Breezy_Pete

Just looked at ours, and you'll be able to get a pretty reasonable measurement through the spokes of the alloys. Looks to be about 10mm or so. This is a pic of my knob-up on that front. Wrong size shiny new disc versus original. Shiny ones had to go back for a refund. Don't assume yours are the same though, measure.

The factory-fitted discs for this reg are 288mm diameter x 25mm thickness. Front brake PR code is 1LN. Genuine front disc part number is 1J0 615 301R, which has been superseded by 6R0 615 301D. Beware of buying any aftermarket discs that do not mention equivalence to these numbers. Not a bad idea to take a wheel off and measure the depth from front face of disc to wheel mounting face, then comparing with sellers' dimensioned drawings too.

Also, be careful when buying 288mm discs, they don't all have the same depth of the bell part, as I found out too late after ordering carelessly.

Hi Joe, 288mm discs cannot be fitted to a car that originally had 256mm, without changing lots of other stuff. Where have you found a PR code for your front brakes? That's not usually found on the build sticker. What is the reg? I can look up for you.

Front wheel slightly binding is maybe worth addressing, the rest can probably be ignored.

That needs answering. Not one of those "health check"/upselling check sheets done oh-so-helpfully as part of a simple oil change service, by any chance?

Front shocks tend to have part numbers with 413 031 XX as the last 8 characters, and often have more than one sticker on them. Look for another with the suggested partial part number. (XX being unknown to me, and usually the sole difference in part number amongst the whole family of variants). Given reg or VIN I could look up your specific PN.

Not usually productive, because the nozzle tends to have a 90 degree bend near the outlet, and you'd also be pushing any debris back in, not out.

Can be just the nozzle blocked, and they generally pull out fairly easily to test flow without.

Ah, I see. Working rear wiper >= + 100bhp.

The bit just outside the fuel cap, with a water drain hole? It would be remarkable if cleaning that area and unblocking that drain helped with engine performance. What was the car in for?

Probably just near fuel tank, accessible by removing right rear wheel arch liner. Supply VIN if you would like confirmation.

Yep, currently £21.65 plus VAT each. That's based on the part number 05E 905 602.

Looks to me like the breather assembly may be built into the cylinder head cover, item 20 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts The round, diaphragm-shaped enclosure just next to where the breather pipe attaches makes me think there's some 'cunning stuff' in there.

@maggieh just out of curiosity, what was the reason for fitting the new turbo, where did it come from and did you retain the old one?

About £2.30-odd + VAT each across a Skoda parts counter at a dealership. Few options a bit cheaper here but usually take a week or so to deliver. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/n90991002/vag-screw-n90991002

N90991002, M10x23mm.

Since @Strugs isn't following this thread, and hasn't been on the forum since February, I've tagged him to hopefully cause him to get an email notification about your question @Hindsite.

What do you think this might include? I don't think there is any such etc. If you want to clean the injectors, it's almost certainly better to remove them and get them to someone who can not only clean but test the spray pattern afterwards. But petrol is a very good solvent for a lot of things, and you're already regularly passing that through them at some considerable pressure.

Go to the same page via lll parts. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

Brilliant news! Well done.

Waste of money, sadly.

For the pump to be running when it should not be, there are only really two possibilities. The control signal from engine ECU says 'run pump' at a time when it isn't really needed (for reasons we can't see easily), and the pump has its power feed because the relay is switched on, or The relay is switched on when it should not be, and the control signal says 'run pump'. I don't know which. Sometimes electronic modules have 'emergency state' defaults if the control signal is not within expected parameters while the module is powered, and that state is usually the one that minimises the chance of engine overheating. I have told you all of the directly related wiring. You can download wiring diagrams for every variant of Kamiq from erWin Skoda if you spend a few Euro.

Yes.

Strange. (Engine bay) Fuse 10 is a permanent 12V supply to the battery monitor control unit, according to the circuits I am looking at.