Breezy_Pete

Great info, especially the weighing thing. 🙂

A spare Roomster steering knuckle inside a large zip lock bag will do it, especially when near the outside edge of the seat towards the seatback. A bottle of red wine on the inner edge isn't enough, but if you press down on it it a little, it is. 🤪 Thought of you yesterday, Lee. Had a team of Openreach wiremen digging a hole in the pavement right outside our house. We don't have a landline any more, but they seemed to find and fix the problem and refill the hole pretty efficiently. Blamed it on Virgin Media's fibre installers, who'd been very much in the same spot recently.

I was so close to trying to chase a phantom wiring fault from under driver's seat towards the airbag module where these wires go. That would've driven me more bonkers!

I knew a 2012 car was going to be too clever for me! 😆

That's great, thanks @Robjon . I experimented on the way home with variously heavy items in various positions on passenger seat. Doesn't take a great deal of weight. Problem solved, I think. :)

Yep, AKF valve is the German abbreviation for purge valve. Pretty sure the actual purge valve is the grey bit we identified above. Bit of an expensive parts-cannon guess, by the looks of the pre-VAT prices.

Via a tester plugged into the spot where the pressure switch is, according to the criteria I listed in your other thread. Unfortunately there's no guidance in the workshop manual about what should happen in between the minimum and maximum criteria, except by inference that it should rise towards 5 bar with rising revs, but no clue about what is 'normal behaviour'.

I doubt it. Did you try measuring pressures at operating temp?

Have any Roomster owners experienced what appear to be false warning bong/light relating to seatbelts? Have been chasing down what I assumed to be an intermittent fault with the receiving latch for driver's side front seatbelt. Had the disappointment yesterday of fitting a 'new' latch only to have my partner report that there was one brief instance of the 'bong' warning on the very next journey. Whilst looking at the wiring diagram this morning, with a view to eliminating the green connector pair under driver's seat, I noticed that there's an asterisked option of passenger front seat belt latch sensing, together with an occupancy sensor - G452 Pressure sensor for seat occupied recognition. Checked the car and it does have wiring from the belt receiving latch, so it appears to have this option. Now wondering if the occasional false triggering is actually being caused by bags on passenger seat? No such occupancy sensor on previous cars, so we habitually do put bags there. Apparently there was a fairly heavy bag there on the trip yesterday evening. Anyone experienced this? Thanks for any feedback.

Can't see clearly enough from those pics, maybe one can just about see a connector and wire hanging down in the first pic, under the black pipe that's coming out of it going rightwards? If you supply reg or VIN, I can look up part number for you.

If you go to erWin Skoda and register an account (free to do so) you can then click on the link a little below the register button on the homepage and view ">Approved oil types". Amongst the list for 504/507 oils that have been tested and approved by VW group, there is a fair proportion (maybe 30%?) of the oils in the long list that are 0W30 rather than 5W30.

Does the grey thing have an electrical connector? Looks the right shape for a purge valve. Is there a part number visible on it? I seem to remember the purge valve on recentish models tends to come with a whole gubbins of pipework as an assembly with an overall part number. It looks rather like that grey one is 'plumbed into' various other bits without being easily separable.

Correct, main chain has hydraulic tensioner, oil pump has a more basic 'springy bent bit of metal' tensioning arrangement for its chain, I seem to remember. The deep-tone knocking noise sounds quite worrying, if that's the one the video is trying to demonstrate. Not sure what might cause that. How many km has the car travelled?

@schmooser there are three oil pressure switches on this engine: 04L919081, a green one rated 0.3-0.6 bar, 03N919081, a grey one rated 2.0-2.7 bar, and 04L919081B, a brown one rated 2.3-3.0 bar 1st and 3rd are as you thought in your opening post. I vaguely recall two of these being close to one another, and the third elsewhere, not as easily spotted.

I'm not familiar with the terminology HDI, not a VW group description I think. Assuming it's a 1.6 CR TDI, the workshop info suggests the following test criteria (with pre-condition of coolant temperature at 80° minimum): Oil pressure when engine idling: min. 0.08 MPa (0.8 bar) Oil pressure at 2000 rpm: min. 0.15 MPa (1.5 bar) Oil pressure at higher engine speed: max. 0.5 MPa (5.0 bar) The last one of those is perhaps the only one that is questionable on your engine. Try it again with engine at full operating temperature (after a run of say 15 minutes plus). The oil pressure switch that you have tee'd into cannot give a numerical pressure reading to any control unit, it's just open or closed circuit switch to ground, so no diagnostic readout of oil pressure is available through the car's native systems.

Your shock absorber part number is just about visible on the sticker, 6Q0413031BJ. Again, the letters make all the difference among the variants.

The paint dots are VW group's way of identifying unique spring part numbers. Same springs on the front of our Roomy, genuine part number is 6Q0411105AG. Don't fall into the common trap of thinking the letters at the end don't matter much. In this and many other cases, the letters are the only differences in the part numbers amongst all the different variants of spring.

This thread suggests that is where it's located: Car alarm keeps sounding - Skoda Fabia Mk3 (2014-2021) - BRISKODA

Hmm, our Roomster has same engine, same TB part number and 160k, and pretty sure it's on original TB. Fault code suggests possible wiring fault, no?

I don't see that disconnecting the vehicle battery can make matters any worse then; so worth trying? I'd remove the thing for you tomorrow if you were a lot closer.

No problem. How many miles has the car done?

If it were me, I'd grab a secondhand genuine 03f133062, ideally from a lower milage car.

If you pull the fuse (#17) for the alarm horn, at least any time it subsequently goes off, if it does at all, will deplete the internal battery until it's empty. Indicators may still flash if alarm is triggered, but that's a bit less antisocial.

Yep, correct part number for this car is 03F133062, not superseded by anything.

Will look up in a sec, but if original TB is not giving faults, why are you replacing it?