Breezy_Pete

Not surprised you were finding it hard to identify the correct items. Not super-obvious even with VIN filtering. The ones labelled 4, 6, 7 in the top part of your diagram are easier, corresponding to items 18, (19) and 19 here: The horizontal ones attaching console (20) to engine are a bit more confusing: Slightly less weird when you notice that items 20C and (21) are the same part number. If there are three screws (item 2 in your image) with two long and one short, I guess you have to get two of the M10x75 and one of the M10x55mm? The greyed out items don't suit your VIN.

Excellent, thanks for showing us the damaged area.

Could also be that the original sensor suffered a perforation failure which caused coolant to go into the connector pins, and may now have travelled along the strands of the wires to the ECU connector. If you find wetness at pins 52/53 you will know for sure.

@Samoht26 on your car there is a G83 as well as G62. G83 is described as Coolant temperature sender at radiator outlet, so I guess it is near the bottom hose connection to the radiator. Wiring to each is as follows: G62 pin 1 red/grey wire to engine ECU pin 52 of the 60-way connector G62 pin 2 brown/grey wire to engine ECU pin 53 of the 60-way connector G83 pin 1 yellow wire to engine ECU pin 37 of the 60-way connector G83 pin 2 brown wire to engine ECU pin 38 of the 60-way connector Is there any sign of wetness inside the loom plug for G62? Let me know if a pin diagram of engine ECU connectors is useful, although they are usually marked on the mating face, I think.

Well done, good result. No, I wouldn't worry about what is left. It will probably end up in the sump soon, may come out with the next oil change.

Managed to magnify your second image to see that the part number fitted is 2Q0199262BJ, which is a current (not superseded) part number retailing at £192 + VAT. No indication in the parts catalogue that it is RHD-specific. Are you certain that the fluid isn't coolant, from the reservoir that seems to be immediately above that area?

My A4 had a hydraulic engine mount one side. It had an electric valve that controlled its stiffness depending on operating conditions. It had leaked too.

Or just miscommunication, left side engine mount rather than LHD? Pictured one being right side.

I'm intrigued by this, can't quite picture why they'd be different. Care to share the reg or VIN with me (privately if you prefer) so I can research it a bit?

Better off having engine running when that sort of load is on the battery for a little while. Also the voltage to the inflator will be higher then, so will work faster.

Any of these should fit, I think (not sure why first two lines are repeated as last two):

I did give this a go, and it did seem to solve the problem. Weirdly, pretty much simultaneously, the latch that receives and detects the belt buckle bit started not detecting occasionally, causing warning lights and bonging noises. A squirt of air from one of those airduster aerosols seemed to sort that, presumably displacing some debris that was interfering with microswitch operation. Cheers again @aubrey . 🙂

Straight swap.

Not sure; VCDS would be handy if you can find someone nearby with it.

The 5 amp one in the engine bay also goes to the glow plug control unit, so you'd probably have seen a warning light if that had blown, the cabin one appears to be just for the fuel pump though. When you say the relays work, you mean you can hear them click? That doesn't say anything about the condition of the current-carrying (or not!) contacts.

That relay holder is rather inexactly described as being "Additional relay holder below dash panel".

OK, so not too much to check. Fuel pump relay is in position D4.1 of this relay holder: Circuit looks like this, with two fuses to check in different locations. Apologies for the clunky edit on #27! G6 is the fuel pump itself, 12V in on the blue/red wire, earth on the brown.

Good info, that suggests electrical fault then, clearly. Please supply VIN or reg so I can look at most appropriate wiring info for you.

Did you try measuring for volts on pump connector when turning key to ignition on or cranking position? Could be just that the pump motor brushes have worn so much that there isn't enough contact to start the motor when there's load on the shaft?

How many miles on car?

It is quite easy to remove that valve, but I don't think access is going to improve much. The end of the camshaft is not far behind there.

I do not think it will make any noticeable difference.

Yes, that is correct.

@Warrior193 people who mess around with their exterior lighting tend not to care much about suchlike.

No such arrangement on a petrol engine.