Breezy_Pete

You replied to me as well. Don't feel you have to though.

Thanks for your contribution.

My time, my energy.

Yeah, as and when. No heated shed so won't be for some time... I've never taken the bottom end of an engine apart so not too sure what order to do things, nor what to look for. Expect to see trouble with bearings and/or piston rings I think.

You mean the seatbelt? That came on the replacement engine, so I figured, it's already worked. Engine plus pallet plus free tyre was only 95kg according to the shipping info, so well adequate. Should've seen what I used to lift the old engine out...

A small selection of photos: Front of car off, ready to extract old engine Replacement bolted in, lots of connecting up still to do at end of Thursday

That is a very neat repair.

Top work as always Lee.

With engine idling, fully warmed up following a twenty minute drive, I looked under the bonnet and removed the engine cover so I could see around the area better. There was no glowing of any colour, even when I looked from the sides to see under the heatshield. I took this photo horizontally from just in front of the battery, looking across towards exhaust manifold/cat : Ambient temperature was a chilly 0.5°C though.

I'm not very familiar with your engine type, but two rubber hoses, one thicker than the other; close to oil filler cap at one end, from memory. There are others who will be able to help better later, I feel sure.

I seem to remember that the o-ring seal for the cam sensor is available as a separate part, which should save money. Have you checked that the breather hoses and their connection points are all unblocked? Oil leaks usually only happen because the engine breathing isn't working properly.

Cam sensor; too many wires for an oil pressure switch. My go-to parts lookup site is offline just now. Will check back tomorrow.

I promise I'll have a look this evening after dark, I have to shuffle cars around anyway before the morning.

Yes Lee. Seemed easier that way with the facilities I had. I'm not fond of peeing about with driveshafts when working near ground level. Last-minute snag with a fuel hose leak, only apparent once running, but solved with a foot of fresh stuff from a local factor.

It's in and working nicely. Didn't arrive til 11.15 yesterday, but things went pretty well thereafter. Might chuck some pics up tomorrow.

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Dunno, sorry. @langers2k is the kind of excellent fella that might know though.

No probs. The first two fuses mentioned are in the engine bay fusebox.

21 CANL to gateway pin 6 23 CANH to gateway pin 16

Pin 1, red wire permanent 12V from fuse 4 Pin 14, red/green permanent 12V from fuse 16 Pin 20, black grey ignition 12V from cabin fuse 2 Pin 26, brown/black chassis/earth. CAN to follow

Possibility of valve damage.

What to check on the replacement engine turned out to be a premature concern, as it didn't turn up at all this morning, or any other time before close of play. Good progress on removing the old. Front of car pivoted out the way, engine crane supporting the engine, now connected by nothing but a couple of bolts. Small independent courier operating as a local depot for Palletways have it booked for delivery tomorrow by 11am. Frustratingly it's only about 3 miles away. If it doesn't make it by 11 I'm going to go and get it with my trailer. They claim most of their drivers are off sick with Covid. Could be true.

Not Skodas/VW group cars in my experience. You barely get a spare cm of wire, let alone wires for things that aren't there

Turns out I really should've gone down this path. Despite solving the judder/clutch problem, and refurbing the top end and chain stuff, she's still 'orrible sounding and looking at idle, and I'm thinking that at 177k miles this engine block is 'over'. Replacement should be turning up on a pallet this morning, and have today/tomorrow set aside for the swap. What checks ought I to do on it while it's on the pallet? Thinking I probably oughta check the chain timing with the locking tools. Probably plugs out for a check too. Anything else? @Tech1e, your advice would be very welcome, as would anyone/everyone else's. Cheers.

No problem. Just in case you think "it can't be the fuse cos the scanner made them work", that would be the other fuse.