varaderoguy

Always type in "Ross-Tech and then the code" to get some useful assistance. Try this posting: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/19480/

Err...no, that's not what was asked. Check the battery voltage and do a CCA EN test to check whether the battery is failing on you. Anything below 20% of the CCA EN value of the battery...it's failing and needs replacing.

You are right, MP3 Tags are not used to order the tracks. Good practice is to name the files 01-xxx, 02-xxx etc etc.

Nothing to worry about here. What I heard was the ignition being switched on and the high pressure fuel pump pressuring prior to a start. If you have a long crank time, then thats a different problem. We need a full code scan of the car to help further, but I would ask the following questions: 1) Service history? When was it last serviced? 2) If you've changed the battery, how do you know its charging? Did you code in the new battery correctly? 3) A long crank will throw a code - crank position sensor / cam position sensor failing? 4) Fuel - bad fuel? Can you tell us if its a TDI or TSI?

If the little black circles are there, then yes, assuming you have the original MIB system in the car, you should be able to switch the sensors on/off as appropriate. Its should be called Rear Park Assist. The best way to test it; ignition on, engine off, select reverse. if you wonder behind the car, you should hear bleeps coming from the rear car speakers. Failing that, make sure you don't have any errors on the car (e.g. the sensors have failed/been disconnected).

This will probably be a master or slave cylinder failing internally. Unless you've had a catastrophic failure of the release thrust baring, it is unlikely to be a gearbox out job. However, if it is, then please replace the clutch and release baring whilst you are there!

A good first step - would be to go find some Super Diesel and fill up the tank. Then do a long and fast run with the car and then see if this improves the performance and stops the constant re-gen that is potentially happening. The super diesel will also help clean out the EGR and any gunk in the injectors too.

The DSG service is a good shout. There seems to be a problem with Skoda/VW/Audi underfilling the gearbox oil (two 2019/2020 cars with both the same issue - poor clutch plate pressure and whining DSG oil pump). Get it done properly. £330 was what West End Skoda charged me. I know that DQ381 box has an 80k service schedule....I would never leave it that long. At 40k, the oil is trashed (ask me how I know this). Would find a good VAG Independent and get them to do it....plus your service too if they can. There are certain things I have to use the dealers for, but when my second service is used up, I'm outta there for servicing at the dealership. Poor service and ridiculous upselling (e.g. you need new brakes that will cost you 420+VAT....Brakes and pads have no wear on them at all!!!!).

Yes, confirmed....the convenience window option sometimes needs recalibrating; especially after a battery change. If calibration is also not done; the alarm will also not work properly.

What worries me slightly about this whole thread so far (Pages 1-4) - seems to be the lack of either a compression or relative compression test having being done on any of these engines. As the 1.4 is a direct injection, the valves do seem to get covered up in crud more often. So - thinking about this logically; I think first of all; the ECM is slightly crying wolf re: misfires. A lot of the misfires and misfire counters were reading single digit misfire counters. That's probably an overly sensitive piece of software at play here. Second; if you start getting errors on multiple cylinders from nowhere, that means you've got a problem with either fuel/fuel pressure. The likelihood of multiple coil packs failing all at once is vanishingly small. Third; some of those pictures of the valves look horrible. Assume those are exhaust valve pics as opposed to intake. I also saw a picture of one of the the injectors. Anyhow, one of the posters said that his mechanic said take the car on a high-speed brisk run; problem went away for a week or two, then came back. Its an issue; people want to save fuel and running costs think that by running engines kindly, it will save their fuel costs/costs of running the car etc. This does not apply in VAG world. Every single VAG engine I've ever seen/owned as always benefited from being driven hard. Its the German way.... I would run several tanks of Super Unleaded through these cars engines as a first port of call to try clean up the EGR/valves and add some weights to your right feet. That means hard acceleration and progressive braking at least once a week. If your car is only used for short/in-town journeys, take it on some fast roads and keep it going for at least 100miles. Do this at least once a month.

