Breezy_Pete

If I look up CTHD for Golf and CTHE for Fabia I see the same part number for crankshaft (well, from Feb 2011 onwards in Fabia). Haven't checked any other parts, but someone else may be kind enough? crankshaft; conrod; bearings - Golf/Variant/4Motion(GOLF) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com) crankshaft; conrod; bearings - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com) My Czech reading skills are poor, but are you sure that isn't talking about differences between CAVE and CTHE engines?

Where did you read this?

Really... got a link to show your information source? Are you talking about the same Britoil as the OP? What Skoda do you drive?

I very rarely drink out of wineboxes actually. Portion size is a bit large... (Except on special occasions)

The 5W40 I bought recently came in same cube box with a 'winebox-like' thick plastic bladder inside it. Saves on plastic I guess. Haven't used it yet so can't comment on how easy it is to pour out of that arrangement, but when I looked inside I thought "that'll be OK".

Are there definitely physical component differences, not just software/mapping? If there were physical differences, you'd kinda expect that sticker to be specific and include the fourth letter of the code?

Here I think:

Quantum is a VW group owned spares brand, as I understand it, not an oil manufacturer. Quantum oil is currently manufactured by Fuchs, I believe. Used to be Castrol for a while if I remember rightly. It's good value from ebay, and obviously is approved to the various VW specs. I've used little else in the last five or so years.

Yep

Relay carrier below the e-box, apparently, position 1.

I think this is a good idea, yes. It will localise the problem to either the battery or a parasitic drain. Once it's clear whether or not the battery can hold a charge on its own, it'll be easier to find out what else may be going on. What I'd do is disconnect the battery from the car, just the earth lead will do, then put the charger on the battery for as long as it says it's doing something. Then disconnect the charger and wait a couple of hours. Now measure battery voltage (which should hopefully be around 12.6, but a little temperature dependent so note the ambient temperature during the measurement. If it gets nowhere near this voltage try applying the charger again, patience may be rewarded on this. You cna reverse some battery degradation with persistent charging. Wait a day or two and remeasure, or check it once a day over a few days. Anything to see if it's staying 'up' when not connected to the car. 14.1 is a little lower than optimal for charging from the alternator, so it may be worth cleaning up some earth connections while the battery negative is disconnected. Main engine to chassis one, both ends of, would be my first choice.

There's something very wrong with your voltage readings. Meter or operator, dunno which; try a new battery in the meter if it isn't recent.

Use vacuum extraction to remove oil via dipstick tube in future, or attempt thread repair, or change sump.

The designed function (legal requirement) isn't to remove a maintenance need, but to give a heads-up about an emergent, dangerous tyre deflation situation. As such it doesn't need to have accuracy with respect to actual tyre pressure. The wheel size and tyre size/width/aspect ratio/load rating/temperature will all have impacts on the relationship between rolling radius and tyre pressure, so the pressure change required to give a warning is fairly irrelevant. As with a lot of these mandated safety systems, over-reliance on them ("no need to check tyre pressures any more, the car looks after that for me") will be foolish.

There's some lockdown viewing! Thanks.

The car will charge the battery as and when it needs it, as long as it actually gets used. (Easily checked with a multimeter measuring volts across the battery, anything equal to or less than the 'off' voltage is clearly not charging the battery, anything higher clearly is). A member whose username escapes me just now did some logs of voltage and current on his car recently, and it was clear that the car varied the charging voltage according to how the battery was at the start of a journey, and how the system voltage behaved during the journey, as well as doing the high voltage charging 'spikes' during overrun etc.

Fingers crossed for you.

Have you tried giving that section surrounding the cluster a gentlish tug towards the steering wheel, from the bottom edge?

There aren't any sensors. It works by magic using the wheel speed sensors (ABS).

I don't think you need to have functioning windows for MOT? For number 6 try cleaning the connections (careful with the main positive one, disconnect battery negative first). Can't explain it, but not long into ownership of our Fabia the starter motor was screeching after it did its work. Went to change it but was thwarted by a socket set lacking an 18mm. Cleaned up the connections, tried it again and everything was working right. Still have the unused spare starter somewhere that hasn't been needed since. 6 or 7 years ago at least now.

Check cabin fuse 10, it may be relevant.

What year is the car?

Going off with ignition implies when you turn the key all the way anticlockwise, rather than removing the key; which do you mean? Is it an OEM radio or aftermarket?, if the latter it has probably been wired in wrongly, they generally are.

Check the part number printed somewhere on the cubby and buy one with exactly the same number. Think the pre and post facelift versions may be different, not sure. But also check whether it's something on the cubby that's broken, or something on the bit it clips into.

It should go off as you take the key out of the ignition barrel, I think.