Breezy_Pete

That's the next generation wiring diagram, from March 2010. No LIN connection to BCM on previous one, like yours, or the one before. So BCM isn't relevant. Fuse 11 checked? That wire isn't on your diagrams. Will add correct diagram shortly.

Check fuse #11, which supplies that ignition switched 12V to wake the motor.

Repair all broken wires and check from 28-way connector at hinges to window motor connector, referring to circuit diagram.

The wire that might be broken supplies an ignition switched 12V to a thin black/blue wire going to the motor connector. When you work them by the key, this ignition switched 12V isn't required.

Have you checked for broken wires in the door loom, under the rubber cover in the door hinge area?

I see, you are in a country where you drive on the right hand side of the road. So 6Q2... instead of 6Q1... Both motors same part number?

Dremmeled slots in them and used a big flat screwdriver.

Sorry, I was working on one of our cars. I meant the part number on the outside of the motor, 6Q1959801F, I think for those two cars?

What year is the car? Mk2 Fabia had at least three different types of window motor depending on year. None of them can be coded. The window switches work by shorting the inputs of the module to earth, mostly via resistors, but directly in one position, so I can't see how you would do damage. Was/is the one you've swapped in identical in appearance and part number? What is or isn't currently working?

Engine bay fuse 9, I suspect. Seems you do have the telephone preparation package, according to car data. "Telephone/telematics 9ZG - preperation [sic] for mobile phone with hands-free system" Not sure how you'd go about uninstalling/deleting that, but you could try simply removing that fuse and seeing if that causes anything else to stay awake. "Whack-a-mole" springs to mind. 😆

What fuse number is this 5 Amp 'phone' fuse? Glad they sorted a fully working alt for you. 🙂

Hi Loek. I can't really add anything that I haven't said above; circuit section is shown below, T4bl is described as "4-pin connector, in the holder on the gearbox (black)".

There are no other relays; and as I said, none involved in starter motor operation. Solenoid power comes direct from the ignition switch, a red/black wire.

OK, a 1.4 16V petrol. Yours probably has a combined engine cover/air filter rather than the silly cone filter in this image, and it may be easier to see where you need to if you remove that engine cover, but that may not be necessary. Look vertically downward, preferably with a torch, in the area where the orange ring is, trying to see something similar to the image I posted above, possibly with a wire floating around loose.

This is usually a broken starter solenoid wire. They break just outside the cable entry point of the connector. Smallest wire going to starter motor. More visible on some engine types than others. Which do you have?

What problem are you trying to solve? There isn't a relay in the starter motor circuit, I don't think. More information about the car would be useful, whatever the issue; VIN or reg ideally, but at least engine type.

Phoning is better than the public facing web interface; real humans can look stuff up via other routes, like I just did. Right rear wheel speed sensor for your car has genuine part number WHT 003 858, and the relevant PR-code is 1X0.

Phone them with reg and ask. If they can't tell you which is correct, go to a different vendor. I can look up a genuine part number if you tell me reg or VIN, and which corner you need.

It might be that there is a setting somewhere that has accidentally been switched to 'don't display washer reservoir low level warning'? I know in some much earlier Skodas you can change the coding (with VCDS) of the instrument cluster to include/exclude such warning info. That sort of software switching is presumably possible via user interface on current models?

I don't see anything in the PR code list that really gives a clue one way or the other, although it does say without headlight washers, which might be one reason for omission. Parts list suggests 5E3 955 448 A for the reservoir bottle, which appears to include the level sensor as standard. Pics in an ebay listing for that PN show it just to the right of the washer pump motor connector on the rear-facing side. Taking a few screws out of the front part of the NSF wheel arch liner may give enough visibilty to check presence/absence. Example listing/pics: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376100484562

@andypollard, if you let me know your VIN I may be able to find out if your car was built with this level sensing or not.

Given that a new genuine cooler is lots of cash, and even a pattern part is over a hundred, I'd be tempted to raid scrapyards/ebay for a 2nd hand 03L131512B and try your luck. Probably DIY fit-able? Then do a coolant drain and flush and see if that clears stuff out.

Sorry, think I've misunderstood that. You mean the heater matrix seems clogged?

I guess the soot is coming from the leaking cooler, out of the now open coolant connections? Maybe good to get a replacement on there soonish to eliminate that. Trying to think of a safe way of blanking them off, but hot exhaust gases will need something metallic and robust.

If that's what you've bypassed and it's now OK, then you've done a good diagnostic test with a good outcome. No problem driving the car like it is until you can get a new cooler on there, I believe.