Yes, linkages on non-FL cars can be a problem. I am surprise that you didn't get the linkage sorted out before migrating to a new gearbox. Second gear and Reverse are always a bit harsh. I got my manual cars of that era - tweaked at 30000 miles and gearbox oil changed out at 35000 miles. This did improve responsiveness, but I agree with Blue - that you cannot rush the gearboxes.

You need to go to the Skoda dealership for this; Component Protection is to stop stolen units from being put into other cars. You will need to go (with proof of ownership) and a receipt of the new unit (from somewhere reputable). Skoda dealers will only undo component protection after they have this information.

I think the auto-adjustment system or the hand-brake rachet mechanism sounds as though it has an issue.

Most gremlins like that are mostly Earthing Point issues or battery problems. If the battery CCA is okay (anything less than 20% less than battery capacity is an issue), I would also check the alternator output too. Software updates for Mk3/MK4 are done when the car is in for service. Ask to make sure that all the software updates are done (and make sure they are applied across all modules too - partial updates break things).

Its usually caused by a compromised / failing Park Position sensor that fails. Not an unknown fault, but it does happen. One of two options: its the park shift lever position sensor that failed (about £75 + labour) or the Clutch position sensor (will throw a P1735/P1736 error) - which require a new component on the Mechantonics unit (about £500) to be replaced - clutch sensor fault.

It does sounds like you have a module / modules that aren't going to sleep here....and this is obviously upsetting the car and activating the alarm. Soooo.....I think you need to do two things: 1) Open up the bonnet, latch it, get an amp-clamp multimeter and let the car go to sleep (give it 10-15 mins), then check the current being pulled. If its more than 16-25mA, you've got a problem. Its then a case of trying to find out what is faulty. Try using one of these: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/multifunction-testers/2003704 to check the current across each fuse. Find the module that isn't going to sleep. 2) Blow out any dust in the ultrasonic sensors above the driver's head (where the sunglasses / sunroof switches are) - not a common problem in MK3, more a MK2 issue, but worth doing. re: Head unit switching itself on/off. Sounds like a its potentially got an issue. If its one of the touch button screens, make sure that any residual finger grease is not causing issues

Stupid question: assume you used genuine cylinder head VAG product? For things like this; I won't touch non-OEM hardware.

Other than a slight exhaust blow, that all sounds fine.

I'm fairly sure that if you have a Swing unit, you cannot get Apple Carplay or Android Auto to work on those. They are SUPER basic devices. You would probably need to upgrade to a Bolero unit to get that functionality.

Yes, agree with everyone else. It will be condensate from the HVAC unit. Check the coolant levels (when cold), brake fluid and oil too, but if they are all normal, you are all good.

You can determine if you have failing piston rings by doing a relative compression test. Some TDI's are terrible oil burners; others are just fine. I think it comes down to how folk run-in their TDI engines from new. IMHO, the TDI block needs gently worn in (I've had TDI's going back Euro3,4,5 and 6, 6a) and they all are very 'tight' when new. I've found that they really need an intermediate oil change at 5000 miles and regular oil changes every 8,000-10,0000miles to keep things sweet. All my cars that I took on from new had this - and none of them burned oil. However, typically the consumption you mention is very high. Yes, get the DPF cleaned out (which will help the back-pressure of the exhaust and slightly reduce the internal crank pressure) and get that block pressure tested to make sure that you don't have any blow-by. Also get your mechanic to check each bore for scoring (i.e. really bad news) - which cannot be fixed (unless you get your engine relined - expensive - cheaper to get new engine).

Nope....not true. If you look at Ross-tech's battery change webpage http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement you will see there are about 4 different ways depending on the age and type of hardware in your car. There are also about 10 different types of battery system as well to choose from. And never put in a random serial number. It poor practice.

There are three variables. They are all in 09 Central Electronics. 10-Variations and search for Battery. Now look at Battery Manufacturer: Set this to VA0 (otherwise the alternator won't kick in), set the Ah to 70 and the battery type to EFB.

Quick check - can you check to make sure that you have all doors for open on the MIB system? Otherwise, you press once and only the driver door opens, press again and all doors should open.

Its a USB2.0 port -The USB 2.0 specification allows Hosts to deliver 5V at 500 mA, for a total power output of 2.5 watts.