Breezy_Pete

From underside, unplug the big 4-way connector from the fan control module (hanging off bracket on nearside chassis leg). Link smaller contacts of loom connector to test (just) fan's low speed function. Link wider connections to test high speed.

Here you go.

Yes. Or reg number. Tomorrow though.

Oh, that's good. Look to see what it reads after the engine has been running for 5 and 10 minutes, just in case the temperature sensor is giving implausible readings. Also have a look at what bank 1 sensor 2 is doing, measuring block 36 or somewhere round there.

Do you have access to a scan tool that can read coolant temperature in real time?

Which oxygen sensor did the fault code indicate, and which did you change? Both are bank 1, there's bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2? Top of cat or after? Do you have a record of that fault code somewhere? Have the spark plugs been looked at or changed since purchase? Does the car have a coolant temperature gauge?

The radiator thermoswitches almost never fail on A/C cars, cos they're only carrying relay coil current of the fan control module's relays, not fan current, so I think that would be wasted cash. Check for broken wires near to its connector though, and test fan itself via this linking of loom connector:

See the 17 words I typed a few posts above here, which will answer your question, if you wish. 🙂

All the fan-related fuses are above the battery, three in total. Like this, but you won't have 6 and 12, at least: At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working. A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead. One or two rad fans?

With A/C it's easy to check rad fan(s). Switch it on and demand coldest air with bonnet open and expect to see fan action almost immediately (ambient temp dependent) with fan at low speed. If it/they come on and sound fast and furious that's probably full speed, indicating that low speed has failed. If no fan action at all check fuses. Chain timing check can be done without opening timing cover, fortunately, 'cos that's not an easy job at all. Put no.1 cylinder at TDC by poking something down plug hole, then remove two small covers from gearbox end of cam cover. Should see slot in ends of cams that are parallel to each other (always) and parallel to HG (at TDC). How many miles has it done?

I misunderstood, a bit. Didn't realise you were looking for a mk1 with the most possible issues. 😆 Check chain timing and radiator fan function as priorities, I suggest. Does/did it have A/C? I certainly wouldn't expect engine cover or ECU to be particularly hot, in normal working.

Big day planned for tomorrow. Refurbed injectors and a much lower-mileage high-pressure fuel pump getting swapped in, I hope. Also the cam follower for the HPFP, unless the original looks much better than expected for nigh-on 160k miles. The company that cleaned and tested the replacement injectors very helpfully also changed the PTFE seals and the o-rings at the top, so should be reasonably idiot-proof to fit. 🙂 Anyone swapped out these items? HPFP has to come off to get injector rail out, so looked into that too, and picked up a far lower mileage one from ebay, for not a lot of money. Apparently the cam follower can get worn to the point of perforating, so I picked up a Febi one of those for not much over £20 via amazon.

If you let me know reg or VIN, I can look up what was fitted at factory.

There must be lots of much better ones to be found.

Scrap it, do yourself a favour.

The Octy probably doesn't have a clutch. Just a shear plate. I'd guess that the Fabia has two electrical connectors, the Octy just one?

Look up anything and everything here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

Fuel pumps in cars have their intake sprung against the bottom of the tank, so they suck up whatever is there, irrespective of fuel level. Amazing how few people understand this.

Something that sometimes bears fruit is to look at ebay listings for any given engine code. In this case probably best if they include gearbox too; but there are usually decent photos taken from all directions around the engine, so often can be helpful in finding locations. As you say though, de-cluttering the engine bay by removing relatively easy things like air pipes and airbox often opens up vastly improved visibility and access. I'll give ebay a go and let you know if I find anything.

Finally defeated the ECU anti-tamper bracket yesterday afternoon, so that I could get in and check continuity/shorts for the oxygen sensor wiring. Since almost day one of our ownership, stubborn lambda sensor faults pop up putting on the emissions light. Both sensors replaced with good quality items, and no wiring issues discovered yesterday. Hoping it turns out to be injector related, as claimed by the garage the previous owner used. I'm not sure how they came to that conclusion, but they claimed a couple of injectors were leaking, apparently. I've (cheaply) acquired a set from a much lower mileage 1.2 TSI, and had them cleaned and tested by a localish outfit that I trust. Should be swapping those in next week I hope.

I'm not sure what the grease type is that's inside them, let me know if you find out, please. erWin Skoda is very good value. You can buy 1 hour of access which includes ability to download pdfs of all kinds of info. 7 Euro plus tax. Once you have registered, logged in and paid the "flat rate", go to individual vehicle info tab.

Measure at the connector for the motor with ignition switched on, to be sure that 12V is actually getting to that pin of the connector where the black/blue wire goes. You said you had checked/tested all the wires from motor to 28-way, but that was with incorrect circuit info.

Yes.

Try the other end. Possibly a LHD-biased handbook.

This should match what you have. You can see that fuse 11 does matter here.