Breezy_Pete

Nice one John, thanks for the part number. Could be still available, at first glance. 😀 Edit: ^ Not according to Fish Bros in Swindon, tried to order yesterday. LLL parts are showing it at nearly £40 plus no doubt a good chunk of postage cos of the length of the thing. Will have to make something instead.

IAT sensor is co-packaged with the MAP sensor. It's the little black bit that sticks out the front. Most people think they're cleaning the MAP sensor when they're actually cleaning the temp sensor. Pressure sensing bit is deeper behind that. Ringed in yellow here:

@AreBerg Yellow wire at pin 2 of connector for G42 goes to engine ECU pin 30 on 94-way connector. Brown wire from pin 1 of same connector goes to ECU pin 66 of 94-way.

Hi @DazDude54, thanks for posting. I'll be happy to help with this, and will send you a private message now with contact details. Cheers, Pete

According to partslink24, the 893E and 893F are both superseded by 893H, so I guess that makes all of those interchangeable. The -H was dropped in Feb '22, the others much earlier. The 891F was dropped in Sept '23. Not much help, sorry.

Match the final 8 characters of your VIN against the various ones quoted (after 6y-) against each of the pressure hose part numbers. If unsure, pop those characters here and I'll help.

Think it's this diagram actually, all UK systems are TRW, I believe. Obviously the ones labelled rhd, with part numbers starting 6Q2. All unavailable new AFAIK, sadly. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/ALL/FAB/453/4/423/423050

Yes, I'd imagine that is just a bulb failure.

Good thought. It's a belt. Two actually, a small one that joins the two cam sprockets, and one from crank to cam. See, e.g. For Skoda Fabia 6Y5 1.4 16V Genuine Gates Timing Cam Belt | eBay UK Not sure what's the best way to check the timing correlation.

That thin brown from battery negative is shown for Roomster May 2007 onward. It is routed from elsewhere (not battery neg) from May 2008 onward though, so I guess maybe this car is later than that. Cars with this later arrangement have a brown/green wire instead of plain brown. Strangely our 2012 Roomster has the thin wire to batt negative clamp, so they appear to have reverted to this arrangement later. It terminates at pin 8 of the connector that goes into XS4 on the BCM. Another wire that may be relevant is a permanent supply from battery fusebox fuse #11 ( 5 Amp) to XS4 pin 5 (thin red wire).

The other end goes to the BCM, same connector as the blue exciter wire I think. Will tell you pin number tomorrow.

Hi, and yes, should be no problem to repair that. I'll send you a private message with contact info. 👍

Is the thin brown wire that connects to the negative battery clamp still connected?

Yes. I will think about this situation overnight, and look at circuit diagrams tomorrow. It seems like you have done a very thorough investigation already, so I'm not sure I can suggest much.

EGR would be just to the right of the green oil pressure switch if there was one. Your car has not got one. Have you searched for problems with automatic mk1 fabias in this forum? I think there have been a few discussions in the last few years. Search using engine code (BKY?) and automatic as search terms, I suggest. Maybe using an external search engine rather than the forum's own.

Switch to a mk1 or mk2 Fabia?

You can also tag a user to get their attention by typing an @ character immediately followed by their username. They might then send you a message.

Reply to this, and a few other comments, until you have 20 posts.

The shades do fit together properly (magnets, I've been told?), but still buzz.

Useful to know, thanks. I'll have to try to come up with something simple, like buy her a black blanket; she likes blankets. 😁

Things are settling down a little with the major problems on our recently acquired Roomster, so it's time to try to solve a couple of more minor things. First and most annoying, the panoramic roof shades. Whether open, shut or somewhere in between, there's a buzzing noise coming from them intermittently; always the same pitch and volume when it does happen. Is this a common thing? How to fix please!? It's not hugely loud, but quite an annoying noise when it's happening. Sometimes seems to go away if you pinch the two handles together when they're fully shut. Can't really drive safely with one hand holding those tight together though. Secondly, the parcel shelf gap. There's a fair sized gap between front edge of parcel shelf and rears of the rear seats. Enough that a thief could readily see if there is or isn't something in the boot. This isn't something daft like I've been given the wrong parcel shelf by the previous owner is it? If it's normal, what do folks do to alleviate this problem? I know the outer seats can be reclined a bit, which helps close the gap, but not completely, and the middle seat doesn't, I don't think? Reclining also reduces the available space in the boot. Seems odd.

Find the part number that's printed on each part your want to change. Almost every part on the car has its part number written on it in some way. You will find that it has some characters beyond the usual 9-character core part number and 0, 1 or 2 letter suffix. At the end you will see something like 47H [the code for onyx]. For that VIN, for example, the full part number for the centre console is currently 5J0863241 47H. For each part you want to get, just read that full number off the part you remove, and buy exactly the same.

The wiring inside the door panel is rarely a problem. The wiring between the door and the A-pillar, on the other hand, is an extremely common problem. Did you check that? Under the rubber bellows that attaches over the connector at the A-pillar?

Are you reading that part number off individual pads? Pads are sold by Skoda in axle sets, with a part number that doesn't match what's actually printed on each pad. You can possibly find what you're looking for via sites such as this: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Note though that there are multiple different options of front and rear brake set-ups, so be sure you've picked the right diagram for your disc size etc. If in doubt, let me know and we can look up via your VIN.

@Carlston typo in your post above, I'm sure you meant to write 1ZE for the front PR code rather than 1KE. Good reminder about the rear disc depth "gotcha". 👍