Breezy_Pete

N90991002, M10x23mm.

Since @Strugs isn't following this thread, and hasn't been on the forum since February, I've tagged him to hopefully cause him to get an email notification about your question @Hindsite.

What do you think this might include? I don't think there is any such etc. If you want to clean the injectors, it's almost certainly better to remove them and get them to someone who can not only clean but test the spray pattern afterwards. But petrol is a very good solvent for a lot of things, and you're already regularly passing that through them at some considerable pressure.

Go to the same page via lll parts. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

Brilliant news! Well done.

Waste of money, sadly.

For the pump to be running when it should not be, there are only really two possibilities. The control signal from engine ECU says 'run pump' at a time when it isn't really needed (for reasons we can't see easily), and the pump has its power feed because the relay is switched on, or The relay is switched on when it should not be, and the control signal says 'run pump'. I don't know which. Sometimes electronic modules have 'emergency state' defaults if the control signal is not within expected parameters while the module is powered, and that state is usually the one that minimises the chance of engine overheating. I have told you all of the directly related wiring. You can download wiring diagrams for every variant of Kamiq from erWin Skoda if you spend a few Euro.

Yes.

Strange. (Engine bay) Fuse 10 is a permanent 12V supply to the battery monitor control unit, according to the circuits I am looking at.

One way that relays fail is that the contacts stick (weld) together when they should be apart. The relay probably should stay energised (contacts together to power the fuse and pump, and several other fuses and other items), but only for a short time after key is removed, so that this coolant pump can run for a short time after switch-off, if the engine ECU decides it is useful.

Sounds like I'm too late with this, did you find numbering on the sockets where the relays fit?

The wiring diagram, indicates that there is a servomotor on the radiator 'blind' assembly, which shares a 12V supply from fuse 2. Was that damaged?

Not sure who obliterated the VIN, but luckily I had left the page open on my phone, pre-edit. Wiring and relay are as described earlier. If no problem can be found with any of the three wires or the connector at the pump, I think maybe replacing the relay might be the easiest thing to try.

Put the old one back on and see if it's squealing or not.

I will re-check the wiring info now that I have the VIN.

Engine code or VIN would help, but I expect you'll find 3 wires going to the pump connector, a brown earth wire, a blue 12V feed, and a blue/yellow control wire from the engine ECU, pin 21 of the 60-way connector. The blue wire is fed via fuse 2 in engine bay, which is from the output of the 'main relay' J271 (Relay position 6 in engine bay) , which is also controlled by engine ECU.

External EGR, where exhaust gases are fed back into the inlet manifold is rare or unheard-of lately in petrol engines. Tends to be done by valve overlap and adjustable valve timing now, I believe. I think from around 2006 petrol engines started shedding external EGRs, in VW group stuff anyway. Diesels naturally make more NOx and need more EGR (and latterly SCR/Adblue) to deal with it.

It's direct injection, surely, so won't go near any intake valves if it's in the fuel. Won't have an EGR valve either.

Not sure which engine type you have, but I based my comment on the fact that the single high-pressure oil feed that goes from block to head in most engines tends to be alongside or even coaxial with one of the headbolts. This means it is relatively unlikely to communicate with a water channel if the gasket does develop any leakage. Water channel into oil return (causing water into oil, not the converse because of the pressure relation), or across fire ring into cylinder will be much more common gasket failures, by a large margin. Oil coolers, as mac says, are way cheaper and easier to swap; and tend to carry pressurised oil in close proximity to coolant, which may have eroded/corroded the pipework over the years.

Much more likely to be oil cooler.

If you don't need A/C then just leave everything as it is. There's no clutch that engages/disengages, but as you say, a breakaway thing that lets the pulley spin freely if compressor seizes.

I'll start a message conversation with you to see if my access can find your VIN in parts catalogue.

Have a google of those, you'll probably find a few results in this forum amongst other places. Definitely electrical, not to do with thermostat. Coolant pump B seems to be the item involved, but wiring/connections to it may well be the issue rather than the pump itself. I also seem to remember that there can be confusion about identifying the correct pump, as there may be more than one.

Sounds more like a description of an electrical fault. What was the fault code number?

Front of block, halfway up. Item 21 for this reg. Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Part number shown there has been superseded by 03L 121 111 AN