Breezy_Pete

Clout = hit enthusiastically.

Probably worth clouting the door near lock whilst trying, for added chances of something moving. 🤞

No harm in trying higher voltage, especially if you disconnect those wires from anything but the lock motor. Nothing to lose.

If you meant exactly 12V or thereabouts, maybe worth trying 15 or 16?

Follow it to see what it goes to at the other end? One thing's for sure, it's a source of filtered fresh air, not vacuum, for something, if coming from the airbox. Leave it disconnected but open.

Just do it by feel then. Doubt it matters much.

Borrow another torque wrench to compare.

The three studs coming down off the manicat? M10 I think, but M8 will probably do.

You may have to remove the connector to look between it and the board surface. Easier to just try another motor module if you can find one at a reasonable price.

I believe you that the LIN is working that far, but there is the adaptor part which that connector plugs onto, which itself then plugs onto the circuitboard-mounted connector, all of which may have corrosion or loose connections. Here's one where I have repaired track breaks under the connector (the black stuff visible each side is lacquer covering board surface repairs). Usually it is the door open signal that seems to be worst affected by corrosion under that connector body, but other points of failure can easily occur if sufficient moisture accumulates there. If you decide to remove the board for examination, be careful to 'help' it out by pushing the left edge of that connector with a small screwdriver or similar, to help the board come with the motor housing after undoing the 4 Torx Tx20 screws. Otherwise you may easily damage the motor brushes.

LIN communication further into the passenger side module must be damaged somehow. Condensation can get under the circuitboard-mounted male connector and corrode tracks. Try a different passenger side motor.

On a 2012 Roomster 1.2 TSI but probably widespread amongst other models, hence posting here. How do you get these fasteners off, please? Want to buzz out some wiring and can't get ECU connectors out until these are undone.

Personally, I find the wiring diagrams invaluable for helping me and others solve electrical problems on their cars. It's not part of my day job, no.

Think of another component like manual gearbox oil, a fuel pump, or a petrol fuel filter and you'll find the same absence from any service schedule. They've just taken it a step further and washed their hands of advising on cambelts on these petrol models in some markets.

Assumptions...

You can download any you wish, or all, from erWin Skoda, for only 7 Euro plus tax.

Show me such a bit of circuitry on a Skoda 12V socket wiring diagram and I'll learn something. Until then I will not expect what you claim to be of relevance, sorry.

On Citigo it's fed by a relay. Other makes not hugely relevant.

Citigo only, AFAIK.

Not on any Skoda wiring diagram I've seen. Mythology I think.

Suit yourself, but I'm pretty sure you're guessing and wrong on this.

There will be nothing but fuses.

I'd defer to @Carlston and other owners of similar cars on that one.

Predictably, in partslink24, your VIN suggests rear spring part number 3Q0 511 115 AJ as quoted by other look-ups. The relevant PR-code is 0YC, which is confirmed in your build sheet "Weight range 3". The other PR code related to rear suspension is 1JP, but I think that's for the shocks.

Not a problem to post it really, but I'll start a conversation with you privately and you should be able to reply to that with VIN.