Breezy_Pete

Here you go @Lord_Moppy. My set-up for talking to the J519 module off the car. Hacked-about KKL cable with K-line (blue wire), 0V and 12V (red) connections broken out. Main permanent 12V (red) and earth (black) connections: 18-way brown connector Ignition 12V (pin 12) K-line (pin 1) Permanent 12V (pin 5) Earth (pin 8) And everything on The pin 5 and pin 8 connections on the 18-way aren't essential for VCDS to talk to the module, but having them hooked up removes some errors to do with battery voltage. To connect other modules in, power the individual module with whatever supplies it requires, and hook up the relevant CAN connections to either XS2 (convenience CAN bus) and/or XS6 (drive CAN). Haven't tried that yet.

The UV torches are very cheap. Just looked on Amazon, and currently there are some at <£3.50. It may be the case that this will work even without dye in the system, if there's something in the PAG oil that fluoresces. I might test that theory today, as I have a small pot of oil. Edit: tested just now and that's a negative. If the system has near zero pressure it's the perfect time to fix any leaks that might be found this way. A 168g container that magically turns into 453g of gas sounds fraudulently dodgy.

Detection is feasible via a combination of Central Electrics (09) coding and indicator lighting circuit impedance decrease. On my Polos, a simple/single increment of the coding tells it to 'expect trailer addition sometimes'; then the decrease in impedance caused by the parallel trailer-board indicator bulb compared to its absence tells the electronics (in module 09) driving the indicators that there are more bulbs in circuit. All the indicators are driven by a chip that has load current monitoring. The detection is only used for the trailer indicator telltale in those cars, to the best of my knowledge; but could be used for other things I guess, once the addition is 'spotted' by the system. I knew for sure it was the impedance difference that was involved when I tried the LED lighting board for my boat trailer, and it failed to correctly illuminate the trailer indicator telltale on the dash. Some resistors to ground across those two LEDs to mimic 'real' bulbs in that lighting board solved this problem.

So there's probably a way to open that trunking. Get in there and start pulling and poking.

Take a Stanley knife to the silvery heatshield if you can't be bothered to undo it via the clips that just unscrew (mid-bottom of photo). Then tuck the new one behind the flap and gaffer-tape it shut. Can't see enough of the next bit along to help much, but tyrapping it to the other pipe that seems to go through something would be an easy solution. Show us some more photos, give us a chance.

Wow, worst one I've seen. Glad you got to that before it completely fell off. Do you know who the previous owner is/was? If so you should thank them very sarcastically for that repair...

I wonder if much/any ambient air would really enter? Once there's no pressure difference, there won't be anything to promote much flow in or out. Thermal cycling of engine bay will do a bit I guess. Very dependent on size/cause of leak I guess.

Here a couple of images from the UV torch (of our 2005 mk1 Fabia). High pressure connections to expansion valve and condenser IIRC. I subsequently found that the output connection at the compressor was worse than both of these, and apart from access to the latter, none were too tricky to get at to swap in new o-rings.

I could have a go at repairing it if you can be without it for a few days? PM me if interested.

This was posted very recently, and sounds like it could be relevant:

I bought a cheap UV LED torch off ebay which shows up leaks if there's ever been any dye put in the system. Not sure if it works if there hasn't ever been a recharge with dye. Greenish glow shows leakage if I remember rightly. Will need to be dark outside, or close to it, for best visibility.

Only on earlier engine variants where that was its only function, to help shut the engine off cleanly. The throttle bodies in both petrol and diesels are often referred to as "controller lid" within ETKA parts lists. e.g. item 2 here exhaust gas recirculation - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) Always seems like a dodgy translation from the German.

My last sentence answers your question as 1. You need to find an oil that meets the appropriate VW group spec, and that's it. SAE grade whatever.

Create a login at erWin Skoda, then view the relevant oil specs that interest you from the link on the homepage erWin Online | Škoda Auto | Approved oils (skoda-auto.cz) Then you can review every oil that is approved to any and every VW group spec, comparing SAE viscosity ranges within each category. Complying with the appropriate VW-group standard for your car and servicing regime is necessary and sufficient in order to get the right oil type.

OK, well there's no resistor pack, but there's a solid-state module that does the same job, probably 50/50 whether it's that at fault or the fan itself. How many miles on the clock? Never seen one in the flesh, but I think it is also difficult to access, like the fan. I'll have to defer to mk2 owners with similar age/equipment cars to yours at this point, or I'd be guessing about how to access stuff.

Have you checked fuse number 39 in the dash fuseholder?

Keep charging it, sometimes it takes a few goes.

Here's one I found a couple or three years back; a neighbour's 2005 Polo:

With a bit of luck you'll kill two birds with one stone; lose the unstable idle, and gain brake booster performance. I bet there's a vast number of VW group cars running around with this issue. You may be mildly surprised to find your brand new genuine replacement appears to have zero changes to the design or materials.

I see that I forgot to check the wiring I made up for my J519. Day off tomorrow so I'll see what I can find.

That does seem logical. If you wanted to prove it you could swap the bearings/hubs and see if the fault swaps sides?

If you have 185/60R14 tyres, I think it must be the first one!

I carry a decent gauge and a footpump. Makes it easy for checking/correcting the pressure in any tyre that's in use or about to be, wherever I am.

165/70/R14 (on 5J wheels) is a standard size for Mk1 Fabia. That would have about the same rolling radius but be more than 10% narrower so might be worth trying if you can find some cheap tyres/rims in that size, for comparison. No rpm advantage, but that would only help on the highway anyway I think, once you run out of higher gears to choose.