Breezy_Pete

Leave them alone. There's no way I know of to check torque on bolts that have been torque plus angle tightened. What number would you even check them against?

I've edited my answer to your last thread on this subject. I do think it will physically fit, but I doubt it will work properly, as 6y2959801 is used on the passenger door in cars where it is fitted, and there is a master/slave relationship between the drivers and passenger side units. Some components are omitted from the circuit board on the slave units, compared to the masters (acknowledging a recent contribution from @Bertie90 here. ).

I'm not sure you need to do the thermoswitch bypassing test though, I'd be pretty confident that you've got a failed low-speed function on the main fan.

It wasn't the photo I thought I'd taken, but this shows the clip style; not sure how much that helps. If you link me to the post with the broken picture I can probably fix it, which would be good.

I may be able to find a photo of the connector support taken from the other side. I remember taking one...

There was a post from someone offering vcds lite registered; gone before you read it apparently.

Yep, standard 'Climatic' A/C system.

Ok, well if the light's not on, then your A/C isn't doing anything, so it won't be affecting your mpg. The fan bearings are probably worn and corroded. Fiddly access but not difficult to swap another fan in there. The airflow you're experiencing is just passive by the sounds of it, due to the movement of the car. Does it stop blowing when you stop? Just pop up a photo of your A/C/heating controls to make sure we're all on the same page.

A/C will/should not switch on if the cabin fan isn't running, are you saying yours does? (Does the light in the switch go on/off when you press switch with fan at 0?) Is the squeaking sound in the cabin or the engine bay?

You don't mention having removed the hub nut?

I've got the same one you have anewman, but it did splay out in use, would be better with some normal bolts that would sit down flat across the slots, where radius seat wheel bolts will only touch at a pair of points either side of the slot and allow the thing to distort under load. I managed to squeeze it back into the original shape in a big vice, then acquired such bolts for next time (which hasn't happened yet). Are the thread knackered? Doe sit just turn and turn without progressing? @TMB's one looks a better design, and good value.

Dunno fellas but one of the hundred-odd search results in that link I posted must discuss the rear end, I'd've thought? Send a photo of the offending items to your respective dealerships and invite comment? Put the ball in their court, see if they're suitably embarrassed?

If definitely mk1, go here:

Is it a mk1 or a mk2? If you're uncertain tell us what the 7th and 8th characters are in the VIN.

Measure again in September Gaz, changing too early is both financially and environmentally wasteful.

Soy-based plastics in the cable insulation rather than petroleum-based, I've heard. Not used in older cars.

It's not at all unheard of for dealerships to fail to remove the 'transport blocks' from the suspension before delivery. Showing results for '"transport blocks"'. - BRISKODA

Pretty sure his was a rear bearing. Considerably easier to swap around.

I think it's not too bad to remove as long as the three screws holding the 'tripod' to the main fan shroud are not too rusted. Be very careful to get your T30 torx bit fully engaged in the screw heads before trying to turn, or you are likely to round the heads off.

There's a member on here called @Carlston who is extremely good at researching the details of wheels, springs and other suspension bits, and finding best equivalences between OE and aftermarket parts. If you're lucky he may apply his impressive skills towards helping you.

Yep, middle pin to the outer one with brown wire should bring on the low speed, bet it doesn't. There's a fix you can do rather than replacing the fan, involving an external power resistor, if you fancy saving money compared to fan replacement. At 20 years old though, the fan is maybe due for replacement. Radiator fan repair, courtesy of Vortex, here and UK-MKIV forum - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA My latest repair just cable-tied such a resistor to the fan holder:

It's quite common for the low speed function to fail on these fans; when you tested by directly powering through the fan connector of the big one, did you get it running at both speeds?

I'm still puzzling over this. That connector includes the main earth to that unit, so is probably a bit like switching your computer off and on again. As the heart of the CAN bus system it probably fans out and resets other modules too, but the window motor modules aren't on the CAN bus. The only connections to that Voltage Control unit from the window motor modules are the two 'door open switch' wires that come from the microswitches in the door locks via the window modules. So it might be that something to do with the door open switch has got that unit and/or the window motor module in a muddle? There is also CAN bus connectivity between that voltage control unit and the Central Convenience unit (that looks after door locking stuff and radio remote control), and the central convenience unit has a direct wired connection to each of the window modules. I think this connection may be to do with being able to raise/lower windows by holding down the lock or unlock buttons on the remote, but not sure. Does Roomster or Fabia Mk2 have that function? @Bertie90 I'm also curious about the difference(s) between the circuit boards inside the passenger and drivers side window motor modules. I've only got a drivers side one to look at, do you have a photo of a passenger side one? The actual circuit board. I think some of the photos in this thread may be of the passenger side one from your Roomster, but I want to be sure I know what I'm looking at, rather than assuming. Everyone says the drivers side is the 'master' unit, so it would be nice if there was some obvious difference, like a simpler circuit board with fewer bits fitted or something on the passenger one, so you could tell just by looking at one.

Ah I see what you mean, vertically below engine ECU I think. Be careful disconnecting, I seem to remember someone saying that the cable latch is tricky or unintuitive or something. Never undone one personally.

Just came across something interesting and hopefully relevant to the motor rotation direction in a youtube video about window motors. Check out what he does and says at about the 17 minute mark here: Electric window motor bench test, strip & fix #1423 - YouTube Rather than having swapped the rotors between passenger and drivers side, you may have put both motor covers on the opposite way to how they were? I will bench test this at home later. Thinking about it, it must be the relative orientations of brushpack and cover that matter, and I can't remember whether or not the brushpack can fit into the cover either way round. Wish I had one in front of me now.