isn't it? Not 'will always contain 10%"?

I have the full car data pdf for that car thanks Carlston. This thread was intended to be general, for all readers, not about my partners car, nor mk1 Fabias, both of which are well known to me. Thanks for your efforts though.

As an afterthought, feeling guilty for not considering non-UK readers, if your country's equivalent test has an online manual describing its test items I'd be delighted if you'd add a post with a link to it.

Treat yourself to some wine with the money saved. 😊

Does it even have fluid? I'd think it will be electromechanical, motor on rack?

Most people don't know their engine code. That usually doesn't affect their lives too much, but when asking questions of a technical nature on a car forum it can be very a useful thing to be able to mention. Why? It gives a more specific, precise definition of the engine in question than any other description you might otherwise use. Why is that important? 1. Information in parts catalogues, particularly for anything even slightly engine related, is often different depending on which engine code is being looked for. 2. Information (relating to the engine at least) in factory wiring diagrams is split up into sections by engine code. If you don't know the engine code, there might be a number of different diagrams with significant differences which could lead you astray if you pick the wrong one. 3. Questions concerning diagnosis of a fault should often vary depending on the engine code. If you have a 1.2 litre 3-cylinder petrol engine for example, it might have an EGR valve if it has certain engine codes, and not if it has others. It is very likely to even have a different number of camshafts and valves depending on which code. EGR faults are very rare on cars that don't have one! 4. If you know your engine code, you can put it into ebay as a search term (e.g. "AZQ engine") and you will see listings of ones for sale. These can be very useful for finding things on the engine or working out how to get to them, as they often include good photos from several angles of engines on pallets, with varying numbers of ancillary items fitted. Much easier to see what's what than from more or less any angle while the engine is in the engine bay. How and where can I find this code? On cars up until about 2018, there tended to be a paper sticker on the boot floor, often near the spare wheel well. Duplicate could often found at the front of the service book. That includes a certain amount of info about the vehicle, including engine (and gearbox) codes, paint code, all sorts. Example (engine code in red square, gearbox code in blue): Many cars also have a barcode sticker on the upper cambelt cover, like this one: The engine code is the letters (in yellow box) just ahead of the engine number: See also Nige's reply below about finding the engine code on your V5c. Letters ahead of the engine number. Consider adding this engine code to any info you may have already put in your profile and or signature, and keep it updated if you change cars.

People are often questioning whether X or Y needs to be working to get through an MOT, and a lot of people give duff answers based on hearsay and old wives' tales. (e.g. "if it's fitted it must work") To find out what is and isn't actually part of the MOT test, you can look yourself here: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) If you find it difficult to understand what's written in there, there's a forum you can look at which has lots of answers to many questions from actual MOT testers. If you can't find your answer there already, you can register, post a query, and in my experience get a prompt answer. Again, from guys/gals working in MOT bays. MOT Forum - The MOT Testing Forum for the UK MOT Testing Industry (motester.co.uk)

Engine type (and year of car)?

I think the battery coding will be irrelevant for a car of 2007 vintage, so relax on that front. How long the car must run to replace the starting charge very much depends on how long the engine takes to start. The current required while the starter motor is turning is very high, but if that time is brief, then the charge taken from the battery will be minimal. If it takes several seconds of cranking, then it will be much more. A battery charger that you could plug in once a week to top it up overnight would probably be a good investment for you, especially if you have the car garaged overnight, or can do. There is a possibility that something is staying on which should be turning off, which may be taking charge out of the battery 24/7 (a glovebox, or boot light for example). This could do with investigation as soon a possible if Ken's idea above doesn't clarify things. Any time a car battery 'goes flat', it suffers and never recovers to quite what it was before.

0. Identification of the vehicle - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) Key phrase appears to be the last bullet-point in this section: You do not need to check: the supplier’s name postcode BS number logos or emblems outside the minimum margin around the registration number

Just inboard of the expansion tank. Two pipes, two-way electrical connector.

Not exactly a guide, but I think this'll be it here:

Nope.

Fuse 34 may be your problem.

Interesting, thanks for the correction.

Does the sidelight at the front work on that near side?

I think 5 wires is normal on the nearside, no foglight which would be the pin 1 wire. Pin 2, the thin grey/black wire should be the tail light. Make sure you have the correct P21/4W bulb fitted.

Broken wire or connector come unplugged, possibly.

Welcome to Briskoda. Interesting username!

Steering assist module 44 under 'Chassis' tab in VCDS.

Item 8 here, I think (from this page: floating caliper brake; version - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com))? Part number WHT 003 250, M8 x 22. Not sure what the MK indicates, maybe referring to prefitted blue threadlock stuff? Sometimes these are included with pad sets, I think?

ErWin doesn't do parts info, not sure who suggested to you that it does. Just munching dinner, will try to find the relevant ETKA page for you shortly.

Crowbar down between rear disc face and wheel bearing housing, exert outward pressure and then use hammer percussion on the disc. May need to rotate disc and repeat in two or three places. Top tip from experience, partially fit one wheel bolt so that when the disc does let go it doesn't smack into any parts of you...