Breezy_Pete

It'll be a vent temperature sensor, I should think? What's on the other side of the board? Look for a round hole that that o-ring will just jam into. Or a smaller hole that the board and the nearest white plastic will go into, possibly with some rectangular holes that the bayonet catches will go into; possibly a push in and twist to lock thing? o-ring may be a face seal rather than a radial seal.

I can read it fine, because it's beautifully clear! Will check over everything this evening, comparing with my car for anything that seems surprising.

Often seems to be that pin, you may have seen a video of me wobbling it in another thread. 20200910_155143.mp4

I thought that's probably what you meant, didn't want to assume though.

What's "I level", a typo or a real thing?

Which ECU pin numbers are you seeing connectivity with? Disconnecting the other oxygen sensor may remove one pathway, as there'll be a connection through its heater (powered from the same fuse, No. 9) to ECU pin 63. Wiring diagram also shows a resistor between oxygen sensor 1's connector pins 2 and 4, but it's not clear whether that's on the loom half of the connection or the sensor half, I suspect it may be the latter?

They used to rot from the inside out faster than they did from the outside in. But with ultra-low sulphur fuels this is a thing of the past.

I'd disagree with the last part of that sentence. It may last years and years before the inner skin fails. Leave it alone 'til then. Did you get a part number from the dealer?

The illusion that EVs are sweet, simple things with nothing to go wrong is amusingly covered here, around the 2-minute mark. Astonishing level of complexity compared to what I had imagined, in all honesty. Mach-E Thermal System Nightmare - YouTube I hope/expect there are simpler ones about.

Our Fabia developed very similar sounding problems to yours, and it turned out to be a failed solder joint within the passenger front lock unit: Locking misbehaviour, another possible cause - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Experiment repeatedly (to try to build up a clear picture) with each of the front doors as follows: Unlock the car with the remote fob, open just one of the front doors and leave it open for a minute without doing anything else. If the car remains unlocked then the 'door open' message has got through to the places it needs to. If the car re-locks itself automatically, then it hasn't sensed that that door has opened. This points to an issue with the lock unit, usually. Sometimes it's the microswitch on the outside of the lock unit, sometimes it's a cracked solder joint, sometimes a wire broken; either way, replacing the whole lock unit is the pragmatic fix. It may be that you don't get a 100% pass/fail situation for each of the doors - both microswitch and solder joint problems can present as intermittent issues - but it may clarify which is currently the least reliable, and then probably worth fixing that one, and repeat testing of the other side if any misbehaviour remains afterwards. If you have an electrical test meter and want to test the wiring yourself, you can unplug the light brown connector where the door loom connects into the A-pillar, and measure between pins 2 and 5. These should be short-circuit/connected while the door is open. This is only goin to prove that the wiring is intact if you ever get a positive result. If you never see that short circuit, it could be the wiring or the lock unit at fault. Realistically, a visual inspection of the wires in the door hinge area each side will tell you if there are broken ones; the thin brown/yellow (UK pass side) and brown/violet (UK driver's side) going to pin 2 of each of the light brown A-pillar connectors are the most likely culprits.

I'm seeing two yellow 20A fuses in your photo. The lower of these, Fuse 40, is the one you need to check/replace. Zooming in on the gap next to it, I can just make out 'F41' written in the middle, suggesting that its neighbours are indeed F40 on the left and F42 on the right.

If your car has the consoles as shown in the parts diagram I linked to in an edit to my previous post then you will have this small amount of adjustability. There's probably an equivalent somewhere on the later mk2 arrangement, but I don't know that one. When bushes were replaced, it's possible that the consoles were loosened and not put back in their original positions, leading to the inequalities in camber and caster. I think one way that this may happen is if people jack up only one side of the car, remove these bolts between console and chassis with the car 'twisted' and then refit them with the new bushes (or whole new consoles). I suspect the slight twisting of the car if jacked up unevenly may be enough for the consoles to naturally sit in a different, wrong position.

There possibly is, what year is the car? On early mk2s as well as mk1s, the subframe is held to the chassis via the 'consoles'. item 23 here: wishbone; wheel bearing housing; anti-roll bar; F ... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com) These have holes with big clearances (+/-2.5mm in all directions from perfect centre) for the bolts that hold them to the chassis, so fine adjustments can be made. You need to be careful not to make things worse though. Are you sure there are no bushes that may be worn out though?

Probably the camber inequality: Does Your Vehicle Pull to One Side While Driving? Here's How To Diagnose and Correct Steering Pull | Premier Auto Service (premierautoservicejv.com)

Use better websites, or telephone them tell them the OE part numbers you wish to replace and speak to humans. It is similar here, where one of the big players have rubbish online look-ups and no supplier part numbers shown usually. The guys in the shops or on the end of the phones are usually looking at more precise and extensive info than the websites provide. I usually find ebay with 'include description' ticked tends to find OE part numbers referenced in the listing even if they aren't in the title. Buy from them.

Use the part number column and cross reference against that for any aftermarket/ non-genuine parts. Or hit the button on the far right that's called 'interchange' or similar for lists of such parts.

Some have 5! (Full disclosure, that may well be a 9N Polo one not a Fabia one though, can't remember)

Only if the base petrol remained the same, which it may well not do, for reasons mentioned already. They may be able to make the base 'dinosaur juice' fuel 'worse' at least in RON terms, but as I say, I don't know how/if that would affect energy content of that fraction.

@chimaera would be my 'goto guy' for explanations about energy content of the various fuels and their 'extras'. I seem to remember him suggesting that the petrochemical guys may just balance the octane boosting aspect of adding more ethanol against 'octane lowering' of the base fuel, to end up with something with the same RON. No idea how that might impact the calorific/energy content overall, because that is hardly correlated if at all with RON, I think. Many folk misunderstand this. I vividly remember once transcribing some taped interviews with some teachers, about why they left their previous jobs. One of them had been working for a fuel company and described how it was very tedious and embarrassing to keep repeating the same tests on a 'batch' over and over again hoping to get a 'pass' through simple experimental error, which would save the company loads of cash compared with having to add more of the pricier ingredients...

Good work @JBD1974. I imagine there's probably a fair amount of variation in the calorific value of the 95RON, bearing in mind that that may not be one of the criteria it needs to meet to be 'certifiable'; dunno. Your wording could just do with a slight tweak to say a "0.7% increase in fuel consumption" or a 0.7% drop in fuel economy. Sounds very believable compared with the 'scare story' figure in the autocar article.

Spot on. I've used mine twice this year so far, and one of those was mainly for the dog's benefit on a long journey.

Implausible NOx emissions or CO2? Different scandals.

The wire that is earthed when the microswitch responds to door opening is a thin brown/yellow one which goes into pin 2 of the brown 6-way connector at the A-pillar. Unplug that 6-way connector and use a test meter to see if that wire does or doesn't get connected to earth/chassis with the door open. Pin 5 of that same connector is one of the earth connections to the door, so you can measure between 2 and 5.