varaderoguy

We are missing a scan. Is the OP able to get a scan done of the car, because rough running like that will cause the car to trigger a code - showing the problem.

okay - honestly not what I've experienced. As previously stated, I've recently had to change out two batteries on two MK3's - a 2015 non FL and a 2019/20 FL. In both cases, the BMS just sat there - and the alternator refused to charge the battery.....and that happened over a period of 20 mins or so. New EFM/AFM matting stop/start batteries will generally come with 60% charge from the shop and you will never get a stop/start battery to charge over 80% anyway and that if you don't code in a battery, then the alterator will not behave in a normal manner and won't charge up the battery. So I am advocating that you risk the BMS getting confused and (clearing up my wording) - you may be left with warning lights (again experienced with another member who asked me to change out their battery - and we watched their [Fabia] get terribly confused over the battery change with no coding. I suppose that if the BMS relearning it profile, then that's a win for all concerned. For stability though, always code in a battery.

Have you checked the backing plate to your disc brakes? They tend to rot out and end up scraping on the disc causing a scraping sound.

Hold on a second. Unless I am missing something here - I am advocating that you DO (i.e. positive) code in a new battery. I never said not to code in a new battery.

Not untrue and not scaremongering. For a VAG vehicle that you don't update the BMS info for a new battery, the alternator will just sit there at 12.2V and not correctly charge at 14V. I've replaced two batteries on two Skodas recently (a 2015 and a 2019) - and both followed that methodology. Ultimately, the car will do one of two things; either throw an alternator charging error or just run down the battery to an unusable value.

It needs to be coded into the car. As such, until that is done, the alternator won't charge and you will be left with warning lights. Find somebody with ODBEleven or VCDS (genuine) local to you. Details are on this forum.

I'm wondering if the BCM is confused due an electrical short. If water leaks from the washer sprayer due to a split hose or something similar, then that would collect at the bottom of the boot, and splash all over connections inside the boot. This would potentially fry some of the drivers in the BCM or just cause random electronic shorts. Either way, you either have to clean up all the connector and/or replace the hardware. I'm not sure that grabbing the appropriate config from a BCM that is potentially corrupt is the way forward. You might need to get Skoda to recode it for you from factory defaults. 😞

Good posting. Make sure that the HALDEX gearbox service has also been recently done too (its only £150 - not terrible if you need it doing). Make sure you get yourself an ODBEleven dongle though - generic dongles not good for VAG cars!

Eyks - that's never good. Was there a test to see if the pump was still good (i.e. did somebody test out the clutch engagement solinoid on the HALDEX gearbox) before handing it back to you?

So in that case, somebody didn't do the procedure of removing the outer fill plug when the DSG gearbox is between 36-42C - because if they had done, it would have probably dropped out a load of excess fluid. A DQ250 box uses 5.2L of DSG transmission fluid and a DQ381 box uses 6L of DSG transmission fluid. I wonder if too much fluid was put into a DQ250 box, because they misread the fluid levels for a DQ381 box.

Just a horrible thought here. Was the rear diff serviced recently or the Haldex serviced recently? It is relatively easy to mix up the Haldex and rear diff refill holes and it is not unknown for the rear diff to fail due to Haldex oil being put in and vice versa. See other threads on this:

Its worth checking out: https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall to see if your car has any outstanding recalls. A phonecall to the service department of your local Skoda dealer will also confirm if this is the case.

One lesser known trick with the Skoda DSG gearboxes is to make sure that the acceleration is set up in Audi model as opposed to Skoda/VW mode. It adjusts the acceleration profile and IMHO stops the engine fighting with the gearbox. It adjusts the acceleration profile to be linear (Audi) instead of logarithmic (Skoda/VW). Done this on all my previous DAG Cars and they have super smooth engine/gearbox action now.

Yes....its a flaw in right hand drive Octavia's.... 1) Unlock the car manually using the driver side door key lock. 2) Car alarm goes off. 3) Plug in a 12v battery pack into the battery lighter. 4) Switch on ignition, but don't start. 5) Unlock the car using the unlock button in the centre console. 6) Open passenger door and bonnet and replace battery as appropriate.

DSG clutch packs do need replacing. Depending on the previous owner, it might be worn causing this condition. DQ200 boxes are generally okay. Make sure your car is not scheduled in for the DQ200 recall and ideally make sure that you get the fluid changes (even though its a sealed box for life).

Welcome to the forum @SteveStreet. Its worth checking the car over and its also worth getting an ODBEleven dongle so that you can properly query the car and find out what its unhappy about. I would be checking: EGR valve isn't blocked up with soot. When was the last time you had the sparkplugs done (thinking misfires / failing coils) Try running a tank of super unleaded through the car and take it for a sprited run. Other things that I'm also thinking: Can you listen in neutral at idle and listen for any metalic clanking sound? If's that so, it will be a Dual Mass Flywheel beginning to fail. Whilst the DQ200 box (6 or 7 speed) - is generally a good box, make sure there isn't any recalls and whilst it is meant to be a "sealed for life" box, get the oil and filter changed on it. Also check the fluid pressures on the box (DSG boxes are very sensitive to low fluid conditions)

I would check the calculated soot mass in the DPF. If the car is detecting excessive backpressure or high soot in the DPF, it will try to keep trying to do a regen. If the DPF is blocked then the car will struggle and fuel consumption will be high. The car should have probably thrown a code and therefore it is worth getting a ODBEleven dongle or (genuine) VCDS to read the codes and make sure the car is not unhappy in someway.

Its really recommended to use screen wash and not just water in your screen wash bottle. It stops bacterial growth as well as keeps the nozzle jets clean of dirt. Make sure you also have your mesh screen in the top of the filler cap/keep it clean.

Generally agree. Roughly once every tank of fuel but it always depends on your driving style and where you are driving. If you use basic diesel fuel, it is worth either putting in some super diesel to keep the EGR and DPF in good condition or use a small amount of cetane improver in your fuel (improves burn cycle, keeps EGR/DPF clean and better mpg)

Fair point. That should have been brake cleaner.

Okay - couple of things to check. Did you recently replace the battery? If so, you need to recalibrate the electric windows. Press and hold down each window for 5 secs to allow the window position calibrate - do it for the top and bottom positions. Do this for all 4 windows. Blow any dust out of the infrared sensors in the ceiling too.

Just as an aside, I've found a GREAT source of genuine VW Spares and Quantum 5W30 oil. CEAutomotive do a great VAG service kit - for £137 all in - genuine parts and oil. e.g. for TDI 2.0 cars: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165567211852 Ping them to make sure the bits fit your car before ordering and provide your registration plate.

TDI's can be oil burners....just make sure that you carry around 1L of 5W/30 around with you at all times and check the oil weekly. Can be either piston ring related or head gasket related. Up to you on whether you fix it or live with it.

oh heck - I hope you haven't suffered from the "Bag of Death" inside the header tank - i.e. its split and got into the cooling system. If so, you need to pressurise flush your cooling system until all the silicon has been flushed out, then refill with G12Evo.

1) On Facelifted MK3's, no - you cannot disable the auto-stop/start by coding. 2) Depending on your model, it is possible to either adjust the soundicator via the MIB system or if it isn't present there, you will need VCDS/ODBEleven to code it in or out (increase or decrease the volume) as appropriate. FYI - it sounds rubbish, don't bother....leave it off!