Breezy_Pete

Nasty! Is that a helicoil in your pick-up strainer? (Not a sentence I ever expected to see).

What, no 'thanks'?...lol

The relevant erWin document that covers brake systems for your model probably has a table of codings. You may or may not be able to find a free source of this info at e.g. workshop-manuals.com, or a ripped-off copy via google. Here's an example relating to mk1 Fabia just to show you the sort of thing I mean. Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk1 > Chassis > ABS, ADR, TCS, EDL, ESP > Code control unit - ABS BOSCH 8.0 > Table of codes (workshop-manuals.com) erWin documents can be downloaded for a small fee (7 Euros plus tax for shortest session).

The OP isn't wanting to drive faster than the limit! Whether it's enforceable or not is utterly irrelevant.

M5 judging by this: fuel filter - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

It might just be this, J519 (Central Electrics) top, Instruments bottom. Those are the drive CAN connections. There's also a 'wake up' connection, pin 11 of the same connector at J519 to pin 24 of the instruments connector, but I don't know what is waking up what or whether it needs to be connected to get the two modules communicating.

I'll try to find time to have a play around and see what the minimum connectivity requirement is.

Try unplugging it for a minute, or pulling the main permanent 12V fuse for that side if easier.

Sounds like the brake servo vacuum pipe has fallen apart. Follow it back from the brake servo towards the engine.

Did you use the appropriate tooling to fit the hew front hub/bearing? It's a bad idea to press these in by pushing on the hub face.

Send me that driver's side circuit board, I may well be able to fix that. PM me in the morning.

With the 8-way connector plugged in, measure voltage at the point arrowed here, instead of trying at the capacitor solder joint. It could be that the component to the right of the arrow (a diode) has been shorted out and blown up. You can see the tracks go from that diode to the capacitor and onwards towards other stuff. Note that tilting the capacitor over like that (as I've done purely to show the tracking under it) is likely to damage the capacitor so don't do it unless you have a spare. In fact, measure voltage both sides of that diode (red meter probe on each diode solder joint in turn; black probe to the earth connection - the pin that thick brown wire goes to).

I wonder if the person that swapped that capacitor has damaged the pad that the positive terminal goes to? I'll just make a little demo of a possible fix for you and post a photo.

Take it back?

Very helpful once again, thanks. Bloody odd though. I thought the passenger side would still manage to get its own actions right from its local switch even if the driver's side system is all muddled up.

The key thing with such fasteners is that it's a Philips head not a posidrive one. Posidrive bits don't fit correctly and will tend to chew up the head, which then promotes corrosion. screw - Is it a bad idea to use a Pozidriv screwdriver on a Phillips head? - Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Stack Exchange

I can't picture how you've managed to fit that without removing all of the old sleeve clamp, but to be honest I'm now giving up on ever knowing what it looks like under all the debris. I think that will prove to be a rather short-lasting repair but hopefully I'm wrong.

Still not clear to me. Did you ever get the whole of the old sleeve clamp off, both sides of where it rusted/broke through? Is the exhaust repair kit like a bandage you just wrap around?

So was there anything wrong with the front bit of the middle section, or was all of the carnage just the sleeve clamp?

Cheers, but just so I'm sure I know what you mean...the switch in the left door for the left window?, or the switch in the right door for the left window? If this makes no sense it's probably because a Roomster has a different layout of controls than what I'm used to. I have now measured the resistances that the switches in the drivers door 'offer' to the motor module. This is an aftermarket switch module to suit a late mk1 Fabia, doubt it will be much different to a genuine one, or a Roomster one. Both passenger and driver's side switch in the drivers door offer the same selection of four options. 1. Press switch down to the first detent - 150 Ohms to earth 2. Press switch fully down - short/0 Ohms to earth 3. Pull switch up to first detent - 1.8k Ohms to earth 4. Pull switch up fully - 530 Ohms to earth. They go to different pins on the motor module, driver's side switch to pin 7 of the 8-way connector on a black/green wire, passenger side switch goes to pin 1 of the 6-way on a white/black wire. Next task is to look at the circuitry inside the motor module that deals with these inputs. Thanks for your valuable contributions to my investigations Rob.

Nice solder splat just near VR1! Can't see Ross-Tech writing nothing but VAG ver: 2.01 on theirs. Or using "VAG" at all?

The case of Bertie's looks more granular than a genuine one, doesn't it? Like it's 3D printed faster/cheaper? Not sure, just going by some google image results.

If you operate the passenger side window from its local switch does that also go the opposite way to expected?

The fact that you get the same 'backwards' operation via key in lock and the switch panel suggests to my little brain that it can't be either of those external things at fault, but must be something within the window module, too much of a coincidence otherwise.

There are at least two connections from the driver's side door lock unit that go to the window module, the 'door open' signal and the key position sensing. The door open signal also goes to the onboard supply control unit, for its purposes to do with interior lighting control and probably other things. The key position info is also hardwired through to the Central Convenience control unit that deals with the locking stuff, for obvious reasons. The former is presumably related to the behaviour you noted above about the window operation ceasing when the door is opened after ignition off, the latter is what allows the 'key held round each way' window opening/shutting, I guess. The door open microswitch connects pin 8 of the lock module to earth (pin 7) when the door is open, and doesn't when the door is closed. The key position signal comes out on pin 4 of the lock module. It is shorted to earth when/while the key is held in the 'lock' position, and is connected to earth via a 180 Ohm resistor when held the other way. When the key isn't turned either way, it doesn't connect to anything, I think. I like your idea about the worm screws but I think it probably isn't that, as I've heard it described a few times and doubt that others have simultaneously had both motors in bits. Did you clean the commutators/gaps?