Breezy_Pete

Maybe the oil cooler would be a good thing to check for coolant blockage/flow. I assume there is one.

The coolant temperature gauge is 'tweaked' in software to read 90C over a 'generous' temperature range to soothe customers who might worry, so the real coolant temp may well be rather less. You could do with some sort of scan tool reading live data. That could show you coolant temperature as read by sensor/engine ECU before software sanitisation in the cluster. You really need to get thermostats back in there at some point though.

For future reference, it would be better to ask for such info in the Mk1 Fabia subforum, as your profile and engine code suggest that's what you have. Either in a relevant thread there, or by starting your own. Tagging onto this one risks confusion for future readers expecting mk2 Fabia info.

This page has all the 288 brake bits' part numbers: floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com)

It's good that your engine survived that. No thanks to this design decision:

The wheels will probably fit over them, but you'd need to change the wheel bearing housings as well as all the brake bits, as yours will be the type with integrated carriers. The calipers for 288mm discs would need the other type with bolt on carriers. See items 7 and 7A here: wishbone; wheel bearing housing; anti-roll bar - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com)

You may want to fact-check that one.

Yep, cylinder 1 at timing chain end. If you take all three spark plugs out, you may well be able to turn the engine by just pulling on the auxiliary belt.

The chain could have jumped at the crank sprocket, leaving cams in phase with each other but mistimed relative to crank. So coil and plug out of cylinder 1 and find TDC by poking something long down onto piston crown. Only turn the engine in its running direction, by 12-point socket on crank bolt. When at TDC no.1, both cam slots should be parallel to head gasket.

Yes, that vid looks useful at first glance. The official stance is that you buy the timing locking kit (1 crank lock pin and 2 cam locking pins), remove crank sensor to fit the locking pin in there, then try to fit (and screw in with the M6 screws) the cam locks into the same slots that can be visually inspected; but just observing the relative orientation of the two slots in the cam ends is usually adequate to detect a slip/jump. Bear in mind (managing expectations here, sorry) that not only is it quite a mission to get into the chain to do anything about it, but on the 12-valve engines valve damage is quite likely as a consequence of the mistiming, if found.

Need to know if it's a 12-valve or 6-valve engine before I can offer any useful advice. 12-valve ones have the spark plugs vertically downwards in the middle of the head, 6-valve engines have them hanging out the front of the head at a steep angle. Engine code is always the best identifier of engine type. On the sticker in the boot.

That's the last date that the new one from that box can be fitted as a brand new belt. Shelf life, not belt life.

Perhaps the dashcam has a configurable "switch off if supply voltage dips below N vollts" setting which just needs lowering a bit?

That's because Ken has made up most of them.

There are some supply rails that are turned off specifically/only during cranking; have you maybe picked one of those to hardwire it into? Where have you taken the supply from?

Referring to mpgs in anything other than brim-to-brim calculated values is really pointless.

1st tankfull our Fabia has done on Tesco's boggo E10 was a very rare >50mpg average; but I'll monitor it for 6 months or more before pronouncing any significant change.

You're one character short of a full part number there. Should be 9 characters before the A, I think.

Isn't it only Skoda UK that claims a 5 year belt change is essential? Other countries take a less cautious approach. Not sure how a 2017 car can be massively overdue on even a 5 year interval? Sounds more like an electrical power/charging problem if a new battery fixed the problem for a month. Try jump starting it with another car's battery connected, when hot, and see if that helps.

Microships can navigate small waterways though. 😊

See how cold the air is with the A/C switched on if you look at the 1.2, (and you care about having working A/C). If it's not much colder with the temp dial set to minimum and A/C button pressed and lit up yellow, it's probably not working and could be a price-lowering bargaining point. Might be a cheap/easy fix, but might well not.

What values are you getting?

Is your car a mk1 Fabia? If so go here: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA Download the file Fabia CFD MY2003-2004 and look on pdf pages 130 and 131. It's not the perfect match to your slightly later car, but I'd be a little surprised if anything has changed between that and subsequent file versions. References in rectangular boxes are to the track numbers where the wire continues. Track numbers are the ones beneath the horizontal line at the bottom of each diagram.

Make sure all five doors open/close and lock/unlock correctly, and that the front electric windows work fully and smoothly/quietly. Look for dampness in the cabin especially in the rear footwells, you may see watermarking evidence of ingress on the metal of the doors just below the door cards, or even soggy door cards if bad. If it has rained recently prior to inspection, look at the rubber seals at the bottom of each doorway for puddles sitting on them, more evidence of door carrier leakage. Any/all of the above faults are harder to fix by 'virtue' of later mk1s having door carriers that are rivetted in place rather than bolted. Engine noises, on cold start up, at idle, and observation of degree of vibration of the engine in the bay would all be worth checking if possible. 71k is not particularly high mileage for this engine, and I think a 2006 BME-code engine will not have an EGR valve which is one fault cause of the earlier 12-valvers.

None of those advisories is a cause for serious concern. ARB links are trivially easy and cheap to replace, as is the exhaust joining sleeve that is the likely cause of the slight leak. The last four I would ignore completely as they are subjective and fairly inconsequential. Iff you did want to clean-sheet it, brake hoses and rear springs also not expensive to buy or have fitted.