Breezy_Pete

Charge the battery up with a battery charger, or try a different battery that reads more like 12.6V when disconnected. At 11.89V yours has almost no power. I'm not sure what you mean by the description of the relay resistance test, what's 'chazz'? The relay coil is between pins marked 85 and 86, so just measure Ohms between those two pins of the relay. Check also that the relay socket in the car has 12V at the position into which pin '85' inserts when the ignition is switched on.

Your window motor modules are not something that it can talk to.

Try charging the battery if you have a charger. Low voltage can upset these window motor units. If you don't have a charger, measure volts across the battery posts with engine off, and then when running if you have, or can borrow a multimeter. When you describe it 'crashing' do you mean it just stops working abruptly or the window/mechanism actually making a 'something breaking' kind of noise? I doubt that the comfort module is relevant, the motor units only really talk to each other.

Maybe a dying coilpack?, a MOSFET transistor inside failing short-circuit, at a guess. Someone with a 1.4/16V engine had the same a week or two back. 1.4 BBZ engine stopped and won’t restart - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

I dunno about that, if anything it might be better for it. The main driver of ours isn't fabulously good at picking the right gear at slower speeds, so I think 'labouring' the engine was probably the death of ours.

Our Mk1 Fabia HTP got up to about 175k on the original engine. I recently transplanted a much lower mileage one in after the original started showing signs of imminent death. 12-valve AZQ code one though, so not completely comparable. I've yet to tear down the old one, but I think bottom end wear and tear.

Checked any fuses? Ignition coil feed is #52 When you say you 'swapped out' coil 2, do you mean moved it to another cylinder, or fitted a new one there?

Does the car get a lot of use at night, or does it get driven with headlights on during daylight? Or both? What bulbs do you fit? There's a strong correlation between brightness and short-livedness, for simple physics reasons. May also be worth monitoring what the highest charging voltages are from the alternator when driving, in case there's something amiss there.

I can't seem to work out which way I'm looking in that photo, but if that's anywhere near the battery, it'll be the battery tray drain hose. It isn't mean to connect to anything at the bottom end, just the underside of the battery tray at the other end.

LCD displays use very, very little power except when the numbers are changing. Mileage and trip won't be changing while the car's stationary, and clock will only change once a minute.

I think the oil you have in there also meets 505 01 spec.

I always convert any car I buy from rear discs to drums. Said no-one, ever.

What engine does your car have? May not have a MAF.

Looks right to me. Do look for wiring breakages first or you'll kick yourself if you find one whilst changing the sensor...

It'll be fine leaving it longer, as long as the usage profile continues to mostly involve journeys where the engine runs for at least a few miles at full operating temperature.

Wiring: Pin number at sensor connection Wire colour Pin number at ECU/other 1 green 70 2 black 71 3 blue/red From fuse 43 4 white 5 5 grey/white 51 6 grey/red 52

Skoda part number looks to be 1k0998262d; see amongst all the item 12s here switch; clutch pedal - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2003 year] (7zap.com) If any equivalents you look at only have four wires, they're not right.

Just the sensor nearest the engine, the other one would be B1S2. Both sensors' heaters are usually powered from the same fuse so unlikely to be that. Please confirm engine code if you want me to look up wiring info to/from sensor.

Nope

Are you sure it was coolant in there not just condensed water? The radiator thermoswitch is a popular spot for slow coolant leaks.

More likely for that to leak oil into coolant, as oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure nearly all the time; except when just switched off at operating temperature.

No, sorry, The instrument cluster is the thing in front of you when driving with speedometer, gauges etc.

Oil pressure switch connects first to pin 1 of a black 14-way connector at the front left of the engine compartment (left as experienced sitting in the driver's seat looking forward). It changes at that connection from a black wire to a green/black wire which terminates at pin 25 of the 36-way connector at the instrument cluster in the cabin. It doesn't go to the engine ECU.

I expect your foglights don't work either? Not sure what colour it'll be, but if you stick up a photo I'll mark it for you.

A/C should work better with both fans able to run at low speed, irrespective of coolant temperature. That was actually the first indication that the main fan's low speed on ours was busted; at a standstill in hot weather with A/C on, the main fan would cycle between off and on at full speed every few seconds, instead of the low speed working continuously.