Breezy_Pete

PR code is at the top of the info table on the right, data model column. If you're browsing on a phone sometimes some columns go awol. The other 288 version (in 2012) has red painted calipers and carriers, as per this page: disc brake - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) 1ZD PR code.

Oh man, I just read aren't painted as are painted and deleted the previous reply! Re-instating: 1ZC floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; cal... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com)

And are the calipers coloured or natural?

I'm seeing someother options for later mk2s so need to know the year also.

Think it must be one of the two listed here: 1LN or 1ZH* floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com) Assume they are 288mm discs? What year is the car? *See further replies below, this isn't right

Front brake PR code is often missing from the sticker; unhelpfully. I'll find out what you need though, from FN3, I think, 1 minute.

Damn, that's unlucky!

If they'd just driven a lap of the car park all those warnings would've gone out on their own, without all the faff.

I presume you ignored my post because you don't have DSG gearbox?

Sump might even be plastic, as might the sump plug. Too new for my experience though. There's nothing quite like having a look though. Take a magnet with you, and you'll soon be able to tell whether it's steel or aluminium, if it isn't plastic.

Sure, no problem.

Or DSG thermostat if you have that type of gearbox? Seems more common failure than engine thermostat. Easier to change too, I believe.

1 yes 2 no harm at all

Looking healthier. Maybe try not charging it for a few days and just measure voltage to see if it holds at a good level?

I'd be surprised if it didn't last ten.

Standard factory exhausts are a low grade stainless I think; is your concern longevity or looks?

One final suggestion. The fill plug is much harder to reach than the drain plug, so should be the first one that you loosen. You don't want to drain all the oil out and then find that you can't get the fill plug open to refill it. Both will seem quite tight if they've never been opened before.

Correct, with the fill plug being higher, obviously. Both at the rear of the overall gearbox housing though. Buy a pair of axle stands.

Cos it's right at the back of the housing.

You may really have trouble getting all the old oil out if you don't lift the front of the car. Examine the gearbox housing and position of the drain plug and you'll see why.

2 litres is specified. You will have to be very patient when draining it (with front of car high) to get it all out, preferably starting with warm oil. When refilling, expect to find that it seems to overflow before the whole 2 litres has been poured, but if car is level in all directions and you fill it slowly, you should see most of two litres go in. Common problem is to try to do it with only the front of the car lifted, which will fail.

My google is no more powerful than yours, but do try adding single and double spaces between the G and the rest of the number with the whole lot inside "marks" to pick up all format variations that may have been used in both part numbers.

Ignore that then.

Ah, sorry, I understand. If it is dripping oil on the road, then it should be changed, but if it is just looking slightly oily, leave it alone. The left one (short dirveshaft side) is much easier to access with the gearbox in the car, but both could be possible to change without gearbox removal. The other side would be very much harder to do, as there is a lot of stuff in the way from every direction.

Are you talking about the oil or the bearings now? Bearing change is total strip-down of gearbox as shown in the video.