Breezy_Pete

HAPPY FOR YOU!

Seller has good feedback scores on lots of sales, so yeah, fine.

Winds circle round areas of low pressure and tend to be strong in storms, so depends where you are relative to the centre of the low. The centre doesn't stay still though, and neither did you. I'm sure I could look up historical met data for both your long journeys, but I can't summon that much interest. It could be a significant factor though, often neglected. Long term fill-to-fill mileages are the only real indication.

Doesn't matter as long as it's to 507 00.

Don't suppose you noticed the wind directions on your long trips? I imagine they would - on average - tend to be more favourable northbound than southbound, so reducing the delta in mpgs, possibly?

The magnitude of the voltage peaks is interesting to me, minimally higher than a conventional alternator (at cold temps anyway). I have a feeling if I fire up my car shortly, at frosty degrees C I'll see similar initially. Seems to contradict the notion that start-stop batteries need a higher charging voltage than regular batts. In fact, almost all the time, they have a much lower one. @Andysuew Is your battery AGM or EFB? presumably still the original? Could you estimate the ambient temperature in which these logs were taken? Pretty warm in your location I guess, 30C+? The peaks don't seem to reduce noticeably during the course of each drive, so engine bay temperature doesn't seem to modulate the peaks down. Have you considered doing a comparative log with LIN connection to alternator unplugged? A UK winter-time data set (or just peak voltage numbers) might be interesting, anyone over here doing some monitoring on one of these new-fangled systems? Here's my 'voltage across battery posts' at first start at around 0°C, conventional alt, and battery. It reduces as the engine bay warms down to around 14.3V.

1.6 engines had the airflow thingy, 2.0s didn't - no hardware changes at all. Software/firmware same thing in this context, I think.

I'm 99% certain that wouldn't have been an MOT failure either.

I think you might end up replacing springs unnecessarily, but if you hang onto the old ones, at least you'll have spares in case of breakage of new ones. The answer to why some manufacturers (or re-branders) may quote different dimensions is that they probably rationalise the many, many slightly different OE springs down to a subset of a few "that'll do". Just to point out PR code is not the same as part number, you seem to be using them interchangeably. Part number is the 1K0511115BH. PR codes are three characters, usually a mix of numerals and letters, such as the 0YD that specifies one aspect of the rear suspension. A number of these PR codes appear on the build data sticker in the boot. A full set can be had by asking a co-operative dealership parts person for the full 'car data' from the VIN.

What part number is the bit you've ordered, please? (the boot light on my missus's car is very 'hit and miss').

The 0YD PR code might appear on the boot-floor build data sticker, with a bit of luck. @Declan O'Shaughnessy could you have a look?

Nice work figuring out what's what. If you remove the microswitches is there enough info printed on them to ID them with a view to individual replacement?

The paint marks as shown in the photo would be enough to ID the OEM spring as the part number number the OP quotes, I think? Another thing to think about is that if the springs are both intact, and not unduly rusty at any point, they are probably actually fine. Rears don't tend to fail anything like as often as fronts, in my experience.

Do you have a Vernier caliper or micrometer to measure the thickness of the rear springs on the car? What Sachs part number are you looking at? According to the 7zap site, 994329 should be the equivalent Sachs part: @Carlston is the man when it comes to spring dimensions and equivalents though.

Click the three dots in the top right corner of your first post and see if you have an 'edit' option, I think you may not, it's time limited for non-Freedom members. If you do have the option, I think you can edit the title. If not, a kind moderator may be able to do so on your behalf.

Plastic mounting looks to be broken in your photo, so may be difficult to get back where it came from. Yes, as it is now, it's seeing the bonnet as open. Not sure but that may be the only problem. I've seen quite a few posts on here that suggest that merely opening the bonnet is enough to cancel* the oil level low warning light. Not seen the converse though, that an oil level warning can be prompted by having the bonnet appearing to be open. Have a look under the car in daylight or torchlight. If the connector for the level/temp sensor is unplugged it may be dangling in clear view. *temporarily, for some number of miles, I forget how many.

It'll be the microswitch that senses whether the bonnet is open or closed, for sure. Gaffer tape it so the circuit thinks the bonnet is shut, and tie it up out of the way. You should check to see if the connector is also unplugged from the oil level/temperature sensor in the sump; item 20 here cylinder block with pistons; oil sump - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)

Nice one.

Check for loose heatshields above exhaust back box area. Sometimes the retainers rust to nothing, other times the aluminium heatshield corrodes to nothing locally leaving the retainers behind on the studs.

Check the relevant fuse if the manual suggests that there is one.

Grey/white wire from ECU pin 39, grey/red from ECU pin 18, black/yellow is ign switched 12v from cabin fuse 3.

Almost certainly coincidence. Get fault code read and go from there rather than guessing.

Position 3 of the relay socket should have a permanent 12V supply from cabin fuse 27. Check that fuse.

On which car?

Both, I think.