Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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@Kalkveien Wiring information suggests that there are 3 separately fused power feeds to your ABS module. Cabin fuse 19 (5 Amp, ignition switched) and engine bay fuses 4 (20 Amp) and 25 (40 Amp), both permanent 12V. Check all three fuses.
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Relays are behind the dash trim, above the fusebox. Fuel pump relay is probably bottom row second from right end.
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Both the 6 valve and 12 valve engines can suffer timing chain jumps, but they tend to be 'game over' in the 12-valve engines. 6 valve examples seem to suffer more from exhaust valve burning problems. 12-valve engine were AZQ code until late 2004 approx, BME thereafter.
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A tip for you regarding your engine. The HTP engines have a hydraulic chain tensioner. It tends to retain a volume of oil within itself after engine shutdown, which helps it to apply the required push on the chain guide quickly after start-up. One thing that can squeeze this oil out, is if the engine rotates backwards when not running. This can occur if the car is left in gear when parking on a slope, if the selected gear is opposite to the movement that happens if the handbrake slips a little. Better to maintain the handbrake sufficiently that there is no need to park in gear,or put it in a gear such that rotation will be normal if the car does shift a little.
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In that case, I have no idea what the difference is, if any, between those versions of the Haynes. For most things apart from engine-related stuff (he has a diesel), you're probably as well off looking at Hat boy Harvey's youtube vids.
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When you say 'Fabia 1', do you mean a Mk1 Fabia or a Mk2 Fabia with trim level 'Fabia 1'? Skoda made things very confusing for owners of early mk2s, by calling different trim levels Fabia 1, 2, and 3. To know whether you have a late Mk1 or an early Mk2, just look at your VIN number. If the 7th and 8th characters are 6Y, you have a Mk1. If 5J then you have a Mk2. Or look at styling differences in photos e.g. here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%A0koda_Fabia
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I will send you a message requesting the VIN, so that I can look up full information relating to the ABS module in your Yeti. There is almost certainly more than one power feed to the module, but there are usually two or three variants so I would need VIN to find the correct diagram.
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Is it still showing a fault code related to fan though? Have you cleared stored codes?
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Both speeds? Fan control module is going to be hanging off the nearside chassis leg, quite near the radiator, access from below with undercover removed.
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Maybe test the fan itself next, as described yesterday lunchtime?
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Interesting. Get a couple of replacements in case there's a fault that takes it straight out again after you fit a new one. One possibility might be that the (internal) low speed fan resistor has failed, so it has been trying to start the fan at full speed from a standing start, with more of a surge than if it were already spinning at low speed. Wiring short somewhere is obviously another possibility.
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Sounds like the oil separator. Item 23 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts It's not an easy repair, to be honest. Offside driveshaft really needs to come out for access, which is from below. Awkward to see and work on. Nothing technically tricky, just awkward, and has a sealant seal rather than a gasket. One thing that might be worth checking first is for other oil leaks that may be dripping down from above that area, giving the false impression that the separator is leaking. The throttle body sometimes receives oil via the turbo, some of which seems to get down the outside of the intake manifold. Have a look where the boost pipe attaches to the throttle body, see if there are any oily messes around there.
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I guess the engine ECU relies on the temperature from its G62 coolant temperature sensor alone. If you want to test the fan itself, unplug the loom connector that goes onto the fan control unit and link contact 9 to 8 for low speed fan, 9 to 10 for full speed. Use a reasonably thick bit of wire, and expect a spark as you make the circuit. Keep hands/fingers well clear of fan blades!
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If there is one fitted, the dual thermoswitch is here, item 2, but I have a feeling you may not find one there, because the parts page for radiator fan for your VIN shows 'not for this model' for the thermoswitch. There is however a separate radiator fan control unit, looking like the one in this listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167262171769 It has outputs that go directly to the fan, and inputs from engine ECU for each relay within it (low and full speed). It uses cabin fuse 31 (7.5 amp, ignition switched) and engine bay blade fuse number 1 (40 Amp). Check those first.
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Does the car have air conditioning? If so is it the simple semi-automatic type with knob controls, or the climatronic fully automatic system with screen and buttons? A look at the wiring for engine (CUSB code?) suggests there is no radiator outlet temperature sender, so there probably is a thermoswitch in the rad. More car details would really help.
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What problem are you trying to solve?
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If there is one, it's generally in the radiator a few inches above the bottom hose connection. It may have a temperature sender instead, mounted somewhere in the pipework near bottom connection. If you share reg or VIN I can look up the specifics for your car.
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It'll still work like that, because that is all there is to it. Just needs to be located somewhere so it doesn't bounce around.
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Outside temperature sensor. Should be a hole somewhere within reach of that wiring, for it to clip into.
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Sounds like you've done OK with it @CReese123, try not to worry. On both mk1 Fabia and Roomster with these same M8x48 screws, the official erWin info suggests 20Nm + 180 degree turn, which needs a decent effort and feels a bit scary. Unfortunately I don't have the erWin stuff for mk3 Fabia. Making certain the tool tip is fully (and square on) engaged in the screw heads is very important to reduce chances of slipping and rounding off. Tapping end of bit with a hammer is useful to ensure such engagement. A special tool of this style is very handy, particularly for the offside: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314719915154
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Alignment tweaked Front toe now looking a lot better, but camber a bit asymmetrical. Something bad going on at rear left, wonder what I can do about that. Pretty sure there's no official adjustment there.
