Breezy_Pete

Can you please share the reg plate or VIN with me so that I can look up the relevant schematics and parts info. I think the two fans should probably operate together, but need to check.

They don't lead to the same place. You can see everything that's available in "individual vehicle info" without paying the flat rate, so have a look first and note which files you want. Only after you pay the flat rate do the download buttons appear for each pdf. The tab you were in is a subset of the other, showing only the info specific to your car/VIN. The place with the pdfs covers every car of each model, so the documents are much bigger, more general and require a bit more effort with 'ctrl-f' to find stuff specific to your car. No idea about your last question, I haven't tried it.

If you did not find a broken wire in the location I described then my idea is not correct. Engine ECUs are incredibly reliable in recent cars. Very, very unlikely to be that.

I think you were not in the same area of the site as I described above. You can't download stuff you find via the "vehicle specific info" tab. Everything in the tab I suggested is pdf files.

Were the files that you downloaded in pdf form? I've never had trouble. Once you're in and paid up for your hour, just go to "Individual vehicle information" tab, then pick "repair info" for workshop documents or "training items" for the Self Study Programmes, then drill down the various menu levels 'til you find what you want, and download the pdfs.

Tell me one or other of them.

Need to know reg or VIN, in order to fully identify the gearbox, the oil that goes in it, and the drain/fill info.

Hi Teddy, thanks for posting. It used to be a bit easier, as newly signed-up people could send private messages, but that seems to have gone with the recent forum software update. Now you have to make a number of posts before PM'ing becomes possible. I see you managed to track down my email address that lurks in my profile; well done. I'm probably going to become a forum sponsor in the very near future, which will allow me to advertise my services and contact details more obviously. 🙂

Look for a broken wire just outside cable entry of starter solenoid connector.

There's a strong possibility that the relevant wire has broken, in the bellows where the wiring enters the tailgate.

All of the thinner wires are 0.5mm sq. cross sectional area or less. The largest pair are 1.5mm sq. I think. Complete removal of door is surprisingly easy to greatly improve access. Needs an assistant to help lifting off and refitting though. Having said all that, the wiring between window switch and window motor probably goes direct, within the main bit of the door loom, rather than going to the 28-way connector at A-pillar. What colours are the broken wires? Photo?

@26DIPP the BCM is somewhat involved with electric windows on a 2013 car, I think. I believe it has LIN bus connectivity with them, and may even be the LIN master controller, not sure. Pre-March 2010 mk2s didn't have that LIN connection, only between the two or four window motors themselves.

All relevant ETKA parts diagrams can be found here by seeking out the pages with BTS in the titles: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts How bad is the leak? Photos? How many miles has the engine done? It's a pretty grim job to remove the cam carrier and re-seal it (RTV sealant not a gasket), I think. Cams come away with it, which means you have to take timing chain off first, which is a big job with locking tools and removal of timing case cover. If DIYing it'll challenge you unless you are very well tooled up and experienced. If thinking of getting a garage involved, expect a hefty bill. Consider checking/replacing some of the ancillaries that might be resulting in higher crankcase pressure than designed, such as the PCV valve and oil separator, both mounted in the top of the timing cover. If either of those is definitely not working well, the leak might be reduced considerably by sorting those instead of taking the engine almost completely apart.

@AGFalco^ makes me want one just like that. If circumstances change and you want to sell, please let me know. 😁

From underside, unplug the big 4-way connector from the fan control module (hanging off bracket on nearside chassis leg). Link smaller contacts of loom connector to test (just) fan's low speed function. Link wider connections to test high speed.

Here you go.

Yes. Or reg number. Tomorrow though.

Oh, that's good. Look to see what it reads after the engine has been running for 5 and 10 minutes, just in case the temperature sensor is giving implausible readings. Also have a look at what bank 1 sensor 2 is doing, measuring block 36 or somewhere round there.

Do you have access to a scan tool that can read coolant temperature in real time?

Which oxygen sensor did the fault code indicate, and which did you change? Both are bank 1, there's bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2? Top of cat or after? Do you have a record of that fault code somewhere? Have the spark plugs been looked at or changed since purchase? Does the car have a coolant temperature gauge?

The radiator thermoswitches almost never fail on A/C cars, cos they're only carrying relay coil current of the fan control module's relays, not fan current, so I think that would be wasted cash. Check for broken wires near to its connector though, and test fan itself via this linking of loom connector:

See the 17 words I typed a few posts above here, which will answer your question, if you wish. 🙂

All the fan-related fuses are above the battery, three in total. Like this, but you won't have 6 and 12, at least: At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working. A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead. One or two rad fans?

With A/C it's easy to check rad fan(s). Switch it on and demand coldest air with bonnet open and expect to see fan action almost immediately (ambient temp dependent) with fan at low speed. If it/they come on and sound fast and furious that's probably full speed, indicating that low speed has failed. If no fan action at all check fuses. Chain timing check can be done without opening timing cover, fortunately, 'cos that's not an easy job at all. Put no.1 cylinder at TDC by poking something down plug hole, then remove two small covers from gearbox end of cam cover. Should see slot in ends of cams that are parallel to each other (always) and parallel to HG (at TDC). How many miles has it done?

I misunderstood, a bit. Didn't realise you were looking for a mk1 with the most possible issues. 😆 Check chain timing and radiator fan function as priorities, I suggest. Does/did it have A/C? I certainly wouldn't expect engine cover or ECU to be particularly hot, in normal working.