Breezy_Pete

Possibly a coaxial cable then?

Sounds as though this garage may be a little out of their depth. Assuming this is a CBZB engine code version of 1.2 TSI, there is no 'communication' as such from or to the throttle body. It simply has two wires going to its dc motor and a further 4 that serve to provide analogue positional feedback to the engine ECU. When such a throttle body is replaced, it tends to be necessary to perform a throttle body alignment/adaptation (TBA). A device is plugged into the car, which puts the engine ECU into a mode where it learns the voltages of the feedback potentiometers at each end of the full range of movement of the throttle valve. Ask your garage if they performed this alignment after fitting the replacement.

Armed with the engine code I thought I'd find the location for you by scrutinising photos of Ebay listings for that engine. They often have good quality pics from all different angles. Only on my phone screen just now, and I haven't spotted it yet. Sorry.

Do you know your engine code? Can be found on a sticker on cambelt top cover, or as first characters of engine number on V5c.

DSG gearbox?

That connection is often the worst in the whole high-current system, in my experience. Temperature cycling and minimal protection from corrosion are probably factors.

PR code 9U1 also seems relevant, with wear sensor.

Front brake PR code for this car is 1LN. That should help disambiguate, I think.

Did the crank sensor come out without a struggle? Or are you not there yet?

No, in car.

Probably easier to take the intake manifold off to gain access from topside. On ours it wasn't helped by the white furry corrosion of the block's alloy, including down the hole that the crank sensor and crank locking pin go. Took ages to clean it out enough to get the pin fully in, even after manifold was out the way.

Are you sure it has power steering fluid? I'd have thought it would be electromechanical.

Wow, that was a bad blockage in the oil pick-up!

Typically, on earlier simpler models with A/C, the thermoswitch would only carry the relay coil current for each of the relays within fan control module (low and full speed) that drive the fan, so tends not to fail often at all. Thin wiring to it more likely to break/ fail than thermoswitch itself. Can't see any equivalent to this arrangement in citigo diagrams though. For non-A/C citigo it uses just one of its dual switches directly in series with rad fan 12V supply.

@MobileChicane I'm looking at wiring info for the fan control module, trying and failing to see how the radiator thermoswitch is involved on an A/C equipped Citigo of this vintage. You may find that either there physically isn't one, or that it isn't wired up. Not sure. Parts catalogue suggests it's there though.

Since the car has A/C, a quick and easy test of radiator fan operation is to run engine and demand minimum temperature with A/C switched on, bonnet open. That's assuming the A/C is actually operable/cooling successfully. At the sort of ambient temperatures we currently have, the radiator fan should start up at low speed within a pretty short time. Keep fingers away while waiting to see! I was just looking at wiring info, and the resistor for low speed fan operation appears not to be within the fan motor, but instead at a 3-way connector pair where 3 wires become 2. When the resistors were housed inside the fan motor assembly they were a bit infamous for failing, leaving only high speed operation thereafter.

Yes, the slots for the locking tools on the ends of the camshafts are not central. The locking tools only fit and are able to be screwed in properly when they're at the compression stroke TDC. Off the top of my head I can't recall if that's with slots horizontal and above centreline of camshaft, or below. A quick look at the actual or pics of the locking tools should reveal which it is.

No, it was in early 2021.

I would certainly expect radiator fan action in that case. May be able to offer fuse info tomorrow, but hopefully covered in owner's manual.

Is the 115 definitely coolant temperature rather than oil temperature?

One question that's puzzling me slightly. If the indicated temperature is 90, what makes you think the engine is overheating? Is there loss of coolant? Some external temperature measurement method?

Can you see how many wires go into the central (motor) part of the fan? 2, 3, more? If it's three, that would suggest it's the relatively simple two-speed fan design whose low speed may have failed, leaving just the full speed option. May need a phone camera operated 'blind' to investigate wiring, and definitely best attempted when engine is off and cold.

It varies, but the last one I bought was £290 delivered, with just 16k miles on it. Most will probably cost a bit more. 😁

I'll start a message exchange with you, you'll be able to reply. 🙂

Home now, so could look stuff up.