Breezy_Pete

This thread, especially the linked page of it, may be relevant, especially if your car like almost all mk1s has had leaky rear doors. ABS Warning light - Page 3 - Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007) - BRISKODA Unexpected find in the wiring department.

@Bo67 can you work out where on the engine that last post's images are showing?

You make that sound like a cheap and easy fix. Capacity of (any) car park so adjusted would be massively reduced though.

That linked thread was about cam sensor, not crank sensor. You were bang on the money on Friday @inspectorman. That ebay picture is showing item 16 here, which is at the gearbox end of engine/crankshaft. LLLParts So OP should be looking at gearbox end of engine, close to clutch bellhousing. I think back right corner of engine low down on block as you look into the engine bay. Edit, or maybe at front near oil cooler? If that's what this is showing?

e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323974769047 Watch out for ones with similar but different part numbers coming up on ebay search

Found it for you, housing is 1J0 973 702. Wires with crimped pins both ends to fit it are part number 000 979 131 E, but I think you'll find ebay listings with wires pre-fitted.

There will be a 9-character part number on the connector housing. Put that in ebay search box and hope for results including wire-tailed connectors.

Thought it rang a bell, have a look here: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/oil-pressure-switches-but-mechanically-fine.292246/

Do you know your engine code? I tend to view images in ebay listings of spare engines of same code when trying to spot such things.

150Nm + 180° in the official manual. Difficult without help on the counterhold tool.

2, 3 get alignment checked, toe probably slightly out. 1 normal. 4 brake harder from time to time when no-one is close behind, should improve appearance of discs.

Haynes is not right. 14.3-14.5 when cold, dropping a tenth or two when hot is fine.

Strong fix!

Fling me your VIN in a message.

He knows far less than you do about electronics. I'm lying.

Nope, they're just notoriously unreliable on the 1.6CR engines unfortunately. If you can eyeball the wiring to that injector connection, could be worth checking for wire damage, but I would've thought your mechanic would've spotted any such problem while unplugging/reconnecting.

How are things @Aspman?

No gun jumping visible from where I'm sitting.

Could be a wire broken rather than wires shorted. In some positions the broken ends remain touching, in others they're pulled apart? A wire from the ignition switch, for example, could have widespread effects if intermittent. All speculation, but worth a free look before starting to fire up the parts cannon, I think.

Isn't the obvious thing to look for a wire or wires that are being affected by movement of the indicator stalk? Some disassembly of plastic covers may be needed, possibly only the top one? Someone may have been in there previously and not put a wiring loom back correctly, in a way that means it has now been damaged by mechanical movement.

"This story is too good to check" Spoken by a journalist acquaintance of mine.

There's a fair amount of choice of video guides for connector unplugging if you've never done one before. The executive summary is "push connector body towards sensor before trying to release latch". Many latches are broken by those who do not realise this simple technique is required. vw connector removal - YouTube

Thought it would be. There's a progressive hardware failure in the electronics that exhibits more at lower temperatures. I can offer repair by post at much lower cost than replacement. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/

Fingers crossed for those of you in the worst of it over the next day or two. 🤞

I presume this is a facelift car, with the two-connector window motor module on driver's side?